External methods of time lapse with EX-F1?
So I know that the EX-F1 can't do timelapse shots, but I'm wondering if there are other methods/accessories that would allow the EX-F1 to do it. It seems like such a simple thing to do, I don't know why they didn't include it as a feature to begin with.
Well, there's always the old-fashioned way. If you have a tripod and a stopwatch, take a picture every 10 seconds or so, depending on the speed of your main subject. Knowing that you will be playing back your pictures at 24-30 fps, find out how long you want to play the stopmotion effect, and you should be able to know how many pictures you have to take to achieve your intended result.
I know this is not the answer you're looking for, but there are ways to do it. I got the EX-FH20 and I'm thinking of doing the same effect of barges coming down the Ohio river, and then show them going by really quickly, up and down the river. At best I get the effect I want, and at worst I have a nice day by the river.
Well, if you mean manually, then really any camera could do a time lapse shot. But imagine wanting to a day to night shot, that would take up sooooo much time to do manually.
I was looking around online, and I found these timer things that I think you can implant into the wired controller for the ex-f1? I'm not that tech savy whatsoever, especially when it comes to hardware like that, anyone know anything about it?
And as far as I know it's possible that the ex-f1 may never get a firmware update with timelapse function? Or has it been announced?
There's a nice glitch that gets it for you. Simply set the dial to the 1-60fps, set the record frequency to the lowest setting (auto-n), turn on the timer (menu, self timer). When it starts, only two conditions will cause it to stop taking pictures:
1. You press the shutter again.
2. You run out of memory.
Get yourself a 16G or 32G SDGC and you can get a really good, long time lapse.
I just gave it a try.
I'm skittish about letting the shutter run for a long time. Heat build-up, wear and tear and all that goes with continuous use keep running through my mind.
Have you let it run?
I like this camera. I don't want to wear it out doing something that it wasn't meant to do.
That's also the first thing I thought about.. I don't know how long it'd last with my 8GB SDHC, probably not a lot at the rate it's taking the pictures, but also aren't regular timelapse with shots around a minute apart or more?
My EX-F1 is taking like one a second D=
...I'm guessing there's no way to set the rate at which the pictures are taken with that technique?
I think my 8GB SDHC would fill up in no time, as well, dang. There must be another way.
Well, I actually spliced the wire on the included remote and added a 2.5mm plug to the end of it, so I can now use all my canon rebel accessories with the ex-f1. One of these accessories was an intervalometer (like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Timer-Remote-Cord-for-Canon-1000D-500D-Rebel-T1i-XSi-XS_W0QQitemZ170326106939QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCamera_Cables_Cords?hash=item27a83a233b&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205 |66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50), so I can actually use that to control the casio. I also spliced an dc adapter from an old laptop, so theoretically I can run a timelapse forever.
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I've let it run to fill a full 16GB class 6 card @ 3MP. Don't know how long it took since when it was done I realized that someone had turned on the light in the kitchen where it was and the glare from the window ruined the shot. My F1 is still working fine, though that's the only time I've done the 'time-lapse' thing. Also, as far as I know the F1's rolling shutter is just a rotating prism, so there shouldn't be the same mechanical issues as you would see on an SLR. That being said, I'm no expert, so use at your own risk.
Yes of course. I spliced the wire on the casio remote discovered there were 3 different wires. After some experimentation I learned that the white wire was for the half press of the shutter, the red wire is for a whole press of the shutter, and the black wire is the ground wire. I then found a female stereo headphone jack and through some experimentation found that the very tip of the male jack is for a full press of the shutter, the middle of the jack is for a half press, and the base of the jack is for the ground. I soldered this accordingly, and was very pleased when it worked.
I know these instructions aren't very good, and they require a pretty good knowledge of wiring, but if you have any more questions, I'd be glad to help.
Ahh, that's pretty awesome that you found a way around it. So you CAN do timelapses with your EX-F1 then?
I'm definitely going to attempt to do this since I have no use for the wired remote shutter anyway, but I am really technically ignorant of all of this stuff. So what all do I need besides the wired remote?
Would it be too much trouble to ask for some pictures?
Yea, the timelapses work great. There really isn't much for me to take pictures of, because all the wiring is already done. I actually kinda lied about my intervalometer though. I don't yet have that one that I posted the link for because I haven't bought it yet, I currently use a graphing calculator with an intervalometer program to trigger it ( http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-a-TI-Graphing-Calculator-into-an-Intervalomet/ ) but the concept is the same.
Here are some quick pictures of just the connectors. I'm a little busy this week, but if you want more pictures, just ask.
Wahaha, that's so genius and professional looking, I love how you connected it to the calculator haha.
Those pictures are great, but I am still kind of lost, I guess I'd have to crack my wired shutter remote to get a little better understanding. Do you know if it's possible to buy them elsewhere? I don't know if I'm ever going to need mine.
Also, would you say what you have done is doable by anyone? Like I said, I am really ignorant when it comes to electronics and wiring and such.
well, there were parts that were difficult, like when I needed to use an ohm meter to figure out which wire is for the half press, which is for full, and which is for ground, but now that I did it, it shouldn't be too difficult. I looked around for a replacement cable, and the only one I could find was for $20 on ebay. I'm trying to find it cheaper, but the cable seems to be a proprietary and very hard to find.
Well, what would be your planned intervalometer? because if its a calculator like me, then you can use directly the connector I described, but if its going to be like the canon one I originally talked about, you need another 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter, but thats no problem and is only like $2. I guess if you really wanted (or anyone else), they could send me their cable plus a little money for supplies, I could probably put it together for them.
It's nothing exciting, but I did a quick test with something like 10 second intervals here: http://vimeo.com/4656623 .
I'm glad you found out about the wires in the "remote" for the EX-F1 - I was too cautious to just cut it myself. So I have two questions:
1.) Are the 3 wires white+red+black the only ones in the cable
2.) How does the actual switchwing work? Ground to white, then ground to red, or a different sequence, or do I even need an additional voltage from somewhere?
As related topic: did someone find a way to remotely start/stop the video? I was thinking of building a magnetic driven piston outside the camera (without modifying the body), which is not very elegant, since there is the need for an additional frame around everything, and there will be a significant delay for the mechanics to act.
Best regards, Frederik.
1) Yes, those three wires are the only ones in there. Theres a little insulation, but only three wires.
2) No extra voltage is required, its just ground to ground, half press to half press, and full press to full press. Each wire is soldered to its complement on the other wire.
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