Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

Started Mar 3, 2010 | Discussions
OP charley5 Senior Member • Posts: 1,170
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

I've heard of the software. I will look into it. thanks for the sample!

OP charley5 Senior Member • Posts: 1,170
Re: The best way to get most out of B&W images from a Foveon imager

Nice! thanks Laurence. This is definitely helpful. I see that there is much flexibility in getting the look I want!

OP charley5 Senior Member • Posts: 1,170
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

Nice, I will check this info out too!

Mark Turney
Mark Turney Senior Member • Posts: 1,924
Laurence method compared to my old method....

Tell me which one you like best and for what reason(s), please:

I don't want to influence the results; so, I will hold the legend until a few more postings.

Thanks in advance for your input :)!

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SigmaChrome Veteran Member • Posts: 9,476
Re: Laurence method compared to my old method....

Mark,

The highlights are blown in No.1. No.2 is far more pleasing and has a greater tonal range.
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Vitée

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Filmophile Regular Member • Posts: 305
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

I just bought a Tamron SP 17mm 151B which is famed for its built in bilters for b/w photography....I'll be giving those a try soon, thanks for the 'red' tip (though that would probably have been my first choice)

Mark Turney
Mark Turney Senior Member • Posts: 1,924
Re: Laurence method compared to my old method....

Thanks for playing Vitée. After a few more guess postings, I'll tell everyone which one is which.

SigmaChrome wrote:

Mark,

The highlights are blown in No.1. No.2 is far more pleasing and has a greater tonal range.
--
Regards,

Vitée

Capture all the light and colour!

http://www.pbase.com/vitee/galleries

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Truman Prevatt
Truman Prevatt Veteran Member • Posts: 6,525
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

Filters will have the same (or close to the same) effect as they would on film. First however you need to understand what light source illuminates an image. On a sunny day, the bright areas are illuminated by the sun or white light. The shadows, however, are illuminated by sky light which is mostly blue.

On the front of a camera with B&W film filters on the yellow side - will reduce the amount of blue light. They will darken skies, increase the contrast in clouds and increase the contrast in the mid tones (mixtures of sky and sun light). On from yellow toward red this effect will become more and more dramatic as a red filter only passes red light.

Another thing to think about is your gamma. I have found that B&W conversions tend to be wimpy in the in the local contrast in the mid tones. By adjusting your gamma - you can put a lot more drama in your mid tones.

Another thing to remember by B&W conversion is not every color image is a good candidate for B&W conversion. You not only need to hone your technical skills you need to hone you eye for B&W. This not only means in the selection of the images you chose for conversion - it starts when you take the image. You need to start by taking images that will have a punch in B&W.

In the old days you could buy a "B&W viewing filter" - I still have one around somewhere. You hold it to your eye and it shows you how an image would appear in B&W. The world does look different when you remove color. Find the image that says what you want starts when you make the image selection. The filters are just fine tweaking.

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JLK Veteran Member • Posts: 4,486
Ditto

I like 2 better---more contrast, less blown highlights.

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Jim

carlos roncatti
carlos roncatti Senior Member • Posts: 2,662
Nice tip....

thanks.....

JohnLindroth wrote:

I've used this technique on some images. You can also add a levels layer, and the set the range of values to output 0 on green and blue to isolate the red channel (= red filter). Put back blue to get a yellow filter. You don't need to put the output on those layers completely to 0, which gives you different amounts of filtering. You need to add a saturation layer above this to go to greyscale, then another levels layer above to increase the levels back to normal range.

If possible, I like to do most of the work in SPP with sat=-2, since I like to get as much of the results straight from raw, when possible.

-John

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self portrait:

Think about photography books and classes before any kind of gear....without knowledge, no camera is useful....
Slide geral:
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Carlos Roncatti Bomfim

Mark Turney
Mark Turney Senior Member • Posts: 1,924
Re: Nice tip....

