Quick Disconnect for Power Bank

Victor Engel

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Previously, I was using a USB-C magnetic quick disconnect, leaving a small component attached to the camera. That worked fine, but, although it's small, it left a small piece in the camera preventing the rubber from covering the ports. Additionally, this small component is hard to grab, so difficult to remove once in place.



Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

So, to resolve that issue, I added one more component, a USB-C right-angle connector.



USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed

USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed



Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Here is the right-angle connector plugged into the camera. This is easy to remove, compared to the small magnetic quick-disconnect item shown earlier.





Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Here is the quick disconnect connected to the right angle connector. I'm a bit surprised it doesn't go into the right angle connector farther that it does. It must have to do with the right angle adapter. It does clip into place, though. So I think it's fine. In case someone trips over the cable, the components easily come apart at the interface at the black. Here's what the quick disconnect looks like when disconnected:





Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

For the photo I had to keep them this far apart because they're magnetically attracted to each other.

A cable with USB-C connector plugs into the bottom of the component on the left. The other end plugs into the power bank:



Plugged into power bank

Plugged into power bank

Here it's plugged into the 65W port. It's the same one used to power the camera as to charge the power bank.

--
Victor Engel
 
Previously, I was using a USB-C magnetic quick disconnect, leaving a small component attached to the camera. That worked fine, but, although it's small, it left a small piece in the camera preventing the rubber from covering the ports. Additionally, this small component is hard to grab, so difficult to remove once in place.

Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

So, to resolve that issue, I added one more component, a USB-C right-angle connector.

USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed

USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed

Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Here is the right-angle connector plugged into the camera. This is easy to remove, compared to the small magnetic quick-disconnect item shown earlier.

Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Here is the quick disconnect connected to the right angle connector. I'm a bit surprised it doesn't go into the right angle connector farther that it does. It must have to do with the right angle adapter. It does clip into place, though. So I think it's fine. In case someone trips over the cable, the components easily come apart at the interface at the black. Here's what the quick disconnect looks like when disconnected:

Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

For the photo I had to keep them this far apart because they're magnetically attracted to each other.

A cable with USB-C connector plugs into the bottom of the component on the left. The other end plugs into the power bank:

Plugged into power bank

Plugged into power bank

Here it's plugged into the 65W port. It's the same one used to power the camera as to charge the power bank.

--
Victor Engel
Looks an interesting solution. I had thought after yesterday's chatter about dummy batteries is to go that route and use the thread route in the grip to bring the cable out. Doesn't look so handy for the r52 (shows restricted shooting modes - bit odd as it's compatible with the fan grip but hey for.

For the r5 and a grip https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/product/kingma-usb-c-to-dummy-battery-adapter-canon-lp-e6/
 
Victor,

After 10 months, I'm convinced to try a magnetic USB-C as an emergency backup for my R5m2. I decided to go with the model linked below, as it features a right-angle design and includes a plastic tool for removing the one in the USB-C socket (so no need for the two-connector setup you showed). I like that the right angle will cause the USB-C cable to dangle down rather than out.

I have three "P" batteries and a Neewer USB-C charger that I have verified can fully charge them (likely taking 3-4 hours for one battery with a PD battery pack, so it would be like having 4+ batteries). The magnetic USB would be my "last resort" to go straight to the power pack (Aker 10,000 mA 65W PD) in my pocket with a cable to the camera.

I'm going to Europe to an Air Show, and after some testing, I am a bit worried about the power consumption of the R5m2 with pre-shooting and long bursts. In the past, with my R5, it would go through two "NH" batteries in a day's shooting, taking about 8,000 shots.

I think this, in addition to the Neewer charger, may be overkill, but what is another $20 at this point? It will be worth it for the peace of mind.




fff3df8b1fae4e5e85cb36014645537d.jpg


Previously, I was using a USB-C magnetic quick disconnect, leaving a small component attached to the camera. That worked fine, but, although it's small, it left a small piece in the camera preventing the rubber from covering the ports. Additionally, this small component is hard to grab, so difficult to remove once in place.

Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

Removable component of the quick disconnect, plugged into the camera's USB-C port

So, to resolve that issue, I added one more component, a USB-C right-angle connector.

USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed

USB-C right angle connector rated at the power and communications needed

Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Right angle connector plugged into the camera

Here is the right-angle connector plugged into the camera. This is easy to remove, compared to the small magnetic quick-disconnect item shown earlier.

Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Quick-disconnect plugged into the right-angle adapter (not sure why it's not flush but seems fine)

Here is the quick disconnect connected to the right angle connector. I'm a bit surprised it doesn't go into the right angle connector farther that it does. It must have to do with the right angle adapter. It does clip into place, though. So I think it's fine. In case someone trips over the cable, the components easily come apart at the interface at the black. Here's what the quick disconnect looks like when disconnected:

Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

Quick disconnect in disconnected state - they are held firmly together magnetically when connected

For the photo I had to keep them this far apart because they're magnetically attracted to each other.

A cable with USB-C connector plugs into the bottom of the component on the left. The other end plugs into the power bank:

Plugged into power bank

Plugged into power bank

Here it's plugged into the 65W port. It's the same one used to power the camera as to charge the power bank.
 
