Well, the good news is that if you buy anything other than an E-M10 IV, it will be able to autofocus your PanaLeica 25mm. Oh, and don't buy a Yi M1 either.
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What is the best ultra wide angle lens for MFT?
- Thread starter ChristopherIQ
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Rolled out my lovely light Canon 70-200mm f4.0L IS II EF zoom lens *using the Metabones Ultra FR Adapter v4.30 firmware on my G9II
AFC - seems to be working smoothly, quickly and silently. Icon tells me that camera body IBIS is not working. Switch in-lens IS off and the Icon says "no stabilisation".
* FR is 35-140/2.8
AFC - seems to be working smoothly, quickly and silently. Icon tells me that camera body IBIS is not working. Switch in-lens IS off and the Icon says "no stabilisation".
* FR is 35-140/2.8
Earl Goodson
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Can you say a little more about the performance of the Sigma 50-100 f1.8 in low-light settings on a PDAF camera? I was considering buying that lens plus either a regular AF adapter or a smart adapter to my bag. Seems like a perfect event photography lens, assuming the autofocus is somewhat reliable. I'd also want the 18-35 1.8, if the performance is good...
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I bought my used 55-250mm STM with a broken mount (OEM mount is plastic and had some of the tabs broken) and bought that exact aftermarket replacement mount you mentioned. I have used it with my Metabones Speedbooster Ultra and it works great. If I didn't buy that mount, I may have done "surgery" as some have done and cut off the OEM baffle to make it fit, but since it was broken anyways (and was less expensive as a result), the savings went toward a replacement mount.
Yes, I also worry it may damage my lens if I keep letting it do that, so after a quick experiment, I didn't try any further. I did try taking some pictures and whether the subject is in focus seems to depend on where it is focused during the pulsing, so unreliable even if you can bear the pulsing.
Would be interesting to see, there was another commenter in another thread asking exactly that, whether the G9 II works with the 55-250mm STM in AFC (and tracking) with the latest updates. With the G9 apparently not, at least with older updates, but I don't think anyone tested it yet with a G9 II with Metabones' latest optimizations.
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/68478587
SeeingSomeThingsMissingMany
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Picked up this june 15-30/3.5-4.5 620g Sigma for my 7r2. Had a tough time keeping it steady handheld even at 1/250. Partially due to no ois on this siggy, I could keep Canon 16-35/4 IS steady 1/25 on my 7r2. Partially because damaged back 2018, one ankle partially crocked, right knee wonky from school days, both wrists not sturdy as they were, right shoulder issues from my 20s that's worse these days.
Goodness knows I couldn't handle handleld that siggy 50-100/1.8 1400g no ois on a m4/3 body.
On a chunky chonky dslr body reckon I'd fare better. I just find chonky chunky dslrs with lumpy lenses easier to handle.
[ o ]
Having said this, Oasis concert london Wembley stadium last month far away seats had 30x zoom pocketable sony hx-50v. Due to hx50v slowness esp low light max zoom got 2 unintentionally wild photos of Liam and Noel. None of the pro press photographs have anything as wild. Considered trying to send them to Liam and Noel via their management. Might look into it don't know.
https://www.dpreview.com/products/sony/compacts/sony_dschx50v
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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
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I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
Thanks for the example, it perfectly illustrates what I was talking about earlier. At 7mm, even at f/5, the edges remain blurry when focusing close to infinity.
--That said, I kind of gave up on using UWA lenses for my concert photography with MFT (I use L-Mount for that instead) partially because there isn't a great fast zoom option there that wouldn't just cause me problems.This kinda ghosting under performance lighting can be a real nightmare.
Alex
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Sam Bennett
Veteran Member
Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
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Sam Bennett
Instagram: @swiftbennett
Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
A
--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
It doesn't look like blur, more like a out of focus bokeh.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
--
Alex
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Sam Bennett
Veteran Member
Yeah, again this looks consistent with my post processing in SnapSeed. I use the "Lens Blur" tool with a radial mask that I change according to the area I want to bring attention to.Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
You may also notice some graininess here - again, added intentionally in SnapSeed.