2 is indeed the Laurence methods. I like #2 better also - greater tonal range and the sharpness is also more pleasant to my eyes (less crunchy ). I used my old method of processing a color image in SPP, then B&W conversion in Ps, then sharpening with high-pass on #1. #2 was processed as LM suggested.

MT

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Gyruss New Member • Posts: 1
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

Turning colour pictures into B&W ones tend to make them a little washy. I use a little and free image program called Irfanview. What ever program you use if you reduce the gamma slightly the picture will begin to look like how you want them. So first change to monoichromne and then reduce the gamma to make them mor monochrome like.
Gyruss

Truman Prevatt
Truman Prevatt Veteran Member • Posts: 6,525
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?
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Mark Turney
Mark Turney Senior Member • Posts: 1,924
Re: Best way to get most out of B&W images on SD14?

Very good article Truman - thanks for sharing :).

Truman Prevatt wrote:

Interestingly enough this was in the newest photonet newsletter

http://photo.net/learn/digital-photography-workflow/advanced-photoshop-tutorials/converting-to-black-and-white/

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JohnLindroth Senior Member • Posts: 2,727
Re: Sharpening - this is why I keep reading this forum

Thanks Laurence.

I always look forward to the little bits of stuff like this, that can make real differences in my photo processing.

Thanks again,

-John

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Mark Turney
Mark Turney Senior Member • Posts: 1,924
Re: Sharpening - this is why I keep reading this forum

I agree John - it's the little tidbits that can make a difference. I don't know about you; but, I've been shooting (non-pro) for 9+ years, and still learn something new just about every day ;).

JohnLindroth wrote:

Thanks Laurence.

I always look forward to the little bits of stuff like this, that can make real differences in my photo processing.

Thanks again,

-John

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JohnLindroth Senior Member • Posts: 2,727
Re: Sharpening - this is why I keep reading this forum

True. I've been trying to push myself recently - and the biggest part I need to work on right now is to get out with the camera and shoot. I find my photos get better with higher file numbers

One suggestion I found recommended online was that if you spend time each day as a photographer doing these 2 things, the quality of your photos will go up 300% in the year. Those are 1. taking pictures 2. studying a master photographers images. I've been trying that - but it's not so easy. Probably spending less time in this forum would help...

-John

Mark Turney wrote:

I agree John - it's the little tidbits that can make a difference. I don't know about you; but, I've been shooting (non-pro) for 9+ years, and still learn something new just about every day ;).

JohnLindroth wrote:

Thanks Laurence.

I always look forward to the little bits of stuff like this, that can make real differences in my photo processing.

Thanks again,

-John

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Ed_S
Ed_S Veteran Member • Posts: 8,078
Re: Sharpening - this is why I keep reading this forum

Mark, John, and all,

I'm pushing myself to do more of my "own" photography beyond the many photos I shoot of events for organizations I belong to. I've learned recently I really have to get out and get more walking exercise (less time sipping diet drink and typing over lunch hour) for non-photo reasons. Taking a hike with a couple of cameras ain't a bad excuse for a little aerobic activity.

Non-original thought: photographers take photos. While there's much to be learned here from the good insights of our colleagues, if we don't put it to work along with exercising our own instincts and skills - we don't grow.

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dmaclau Senior Member • Posts: 2,479
contrast

Charles

many if not most converted images need CONTRAST. Give it a try. Also don't forget mid contrast.

Charles
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Zone8 Forum Pro • Posts: 17,255
Re: Sharpening - this is why I keep reading this forum

Ed_S wrote:

Mark, John, and all,

I've learned recently I really have to get out and get more walking exercise (less time sipping diet drink and typing over lunch hour) for non-photo reasons.

Hi Ed. I can see you are a candidate for using the opening "music" for Windoze that I have on my computer. It's actually a bright American male saying, when Windoze opens:

"Congratulations! You have just won a fabulous eight hour day chained to this machine"

I find it gives me a necessary jab to get out!

When I exit, I have the basic intro to Queen's "I want to break free ... "

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The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
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