Nikon 60mm or 105mm macro.

chivobugg

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1st thing is I want to thank everyone on this form for there support and time they take to teach us newbie’s. I have been looking into macro lens for the past 3 months so far the Nikon 60mm f2.8 and the Nikon 105mm f2.8 are appealing to me. Any recommendations on these two lens as far in sharpness. Thank you very much

--
Newbie At Work
 
Any
recommendations on these two lens as far in sharpness. Thank you
very much
...but the 105 gets you a few more inches of distance, which can come in handy at times.

Consider also the Sigma 180/3.5 EX HSM Macro. It's a stellar lens at the price of Nikon's 105 -- and it's better all-around.

The 60 is an awesome lens for ~$300. Scary sharp and makes a good portrait lens to boot.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
 
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing 1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min. distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
 
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do
have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing
1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min.
distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to
the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the
subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens
is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for
portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash cant go below 45 degrees.
 
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do
have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing
1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min.
distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to
the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the
subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens
is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for
portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
No, you get shadow and it looks horrible.
--
D70, 5700, 995
patrickh
 
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do
have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing
1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min.
distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to
the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the
subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens
is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for
portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
Sometimes its better to take the flash off camera, bounce, diffuse or to use multiple flashes...
Also consider a ring flash.
 
The 60 is an awesome lens for ~$300. Scary sharp and makes a good
portrait lens to boot.
Yes it is a sharp lens, not sure if I agree that it is sharper than the 105 though. I have both the 55/2.8 AF Micro and the 105/2.8 AF Micro and they are razor sharp.

Here's a few with the 105.







Regards
Terry

--
Graham Fine Art Photography
http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/grahter
http://www.reginaphotoclub.com/MemberGallery/TGraham
Photography on the North American prairies & plains:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PrairiePhoto/
 
do u know of any particular good ring flashes for macro fotography on the D70? btw I have never heard of ring flashes....sorry for ignorance. and thanks again. :-)
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do
have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing
1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min.
distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to
the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the
subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens
is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for
portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
Sometimes its better to take the flash off camera, bounce, diffuse
or to use multiple flashes...
Also consider a ring flash.
--
Newbie At Work
 
This is precisely why you want the 105 instead of the 60. The 90-105 is the usual starter macro lens and if you get really serious you want the 180 macro. The 60 is usually used as a normal lens that can focus close if needed or for document copying although most would use a scanner for that these days. Sharpness is not an issue with macro lenses, they are all quite sharp, even most third party ones.

==PeterF==
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
 
Nikon makes the SB-29 which is an excellent ring-flash. To see it in operation, just watch an episode of CSI on TV ;-)
Hi,

Can't speak for the 105, since I do not have the lens. But I do
have the 60mm Micro, and it is very sharp. The only problem doing
1:1 Macro with this lens is, the working distance. The min.
distance I think is 8 3/4 inches, and that is from the subject to
the film plane, that leaves roughtly a couple inches from the
subject to the front element of the 60mm !

Except for the working distance (during Macro) problem, this lens
is absolutely sharp, and I just love it. I also use it for
portraits since I do not have a 50 mm.

-Sanjay
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
Sometimes its better to take the flash off camera, bounce, diffuse
or to use multiple flashes...
Also consider a ring flash.
--
Newbie At Work
 
great, thank you very much for your help i will look into the 105.
==PeterF==
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
--
Newbie At Work
 
I wonder if anyone has both lenses and post a few sample shots for us to compare...... =)
...but the 105 gets you a few more inches of distance, which can
come in handy at times.

Consider also the Sigma 180/3.5 EX HSM Macro. It's a stellar lens
at the price of Nikon's 105 -- and it's better all-around.

The 60 is an awesome lens for ~$300. Scary sharp and makes a good
portrait lens to boot.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
 
If you look at the pix on my web at the moment, most of the macros were shot with the 60. You've got to get the flash off the top of your camera, no matter what lens you get, if you want to get something other than the flat lighting and visible shadows that say "flash on camera."

Nikon makes a couple of flash extention cords, I have the SC-17, I think it is. When I shoot macro, no matter which lens I use, I hold the flash in my left hand, camera in my right. I can then choose the angle of the lighting I want - to balance out directional sunlight, to highlight a textural element, whatever. 90% of the time the best light angle is to the direct side or directly down on the object being photographed, something you can't do any other way. Even if you had a ring flash, if you were really "working" the subject being shot, you'd want to be able to choose the angle of light. (Note: you get bonus points for contortionism when the right lighting angle is to the right of the subject...people will gather around and watch...)

So don't think that the only way to get good lighting is to go with the 105. The extra inch it buys you (ok, maybe 2 inches) won't do much for you from a lighting perpective anyhow, although it will make it easier to shoot those lizard eyes and dragonfly wings. I don't make my choice between the 60 and 105 based on anything other than working distance, with the 60mm being the default lens since most of my macros are color studies.
==PeterF==
Just out of curiosity I know it might sound dumb (very new to
this), but when you get that close to a subject will there be
enough room for the flash to light up frame?. Assuming that the
lighting condition and not ideal? Since the angle of the flash
cant go below 45 degrees.
--
Newbie At Work
--
'No, the OTHER left.'
http://www.onemountainphoto.com
 
This is precisely why you want the 105 instead of the 60.
BUT, the 105, with an effective focal length of 157.5, is a bit too long to be an ideal portrait lens. The 60mm will make an excellent portrait lens, as well as being an excellent macro for all but bug work. That's my take on it, and I'm planning on buying the 60 as soon as I can convince Aunt Nancy :-).
--
Warm regards, Uncle Frank,
FCAS Charter Member, Hummingbird Hunter, Egret Stalker
Dilettante Appassionato
Coolpix Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/coolpix
D-Seventy Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/d70
 