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Sam Bennett
Instagram: @swiftbennett
Sam Bennett
Veteran Member
Call it whatever you like, but the point remains - you're not seeing something that indicates anything about the optical properties of the lens. You're seeing a byproduct of my sometimes heavy-handed editing style.It doesn't look like blur, more like a out of focus bokeh.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
--
Sam Bennett
Instagram: @swiftbennett
Ah got it!Yeah, again this looks consistent with my post processing in SnapSeed. I use the "Lens Blur" tool with a radial mask that I change according to the area I want to bring attention to.Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
You may also notice some graininess here - again, added intentionally in SnapSeed.
I tend to use vignetting for that.
A
--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
Sam Bennett
Veteran Member
Yeah I use a variety of techniques to emphasize things. My most commonly used SnapSeed "Look" involves (in order in which they're applied):Ah got it!Yeah, again this looks consistent with my post processing in SnapSeed. I use the "Lens Blur" tool with a radial mask that I change according to the area I want to bring attention to.Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
You may also notice some graininess here - again, added intentionally in SnapSeed.
I tend to use vignetting for that.
A
- Adjust - Brightness, Saturation (typically boosting since I reduce saturation in my default SooC settings to prevent blowing out channels), small WB tweaks
- Lens Blur - Typically radial, adjust to the point I want to emphasize. Ideally adjusted to compliment the DoF that is already in the photo.
- Vignette - Again, typically around the area I want to emphasize. Sometimes this is removed entirely if it's causing weird issues with highlights in the corners.
- Drama - Provide a little punch to the subject, typically throw a mask solely on the subject
- Details - Similar to Drama - add a little punch to the subject, usually the same mask
- Film - Add a little grain to tie the image together and try to mitigate the lens blur from looking so obvious. Also use the actual film "look", but typically at 40-50% strength to alter color balance.
Not super happy with the tonality of the sky in this shot, but you get the idea. This was a quick set of photos (processed on my phone during the ride home) for the owners of a horse rescue so they can use them on social media.
--
Sam Bennett
Instagram: @swiftbennett
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That works for me.Yeah I use a variety of techniques to emphasize things. My most commonly used SnapSeed "Look" involves (in order in which they're applied):Ah got it!Yeah, again this looks consistent with my post processing in SnapSeed. I use the "Lens Blur" tool with a radial mask that I change according to the area I want to bring attention to.Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
You may also notice some graininess here - again, added intentionally in SnapSeed.
I tend to use vignetting for that.
A
Not my best photo, but one from this weekend - here's the before/after with all of effects mentioned above and a bit of "healing" to remove the fencing.
- Adjust - Brightness, Saturation (typically boosting since I reduce saturation in my default SooC settings to prevent blowing out channels), small WB tweaks
- Lens Blur - Typically radial, adjust to the point I want to emphasize. Ideally adjusted to compliment the DoF that is already in the photo.
- Vignette - Again, typically around the area I want to emphasize. Sometimes this is removed entirely if it's causing weird issues with highlights in the corners.
- Drama - Provide a little punch to the subject, typically throw a mask solely on the subject
- Details - Similar to Drama - add a little punch to the subject, usually the same mask
- Film - Add a little grain to tie the image together and try to mitigate the lens blur from looking so obvious. Also use the actual film "look", but typically at 40-50% strength to alter color balance.
Not super happy with the tonality of the sky in this shot, but you get the idea. This was a quick set of photos (processed on my phone during the ride home) for the owners of a horse rescue so they can use them on social media.
I tend not to use masks but processing from RAW has a lot of options. My jpeg settings are pretty neutral to avoid under exposing the RAW. Using UniWB to maximise DR gives a weird start point but it soon looks better with a couple of tweaks.
Used vignetting to cover up my focus point and DoF error
Perhaps a bit more dramatic than in my mind’s eye when taking the shot, but in the right style
Exactly how it looked, apart from the problem with horizontals and perspective
A
--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
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jeffharris
Forum Pro
A do a lot of interior shooting with my GX8 and the 7-14mm f4 in very low light, for work and travel.
Set the aperture to f4 and crank up the ISO to 3200, rest the camera on my bag in front of me. No problems at all. I may do a little minor noise reduction in Capture One, but that's it.
