That i one detailed shot and i guess it is heavily downscaled.
I would guess it is approx 6000x6000 in full size?
This was with Nikon 300 F:4 AF and 1.4 TC
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I'll throw mine in, and it is only interesting for one reason. It is actually handheld on a downtown Montreal street with the 70-300VR - Nikon D80; 300mm; f/7.1, 1/640th second. ISO 125 (manual exposure).
Frankly, I was stunned that the 70-300VR could be this sharp at 300mm (this image was heavily cropped and upsampled to a higher resolution, then adjusted in Capture NX). It was a very clear evening, especially considering that it was fairly warm (70sF).
I agree with others that moon shots are more interesting at other phases than full moon.
This was with Nikon 300 F:4 AF and 1.4 TC
Really nice job, Antti!
I was guessing about the size based on the squares it was put together with. I guessed that every square were one 6 Mpx image and therefor it would be an really highres file.
heheh, fooled me.
I too am experimenting with a reflex lens. Can you tell me something
about your lens (make, f-stop, etc.)? I have been using a cheap 500mm
Cambron reflex and an older 500mm Nikon Type-C. Any advice on how to
get the most out of a reflex lens? My tends to produce soft and
low-contrast pictures with dull colors.
Daniel Soh wrote:
Shot with a 1000mm reflex lens.
Can't remember the brand as it is not 'punched' into the lens, got it 10 years ago, some cheap lens. Aperature F11. That image was shot handheld 1/125 sec to minimise hand/lens shake. Reason, why it was shot handheld, because of the flexiblity it gives me. Using a tripod with a 1000mm reflex, you can literally track the moon moving out of the frame and constant tripod adjustments are needed. Focusing is the core ingredient in getting the image sharp, if it is off by a bit, the end result would be a soft image. Took at least 20 images to get it right. Edited the image in Adobe lightroom, where sharpness, further noise reduction and contrast were enhanced.
Hope that helps.
My mistake, that is a 25% downres.
The moon, as it was, was filling the frame, so I had to take several shots to be sure I got it all.
The 100% size and reprocessed - only 3 frames and +0.3EV - is here:
Very nice moon shot. I am wondering why there are lines across the upper quadrant of the shot. They almost look like squares. Dave
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1/10 is too slow for this subject because the moon, due to the rotation of the earth, moves in the image frame. It is very possible, even probable, that this image could have been sharper with a faster shutter speed.
The best aperture to use is the aperture of your lens which gives maximum sharpness (not maximum depth of field, as depth of field isn't really important with a subject as far away as the moon - for purposes of image making, the moon is on a single plane which makes a smaller aperture unnecessary.
Choose the ISO that will give you at least a shutter speed or 1/125 @ your chosen aperture. Remember to spot meter the moon itself as center weighted or multi segment will overexpose.
bob elkind wrote:
If you have a remote shutter release, you should use, along with
mirror up shooiting mode.
1/10 sec, ISO100, F/11 (F/22 counting the 2x Kenko Pro300 TC), Bigma
In addition to the advice above:
1. Use two tripods, or a tripod plus a monopod under the camera body.
2. Set up on a hard surface such as a concrete pad.
3. Wait for a calm evening, and for the moon to be high above the horizon. Atmospheric distortion can be severe at high magnification.
4. Use a cable release and mirror-lockup, allowing at least 5 seconds between mirror-up and exposure.
5. Use manual focus, bracketing in very fine increments. I move the (very large) focus ring of my AF-I 400/2.8 about 0.1mm between frames - seriously!
6. Be aware that if you spend very much time outside, you may need to re-focus due to lens temperature change.
Example - D2X, AF-I 400/2.8 + TC-20E + TC-14E (yes, you can stack converters with a simple modification):
Marianne Oelund wrote:
Example - D2X, AF-I 400/2.8 + TC-20E + TC-14E
Fantastic - lots of detail, sharp. I can't remember having seen any better moon image with non-astronomic equipment.
I agree with previous poster, your image is the best I've seen with non-astronomy gear. Questions for you on your settings:
aperture... do you shoot wide open or do you stop the lens down ? You're stacking a f/2.8 with a 2x and 1.4x, you're up to f/8 wide open.
by comparison, I'm using a 500mm/6.3 lens stacked with a 2x TC, leaving effective f/12.6 "wide open", and then I stop the lens to f/8 for sharpness... and now I'm at f/16 (diffraction ? what diffraction ?).
shutter speed... critical ? not critical ? At f/16 (effective), if I shot at 1/100 sec (the shutter speed in your posted sample) the image would be way undeexposed at ISO100. Are you doing something tricky to get 1/100 sec at ISO100 with your setup, or are you taking an exposure level hit and boosting in PP ? Or am I imagining things, and exposure is just fine at 1/100 sec ?
I appreciate your help, Marianne. Taking the "perfect moon shot" won't solve all of life's problems for me, but it's kind of like buliding your own light sabre if you're a Jedi apprentice... it's a rite of passage, so to speak.
bob elkind wrote:
aperture... do you shoot wide open or do you stop the lens down ?
You're stacking a f/2.8 with a 2x and 1.4x, you're up to f/8 wide
The lens was stopped down 1 stop for this photo, although its optimum is actually 1.3 to 1.5 stops down from wide open. This is true regardless of which TC or TC combination is used with the lens. The EXIF data does not reflect the presence of the 1.4x TC, only the 2x TC which the lens was mounted to, so the effective aperture was actually f/11.
shutter speed... critical ? not critical ? At f/16 (effective),
if I shot at 1/100 sec (the shutter speed in your posted sample) the
image would be way undeexposed at ISO100. Are you doing something
tricky to get 1/100 sec at ISO100 with your setup, or are you taking
an exposure level hit and boosting in PP ? Or am I imagining things,
and exposure is just fine at 1/100 sec ?
I find that 1/80 to 1/100 is the correct exposure at f/11, ISO 100, provided the moon is well above the horizon, and the atmosphere is clear. This records the brightest highlights at about 200-210 data value. Some prefer to expose the moon to a whiter level, but I do not believe this provides a realistic rendering.
It takes very little haze to reduce the exposure considerably. Even thin, high clouds which the moon is clearly visible through to the eye, will reduce exposure by several stops or more.
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At first glance, I was flipped out by the quality of this shot, but on closer examination, I can see it was pieced together. So how did you create this one?