1st thing is I want to thank everyone on this form for there
support and time they take to teach us newbie’s. I have been
looking into macro lens for the past 3 months so far the Nikon 60mm
f2.8 and the Nikon 105mm f2.8 are appealing to me. Any
recommendations on these two lens as far in sharpness.
The selection of a micro lenses does not only depend on sharpness but also the working distance. I used virtually all Nikon MF and AF micro lenses in the past 20+ year, from the MF 55mm F3.5 to AF 200mm F4. In terms of sharpness, I believe the 60mm is indeed slightly ahead of the 105mm in close range shooting (close-up and macro). The decision must also be based on the working distance. With the 60mm, the working distance is less than about 15cm for 1:1 and the working distance of the 105mm will be less than 30cm. With about 15cm working distance, it is difficult for lighting and composition. The 105mm will provide you with a longer working distance. This is an advantage not only for lighting and composition but also good for shooting wary and small animals. If you really like the 105mm focal length, try the Tamron 90mmSP or even the new Di version. The Tamron 90 is cheaper and as sharp as or even sharper than the Nikon.

If you also happen to cconsiderthe use of either micro lens for portrait shooting, be aware that they could be too sharp. Better choice for a limited budget could be the 80mm F1.8 or a used MF 105mm F2.5! Since DOF of lens does not change when one moves SLR to DSLR, the 60mm will provide you with larger DOF than the 105mm at the same aperture and focusing distance. But, you need to take the 1.5 multiplier into consideration. The 60 and 105 become 90 and 157 respectively. Portrait lenses usually have focal length from 70mm to 180mm. For example, Nikon has 80mm, 105mm, 135mm and 180mm. So, 157mm is still in this range. However, the key factor is what kind of portrait shots you will be taking and from what subject distance. If you shoot portrait up close, use a shorter focal length lens such as the 60 or 80 (90 and 120 on a D70). If you prefer to step backward and to have stronger compression, you can consider the 105mm (or better the MF 105mm F2.5 or the 105mm DC). In fact, I have seen many portrait photographers used 300mm on their SLRs! My personal preference is the AFD 105mm F2 DC.

CK
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam
Nikon Coolpix 950/990/995/2500/4500/5700 and Panasonic FZ-10 User Guides
 
Since DOF of lens does not change when one moves SLR
to DSLR, the 60mm will provide you with larger DOF than the 105mm
at the same aperture and focusing distance.
If both lenses were used to capture the same field of view, we'd need to be closer to the subject with the 60mm lens. So if everything else is held constant, the ratio of (distance to subject) (distance to background) would be lower for the 60mm lens. Wouldn't that result in a more blurred background for the 60mm?
Portrait lenses usually have focal length from 70mm to 180mm.
I've generally heard that 80-135mm is ideal for head shots, but wider focal lengths are suggested if you're going to show more more of the subject. Under dimensionally constrained conditions, such as an indoor setting, it might be impossible to to get a half body shot with a 157.5mm lens...

--
Warm regards, Uncle Frank,
FCAS Charter Member, Hummingbird Hunter, Egret Stalker
Dilettante Appassionato
Coolpix Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/coolpix
D-Seventy Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/d70
 
And probably much too sharp to be an ideal portrait lens.....;-)
... there's no such thing as too sharp as long as I have Photoshop at my disposal :-). It's always desireable to have sharpness in elements such as the eyes and teeth. Using a layer adjustment mask, you can always apply a touch of gaussian blur to areas where sharpness isn't advantageous. And it's much easier to blur than it is to sharpen.
--
Warm regards, Uncle Frank,
FCAS Charter Member, Hummingbird Hunter, Egret Stalker
Dilettante Appassionato
Coolpix Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/coolpix
D-Seventy Gallery at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank/d70
 
If both lenses were used to capture the same field of view, we'd
need to be closer to the subject with the 60mm lens.
The field of view of a 60mm and the field of view of a 105mm cannot be equal. The field of view of a lens is fixed once its focal length is given.
So if everything else is held constant, the ratio of (distance to
subject) (distance to background) would be lower for the 60mm lens.
Wouldn't that result in a more blurred background for the 60mm?
No. Please refer to the "Russian 14X vs. CrystalVue 8X ...." page of my 4500 user guide for more details. On that page, the size of the subject is kept constant using various lenses, and longer focal length lenses provide more "blurred" background. This is the effect of perspective. Don't want to get into the detailed optic theory; but, you can get the feeling from looking at the images on the above mentioned page.
I've generally heard that 80-135mm is ideal for head shots, but
wider focal lengths are suggested if you're going to show more more
of the subject. Under dimensionally constrained conditions, such
as an indoor setting, it might be impossible to to get a half body
shot with a 157.5mm lens...
The 180mm is a legendary portrait lens for long subject distance, say for cat walk and fashion shooting. It was very popular in indoor available light photography (fashion, sport, etc). Many consider the 180 as the longest available portrait lens. The beauty of having various focal length portrait lenses is that one can choose the right one for different shooting occasions. My AFD 105mm F2DC gave me about 1.5m on F5 for a head-shoulder shot. It is about 2m on a D70/D100. It is uncommon for a portrait photographer to back away from the model. A very close shooting distance CAN make many models feel uncomfortable. This is especially true for non-professional models. Of the three popular portrait lenses, 85mm, 105mm and 135mm, for half body shots, I particularly like the 105mm. I used MF 105mm F1.8, MF 105mm F2.5 and AFD 105mm F2DC to make $$$ for many years, and they became my own preference. Other people may like 85 while some others may prefer 135. This all boils down to personal preference and environmental constraints.

CK
 

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