Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

Started Jun 15, 2006 | Discussions
Gordy Hinky Junior Member • Posts: 27
Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

What do I do with my filters? Are they worth keeping now that I"m shooting digital? When shooting RAW I can white/color balance in post. So what good are my filters anymore? Polarizer, FLD, 80A, 25A, 81B, Yellow, Green, etc. etc.

RonAnnArbor Senior Member • Posts: 1,297
Re: Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

I don't use any of them anymore, with the exception of the starburst cross hatch filter for occasional special effect work, because I find that is just not recreatable in PS.

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chris3010 Senior Member • Posts: 2,738
Polarizer, NDs, grad NDs, UV for me

Julia Borg also suggests the use of a particular color correction filter for expanding dynamic range, but for most users the color-neutral filters are the only ones they're still using.

Chris

Gordy Hinky wrote:

What do I do with my filters? Are they worth keeping now that I"m
shooting digital? When shooting RAW I can white/color balance in
post. So what good are my filters anymore? Polarizer, FLD, 80A,
25A, 81B, Yellow, Green, etc. etc.

Mark Burnham Senior Member • Posts: 1,224
Re: Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

I still use my polarizer, ND, and Gradient ND filters.

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-Mark

MOD TOF guy Forum Pro • Posts: 16,079
Re: Polarizer, NDs, grad NDs, UV for me

Chris wrote:

Julia Borg also suggests the use of a particular color correction
filter for expanding dynamic range, but for most users the
color-neutral filters are the only ones they're still using.

This is not the only one filter (CC40M) that Julia suggest keeping. For instance blue filter to shoot under incandescent lights.

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Thierry

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Cliff Fujii
Cliff Fujii Veteran Member • Posts: 8,322
Buy the best, buy B+W, it's worth the extra cash...

Gordy Hinky wrote:

What do I do with my filters? Are they worth keeping now that I"m
shooting digital? When shooting RAW I can white/color balance in
post. So what good are my filters anymore? Polarizer, FLD, 80A,
25A, 81B, Yellow, Green, etc. etc.

Let's start off with a Skylight 1A. I like the slightly extra bit of warmth a 1A gives you.
Circular Polarizer (except for the ultra-wides)
ND .3 (1 stop)
ND .6 (2 stops)
ND .9 (3 stops)

Perhaps an ND gradient filter to knock down the EV of the sky so that your ground/sky combination is within the dynamic range of your camera

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Cliff

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michaeladawson Forum Pro • Posts: 15,110
Re: Buy the best, buy B+W, it's worth the extra cash...

If you want a little bit of warmth why use a filter? Take the shot and add a touch of warmth in PP.
--
Mike Dawson

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michaeladawson Forum Pro • Posts: 15,110
Re: Polarizer, NDs, grad NDs, UV for me

Has anyone here seen Julia's work? I read a lot of cryptic posts from her. She seems to love to play games making people guess at the answers she claims to possess. It's a game I refuse to play.

I don't mean to diminish her contributions here. But seriously, I have not seen her post any of her work. No links to photos, no website, nothing. I'd like to see something that validates her opinions.
--
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Rumpis Veteran Member • Posts: 3,089
Re: Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

I'm keeping polarizer and gradual ND. Thinking about warming polarizer.

Gordy Hinky wrote:

What do I do with my filters? Are they worth keeping now that I"m
shooting digital? When shooting RAW I can white/color balance in
post. So what good are my filters anymore? Polarizer, FLD, 80A,
25A, 81B, Yellow, Green, etc. etc.

-- hide signature --

Rumpis

AZSheldon
AZSheldon Contributing Member • Posts: 527
Pol = Reduces glare, 81a = slight warming...

I recommend at least a polarizing filter to reduce glare from the original subject. Although glare might be able to be managed in post processing, the result is what the software "thought" the subject should look like, and one can add true colors to the original file by using a polarizing filter and reducing the glare.

I'm not trying to start a back and forth discussion about whether or not to use a polarizing filter... it is just my personal choice (and I live in Arizona where we have a lot of intense light).

An 81A is also a favorite filter of mine. I used to use this when I shot weddings for four years in the 1990's, and this filter gave a nice light warmth to skin tones. I use it now and then, and I found it works nicely in the outdoors giving the desert a warmer tone and deepening the greens slightly.

Those are my two-cents worth.

Jack

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Cliff Fujii
Cliff Fujii Veteran Member • Posts: 8,322
Re: Buy the best, buy B+W, it's worth the extra cash...

Except for the 1A, I don't use color correction filters. I got my first Nikon Photomic F in 1965 and have been using a protection filter since then.