For architectural work for finished projects, I'll use a tripod and wired shutter release at base ISO, f5.6 and slow shutter speeds. No noise issues there.
Jacques Cornell
Forum Pro
Mine was nicely sharp wide-open, but a bit better at f5.6. Diffraction began to reduce detail at f8.
Video Imager
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A bit pricy, but using a Gh6/G9II I find the PL 8-18mm a very good lens. Used a 35mm as my normal lens in film days, find this lens perfect for me in the city.
the bluesman
Senior Member
The 7-14 f2.8 is by far the best as you can photograph 3 rooms with a single click of the shutter so if your shooting let's say real estate, that saves you time and money
One of my first shots with my then new 7-14mm while checking out a mates new house
One of my first shots with my then new 7-14mm while checking out a mates new house
ChristopherIQ
Active member
These look great Sam. I like how contrast that is added, the organic quality to the grain and the adjustment to the tree line. I'm a fan of texture. Beautiful area, too. I live in flat suburbs and need to travel north to see scenery remotely similar to this.Yeah I use a variety of techniques to emphasize things. My most commonly used SnapSeed "Look" involves (in order in which they're applied):Ah got it!Yeah, again this looks consistent with my post processing in SnapSeed. I use the "Lens Blur" tool with a radial mask that I change according to the area I want to bring attention to.Look at the sudden transition to blur at both edges, more on the left than right.Flare isn't the big problem with this lens, it's ghosting.I've seen much worse flare on wide-angle lenses. The Nikkor 16-35/4 produced a purple streak across the entire diagonal.I mean, ultimately it depends on what you're going for. Sometimes it can look pretty cool and add some drama to a shot...
But for me, I had it kind of ruin a few shots with ghosts on people's faces, etc. It isn't a bad lens by any means, but the 8-25 overall is just a better package for my use.
I wouldn't judge sharpness with this photo. I routinely add blur to my photos, so not sure what I added here, if anything.
You may also notice some graininess here - again, added intentionally in SnapSeed.
I tend to use vignetting for that.
A
Not my best photo, but one from this weekend - here's the before/after with all of effects mentioned above and a bit of "healing" to remove the fencing.
- Adjust - Brightness, Saturation (typically boosting since I reduce saturation in my default SooC settings to prevent blowing out channels), small WB tweaks
- Lens Blur - Typically radial, adjust to the point I want to emphasize. Ideally adjusted to compliment the DoF that is already in the photo.
- Vignette - Again, typically around the area I want to emphasize. Sometimes this is removed entirely if it's causing weird issues with highlights in the corners.
- Drama - Provide a little punch to the subject, typically throw a mask solely on the subject
- Details - Similar to Drama - add a little punch to the subject, usually the same mask
- Film - Add a little grain to tie the image together and try to mitigate the lens blur from looking so obvious. Also use the actual film "look", but typically at 40-50% strength to alter color balance.
Not super happy with the tonality of the sky in this shot, but you get the idea. This was a quick set of photos (processed on my phone during the ride home) for the owners of a horse rescue so they can use them on social media.
As for Snap Seed, I've enjoyed that for many years now. Once upon a time, I used the NIK filters too - there is some relationship there (I think Google acquired Nik, and with that Snap Seed, IIR).
Today I went for a random walk in a state park that I haven't visited before. It ended up being a bunch of dead sticks - not much to look at but I had my camera with me. I only had about 15 minutes to spare so I figured I'd take a break from the car and grab the camera. I was hopeful, but once I hit the trail I thought - "well, this is boring" lol.
Here's an example SOOC using color creator, and then ACR. The picture of the lake is from another park, aside correcting the horizon, is SOOC.
Dead sticks, SOOC - EP7, custom color profile, 12-40/2.8
Processed in ACR
Aside from the horizon being corrected, this is SOOC from the EP7 and 12-40/2.8
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---- Chris
They are both pretty reliable and have been around for quite a while. They still fill optical slots that are not well covered by native lenses.
However most prefer to use M4/3 mount lenses and simply complain when they cannot find precisely what they need or think that they need.
I just point out work-arounds. I have been happy with my Sigma DC lenses in EF mount and of course I have already invested in the adapters and how is effectively enough just to invest in one adapter type for many lenses that we could have to adapt.
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