Pro1 EVF too bright!

Lauren35211

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I posted about this problemt earlier today, but didn't explain it very well, so gonna try again.

What I see in the EVF of my new Pro1, and in the LCD when viewed straight on, is much brighter that the photo I get when viewed on my monitor, or when printed. This is not the case with my other digicam, a Canon S100.

This bothers me. How am I to know whether to increase or decrease the exposure when I'm not seeing it accurately?

Do I perhaps have a defective unit, or is this just the way it is with this model? Any workarounds?

Help appreciated.

L.L.
 
I never rely on what an LCD or EVF shows-- it is sensitive to ambien light and will frequently fool you. The histogram is far more reliable-- get to know it well, it is your friend.
I posted about this problemt earlier today, but didn't explain it
very well, so gonna try again.

What I see in the EVF of my new Pro1, and in the LCD when viewed
straight on, is much brighter that the photo I get when viewed on
my monitor, or when printed. This is not the case with my other
digicam, a Canon S100.

This bothers me. How am I to know whether to increase or decrease
the exposure when I'm not seeing it accurately?

Do I perhaps have a defective unit, or is this just the way it is
with this model? Any workarounds?

Help appreciated.

L.L.
 
I never rely on what an LCD or EVF shows-- it is sensitive to
ambien light and will frequently fool you. The histogram is far
more reliable-- get to know it well, it is your friend.
Don't you have to shoot first, then view the histogram? Of course you could then take another shot.....usually, but not always possible.

Whatever, where can I learn about using the histogram?

Thanks,

L.L.
 
What mode you were in ? flash used? Please post a sample with Full Exif...
I never rely on what an LCD or EVF shows-- it is sensitive to
ambien light and will frequently fool you. The histogram is far
more reliable-- get to know it well, it is your friend.
Don't you have to shoot first, then view the histogram? Of course
you could then take another shot.....usually, but not always
possible.

Whatever, where can I learn about using the histogram?

Thanks,

L.L.
--
Andrew
http://h4ng0ver.smugmug.com
smugmug.com, coupon code: P398zmgQ5QBQw
 
I never rely on what an LCD or EVF shows-- it is sensitive to
ambien light and will frequently fool you. The histogram is far
more reliable-- get to know it well, it is your friend.
Don't you have to shoot first, then view the histogram? Of course
you could then take another shot.....usually, but not always
possible.

Whatever, where can I learn about using the histogram?

Thanks,

L.L.
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

BTW. You can not judge the right exposure from your EFV or LCD.
That’s not how it works.
Shoot Tv or Av mode, see the histogram and use the compensation.

--

http://www.pbase.com/mikez
 
Lauren,

I don't think there's anything wrong with your camera. Is this when you're looking through the EVF to line up shots, or afterwards, when reviewing taken pictures? Do note that the EVF will automatically "gain up" the view in lower light (which means it will brighten up the image so you can see.)

Checking the histogram and recomposing the shot when possible is one solution if you think it's misrepresenting the picture to you, but also be aware that you can adjust the exposure later on in the computer as well using software like Photoshop or Photoshop Elements. Basically, you can fix that problem by adjusting levels either automatically letting the software do it, or manually.

Dan
 
Lauren,
I don't think there's anything wrong with your camera. Is this
when you're looking through the EVF to line up shots, or
afterwards, when reviewing taken pictures?
It's both, they look the same.
Do note that the EVF
will automatically "gain up" the view in lower light (which means
it will brighten up the image so you can see.)
Well, my little Canon S100 wasn't like that. What was displayed in the LCD, both before and after the shot, was what the camera "saw", and what the prints would look like.
Checking the histogram and recomposing the shot when possible is
one solution if you think it's misrepresenting the picture to you,
I definitely do think the picture is being misrepresented. An interior shot of a darkish room looks so bright and colorful...very good actually,, but that's not what I'm going to get, I know that now.
but also be aware that you can adjust the exposure later on in the
computer as well using software like Photoshop or Photoshop
Elements. Basically, you can fix that problem by adjusting levels
either automatically letting the software do it, or manually.
Yes, I do know that, but it would be nice to get it right, or almost right, in the camera.

Thanks for your input, Dan.

L.L.
 
I definitely do think the picture is being misrepresented. An
interior shot of a darkish room looks so bright and colorful...very
good actually,, but that's not what I'm going to get, I know that
now.
In that case, I would start to suspect a broken color profile somewhere. Perhaps you could post one of your images and let everyone take a look. I have color management problems as well, whenever I try to make a print they always come out much darker than I expected. I've read various things about it, still haven't gotten it right. It's some mysterious magical thing as far as I'm concerned. :) But do post an image and let someone with a calibrated monitor who knows what they're doing take a look.

Dan
 
Lauren,

Indeed, the Pro1 LCD tends to be a bit brighter than your average desktop monitor. That's probably true of =most= LCD panels, as it's generally a matter of squeezing enough pixels into such a small area to make up a decent picture -- you have a greater concentration of pixels emitting light. It's the same with just about any kind of "video display."

But, yeah, the Pro1 can be brighter than the average camera LCD. On the other hand, some cameras will absolutely "boost the gain" when you get into low-light conditions -- that'd be a "feature, not a bug," so you have a better chance of seeing what you're trying to take a picture of.

In the end, no camera will be "perfect" to each user in every possible way. But, most of them are quite competent "tools" that you should be able to work with, and I think you can still work with your Pro1 LCD and get completely wonderful results.

You will come to get a grasp on when it would be good to toss in a bit of exposure compensation -- for instance, on any bright, sunny day, it's probably a good thing to dial in at least a -1/3 compensation. I recommend "bracketing," perhaps even in concert with some exposure compensation, to get a good feel for how the Pro1 will work with given light levels.

In the end, I think the beef about the LCD panel is one when you're shooting in "dark" situations -- like when I've been shooting neon signs or city skylines, in my experiences. Gosh, no -- you =can't= reliably tell if you've captured enough light or too much light by looking at your pictures on that LCD screen. But, now you =know= that they're going to be considerably brighter than they'll appear on a normal monitor, so you can take that into consideration.

Bear in mind that many such shots might be ones you'll take in full manual mode, and the Pro1 will =give= you "estimated exposure compensation" equivalents in the upper left-hand corner, and you =can= get a pretty good gist of where you are with those numbers.

And, in the end, this is a =digital= camera -- the nature of this kind of shooting (at the least) is that you might have to do a bit of trial and error to make sure you got the exact exposure you like the best. So, big whoopee -- take a whole bunch of pictures, from a bit lower-exposed to a bit higher-exposed than you think you may need. You =will= find something in the middle there that you'll like whole bunches!

You've already taken the first step -- realizing that the LCD is brighter than a normal monitor. Now, you're ready to take that into consideration as you keep on shooting!
--
Tom Hoots
My PBase galleries:
http://www.pbase.com/thoots
 

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