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Cliff

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Julia Borg Veteran Member • Posts: 7,280
Re: Polarizer, NDs, grad NDs, UV for me

michaeladawson wrote:

I read a lot of cryptic posts
from her. ... It's a game I refuse to play.

then do not read

I don't mean to diminish her contributions ... I'd like to see something
that validates her opinions.

what contribution are you talking about? I claim no contribution here at all. You have nothing to diminish. I also display no opinions here, I try to operate with facts and post my observations. All facts can be validated or proved wrong through experiments. If you do not understand my posts, or can't make your own experiments, why to blame me?

Funny how you can't stay on topic

Do not bother to explain urbi et orbi your feelings about me. Please relax and stay on topic.

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Julia

Joseph S Wisniewski Forum Pro • Posts: 34,385
Color correction, polarizer, enhancer, nd grad, IR....

Gordy Hinky wrote:

What do I do with my filters? Are they worth keeping now that I"m
shooting digital? When shooting RAW I can white/color balance in
post. So what good are my filters anymore? Polarizer, FLD, 80A,
25A, 81B, Yellow, Green, etc. etc.

The color correcting filters are necessary. Nikons are basically "daylight balanced". If you rely on the camera or raw processing for a large color correction (like incandescent light), you'll be boosting the blue channel so much that you get a lot of ugly blue shadow noise. They settle right down with an 80A.

The red channels on many Nikons are right on the edge for a typical daylight scene, and even "slight warming" filters can blow the red channel. If I want slight warming, I do it in post.

B&W filters like a red 25, yellow or green are useless. They disturb the way the camera demosaics its red, green, and blue sensor data and cause a substantial decrease in resolution and increase in artifacts.

The polarizer and the enhancing filter simply cannot be duplicated in PhotoShop. The ND grad can be, but it involves merging two shots. If there's anything that moves in your shot, the ND grad is more convenient.

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The Pistons led the NBA, and lost in the playoffs.
The Red Wings led the NHL, and lost in the playoffs.

It's up to the Tigers now...
Leading the league, and going all the way!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com

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michaeladawson Forum Pro • Posts: 15,110
Re: Polarizer, NDs, grad NDs, UV for me

Julia Borg wrote:

michaeladawson wrote:

I read a lot of cryptic posts
from her. ... It's a game I refuse to play.

then do not read

I don't mind reading your posts at all. However, your style appears to be along the lines of the "Socratic Method" for teaching. That is what I refer to when I say I don't want to play that game.

I don't mean to diminish her contributions ... I'd like to see something
that validates her opinions.

what contribution are you talking about? I claim no contribution
here at all. You have nothing to diminish.

By "contributions" I am simply referring to posts. Yes, you are correct, you did not contribute directly to this thread. Your previous postings on the use of a CC40M filter were contributed for you.

I also display no
opinions here, I try to operate with facts and post my
observations. All facts can be validated or proved wrong through
experiments. If you do not understand my posts, or can't make your
own experiments, why to blame me?

Funny how you can't stay on topic

I was on topic. Or perhaps hanging on the edge. The post I responded to mentioned your CC40M opinions. I responded out of curiosity whether anyone had seen your work.

Yes, you do operate on facts and you do post your observations. You tend to stop there though and do not post your conclusions. That is half of any good scientific paper.

A poor choice of wording on my part to say that "I wanted to see your work in order to validate your posts". Your work would neither validate or refute your posts. More accurate to say I was more curious to simply see any of your work. Curious as to the photographer behind the poster.

Do not bother to explain urbi et orbi your feelings about me.

I don't think I expressed any feelings for you here I simply stated that your posts are often cryptic and had anyone seen your work. As far as cryptic goes... "urbi et orbi"? That's what I'm talking about.

Please relax and stay on topic.

Not to worry. I'm quite relaxed
--
Mike Dawson

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Troye413 Senior Member • Posts: 1,103
Re: Filters worth keeping for digital photography?

I second that. I still have my circ. pol. and ND grads.
--
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slimandy Forum Pro • Posts: 17,161
nicely summed up

I actually have more filters now than I had before digital, but mainly because I now know what they do
The only one that travels everywhere with me is a polariser.

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Marty Megapixel Contributing Member • Posts: 689
Which Polarizer?

I want to pull the trigger on a B+W polarizer. I should have purchased one 25 years ago. I have used so many Sunpak, Hoya, etc. brands and have never been happy with them. They are never sharp. Also, everything turns green.

I would like to know which ones you all use.

Also, are you using threaded ND filters, or drop in ones that fit the Cokin holders?
Thanks,
M.

slimandy Forum Pro • Posts: 17,161
Re: Which Polarizer?

