ESP versus multi metering! pics

Exactly what it does in Multi, and then it picks what it thinks is the best weighting from algos built in as reference data. Nikon cameras excel at this--maybe the one thing they still do excel at besides high end lens design and manufacture.

The problem is that Multi--as you rightly say--has to be used only in those circumstances where your photographic knowledge and experience with the camera tell you it will be beneficial. I too have found that it is relatively poor when it is shadows that are important, especially if you use a very bright point as the brightest point in the scene as one of the 8 points.

I have found that using centrewighted and roaming the scene until I get the balance I want in the EVF, then locking that and recomposing is better and faster unless, as the examples show one is shooting into bright light. Then I switch to Multi + spot.

EJN said:

JNPap said:

Given the same situation, I think I would have left it on ESP and
used exposure compensation to get it where I would want it.

Besides, doesn't ESP mode also effect white balance? By taking it
off of ESP, you're loosing some ability to white balance?

Click to expand...

By 'exposure compensation' do you mean altering EV ?? correct me
if I'm missing something (not unknown !!!) but that surely would
affect the WHOLE pic-view wouldn't it ? With Multi of course you
only adjust exposure set for the area you want - doing it several
times to memorise different areas is what does it. Doesn't it ???
--
EJN

Click to expand...

spot metering is something pros rely on, but i think is confusing. i leave everything on centerweight (most of time i prefer this to ESP or matrix in Nikons) and dial in EVs.

in a perfect world we would put grad filters. in a less perfect world we would do two exposures on a tripod and blend the two in photoshop.

JNPap said:

Given the same situation, I think I would have left it on ESP and
used exposure compensation to get it where I would want it.

Besides, doesn't ESP mode also effect white balance? By taking it
off of ESP, you're loosing some ability to white balance?

Click to expand...

--

http://www.pbase.com/hulk18
'What we do in life echoes in eternity'

EJN said:

Dave Chilvers said:

Member said:

I was thinking the same, I've got that meter somewhere and always

Click to expand...

used it for my MF film shots and it really did get you in the ball
park, I used mine in the incident mode and (for those new to it)
you actually meter the light that is falling on the subject rather
than the light reflected from it and in all things being equal the
exposure should be as close as you could get but of course there
were still times when you had adjust the exposure to bring out
detail in parts that were important. I'll give it a try. The only
worry is just how close to the old values(shutter speed and F
stops) have the modern digital manufactorers stuck to.

--
Dave C

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Dave -
Yes, my old Autometerwas incident (slide-able white ball for
reflected if needed) and it was spot-on. Don't think the variation
(if any) should maybe matter so much in digi... I bet it's still
better , if we were not so lazy nowadays...

EJN

Click to expand...

EJN

Tried the hand held meter and it would appear that the old values still hold firm with regards to shutter and F stops http://www.pbase.com/image/29163061

cheers

--
Dave C

EJN said:

By 'exposure compensation' do you mean altering EV ?? correct me
if I'm missing something (not unknown !!!) but that surely would
affect the WHOLE pic-view wouldn't it ? With Multi of course you
only adjust exposure set for the area you want - doing it several
times to memorise different areas is what does it. Doesn't it ???
--
EJN

Click to expand...

I don't have an 8080 (yet) and didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night, but I have owned four Olympus OM-4/4T cameras. These have the multi-spot capability (and I've used it many times). Multi-metering just averages the readings from the spots you've picked. You wind up with an exposure between the extremes so that (knock on wood) you retain shadow detail & don't blow out the hightlights. Perhaps I misunderstood, but I think you're saying that a spot reading taken in one area will result in correct exposure for that area, the second spot metered will be also be exposed correctly based on the reading there, etc. That's not how it works. Multi-metering DOES affect "the WHOLE pic-view." One could alter the EV and get the exact same exposure that metering several spots would give but (IMO) you would be guessing on the EV adjustment whereas the averaged multi-spot readings (if picked correctly) would be more likely to be "correct." Does that clarify things, just muddy the waters some more, or am I missing some fundamental issue?
Mike
--
http://community.webshots.com/user/alphamicro
http://www.pbase.com/alphamicro/fz1

Dave Chilvers said:

Old Timer63 said:

Tried the hand held meter and it would appear that the old values

Click to expand...

still hold firm with regards to shutter and F stops
http://www.pbase.com/image/29163061

cheers

--
Dave C

Click to expand...

Hey, Dave, that's a really wonderful shot. Funny...I've just this morning rummaged around and found my old Autiometer II - battery STILL Full (!!!) so I'm going to try it myself...gosh, that IS good - and a LOT of 'variabilities' which I bet the modern digi system averages moreso. The tonal quality/correctness is wonderfukl on that one

--
EJN