Marty Megapixel wrote:

I want to pull the trigger on a B+W polarizer.

I would probably buy B&W if I was buying now because I'm impressed by some other B&W's that I have (for build quality as well as glass), but I actually use a Nikon that is very impressive also, noticeably better than my relatively cheap Hoya.

Also, are you using threaded ND filters, or drop in ones that fit
the Cokin holders?

Cokin. Easy to use. Can be moved higher/lower as well as rotated, and stacked if needed.

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Joseph S Wisniewski Forum Pro • Posts: 34,385
Mostly B+W, but here's the list...

Marty Megapixel wrote:

I want to pull the trigger on a B+W polarizer. I should have
purchased one 25 years ago. I have used so many Sunpak, Hoya, etc.
brands and have never been happy with them. They are never sharp.
Also, everything turns green.

I would like to know which ones you all use.

Honestly, I've never had your bad luck with Hoya. Then again, I've always bought their HMC or HMC PRO line.

But these days, my good polarizers are a recently purchased set of B+W. I like standard threaded, MRC coated in 52, 62, 72, and 77mm. Never could see the merit of Kaesemann polarizers. If anyone had told me I'd someday be paying about $400 for a set of four polarizers...

For my 18-70mm, I use a 67-62mm step down and the 62mm polarizer. I do this instead of a step up to a larger polarizer because I can use the stock lens hood with the step down (and the 18-70 needs a hood). It probably vignettes at 18mm, but if I'm at 18mm and doing anything serious, I'm using my 12-24mm, which is incredible at that focal length.

The only lens I have that might vignette with the standard polarizer is my 12-24mm f4. For that, if absolutely necessary to try a polarizer at 12mm, I use one of my older polarizers, a slim Hoya HMC PRO.

I have a couple of Hoya slim HMC (the older sort, without the front threads). A 62mm, back in the day when I used the 20mm f2.8 on film (that lens vignettes so easy) and a 77mm that I first used on a Tokina 28-70mm f2.8 and later the 28-80mm f2.8.

30 years ago, it had to be Tiffen. Then I got tired of Tiffen always lagging so far behind everyone else in terms of coatings, their outrageous thick mounts (7mm for a polarizer). When, over the course of a year, two of my Tiffens failed (turned yellow and blue), I stopped using Tiffen.

Also, are you using threaded ND filters, or drop in ones that fit
the Cokin holders?

Cokin, P size. Singh Ray filters. Cokin P modular lens hood, four sections.

Round threaded ND filters never put the grad where I want it.

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The Pistons led the NBA, and lost in the playoffs.
The Red Wings led the NHL, and lost in the playoffs.

It's up to the Tigers now...
Leading the league, and going all the way!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com

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Marty Megapixel Contributing Member • Posts: 689
SlimAndy and Joe

Slim, I have been tempted by the Nikon filters. Maybe I will give one a try. I agree, I use a threaded split ND filter and never get lucky with a shot that needs the split right in the middle. I used to use the smaller Cokin set. The filter probably wasn't very good and I always tended to drop or smudge the filters, but it made the most sense and I could put the split where it was needed.

Joe, I always wanted to contact you. I used to live in Troy. In fact, I still own a home there, but I am in New York now. I coulnd't take the pain of the Red Wings playoff fortunes and the Pistons really hurt me this year. Now if the Tigers, after all those bad teams I endured, make it to the playoffs and the Yankees don't. . . well, I might have to give up sports for good!

Honestly, I've never had your bad luck with Hoya. Then again, I've
always bought their HMC or HMC PRO line.

I never tried the Pro line

For my 18-70mm, I use a 67-62mm step down and the 62mm polarizer. I > do this instead of a step up to a larger polarizer because I can use the > stock lens hood with the step down (and the 18-70 needs a hood). It > probably vignettes at 18mm, but if I'm at 18mm and doing anything > serious, I'm using my 12-24mm, which is incredible at that focal length.

The only lens I have that might vignette with the standard
polarizer is my 12-24mm f4. For that, if absolutely necessary to
try a polarizer at 12mm, I use one of my older polarizers, a slim
Hoya HMC PRO.

Do you know if a regular B+W circ. pol filter vignettes at 12mm on a Nikon 12-24 lens? I would be using this filter on this lens.

Also, are you using threaded ND filters, or drop in ones that fit
the Cokin holders?

Cokin, P size. Singh Ray filters. Cokin P modular lens hood, four
sections.

I need to look into the Cokin P size. I guess that is what the majority of the pros that use Singh Ray filters do. It seems like such a hassle. Maybe I am wrong.
Michael

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