Victor,

After 10 months, I'm convinced to try a magnetic USB-C as an emergency backup for my R5m2. I decided to go with the model linked below, as it features a right-angle design and includes a plastic tool for removing the one in the USB-C socket (so no need for the two-connector setup you showed). I like that the right angle will cause the USB-C cable to dangle down rather than out.
Yeah, I looked for one like that and didn't find it at the time I made my purchase. That plastic puller tool would be handy.
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

 
I have one of those but mine doesn't detach if the cable gets tripped in the same way. Instead it can take out the battery door, which might be better than the USB socket I guess.

The other thing is the camera doesn't stay on - the battery is still in the camera with the usb option if it gets detached.
 
I have one of those but mine doesn't detach if the cable gets tripped in the same way. Instead it can take out the battery door, which might be better than the USB socket I guess.

The other thing is the camera doesn't stay on - the battery is still in the camera with the usb option if it gets detached.
That's true, unless you run it in a grip in the single slot allowed, but I think the point is power delivery (increased) and safety to the port on the camera.

A grip, battery, coupler, wires, power bank isn't terribly portable - more video rig centric perhaps.

I don't have one for the R52 but we did have for our R5s as a route to understand what it did, and a way to measure both USB PD and battery usage to help characterise the camera.

Usually operate with 2 batteries in a grip, a bunch of spare batteries and a multi charger connected to a power bank. That said, 9 batteries on one day is a record where another solution may have been better (offloading images via WiFi on top of normal shooting all day takes quite a bit of extra juice).

Always interesting to see the different routes people are solving problems. Appreciated.
 
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Cheers. Ill be doing a 6 hour boat trip for pelagics soon so Im trying to decide if it will be insanity or not to try this as an option.

Might be safer to stick to batteries and charging as it would still mean the rubber flap for the ports is uncovered and salt water is the devil.
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

https://www.canon.co.uk/store/canon-dr-e6p-dc-coupler/6576C001/
I'm not sure what more power would be useful for, unless maybe WIFI. In my testing, the camera was fully functional on the power brick with a dead battery in the camera. I was not using WIFI, nor do I ever with my camera. The only camera I use with wifi is my security camera set up to record activity around my owl box. I'm not likely to repeat the dead battery test again.

Anyway, when I first came up with this solution, the batteries were not available on their own, so it was a solution for that issue as well. That obviously is no longer an issue.
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

https://www.canon.co.uk/store/canon-dr-e6p-dc-coupler/6576C001/
I'm not sure what more power would be useful for, unless maybe WIFI.
When the port isn't capable of delivering all of the power.
In my testing, the camera was fully functional on the power brick with a dead battery in the camera. I was not using WIFI, nor do I ever with my camera. The only camera I use with wifi is my security camera set up to record activity around my owl box. I'm not likely to repeat the dead battery test again.
Anyway, when I first came up with this solution, the batteries were not available on their own, so it was a solution for that issue as well. That obviously is no longer an issue.
DC couplers were available at launch in the UK for the R52, not sure about the R5 I didn't get one at the very first days/weeks of launch.

It allows for ports to remain covered up in some cases.

Advice aimed at all users.
--
Victor Engel
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

https://www.canon.co.uk/store/canon-dr-e6p-dc-coupler/6576C001/
I'm not sure what more power would be useful for, unless maybe WIFI.
When the port isn't capable of delivering all of the power.
In my testing, the camera was fully functional on the power brick with a dead battery in the camera. I was not using WIFI, nor do I ever with my camera. The only camera I use with wifi is my security camera set up to record activity around my owl box. I'm not likely to repeat the dead battery test again.
Anyway, when I first came up with this solution, the batteries were not available on their own, so it was a solution for that issue as well. That obviously is no longer an issue.
DC couplers were available at launch in the UK for the R52, not sure about the R5 I didn't get one at the very first days/weeks of launch.

It allows for ports to remain covered up in some cases.

Advice aimed at all users.
That does not align with Canon's documentation. See the USB power section in the manual https://cam.start.canon/en/C017/manual/html/UG-10_Reference_0040.html

"To power the camera without charging batteries, set the camera power switch to

icon_p-on.svg


."

There's no indication that I can find of any features being unavailable. Batteries are charged when the camera turns off.

--
Victor Engel
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

https://www.canon.co.uk/store/canon-dr-e6p-dc-coupler/6576C001/
I'm not sure what more power would be useful for, unless maybe WIFI.
When the port isn't capable of delivering all of the power.
In my testing, the camera was fully functional on the power brick with a dead battery in the camera. I was not using WIFI, nor do I ever with my camera. The only camera I use with wifi is my security camera set up to record activity around my owl box. I'm not likely to repeat the dead battery test again.
Anyway, when I first came up with this solution, the batteries were not available on their own, so it was a solution for that issue as well. That obviously is no longer an issue.
DC couplers were available at launch in the UK for the R52, not sure about the R5 I didn't get one at the very first days/weeks of launch.

It allows for ports to remain covered up in some cases.

Advice aimed at all users.
That does not align with Canon's documentation. See the USB power section in the manual https://cam.start.canon/en/C017/manual/html/UG-10_Reference_0040.html

"To power the camera without charging batteries, set the camera power switch to

icon_p-on.svg


."
There's no indication that I can find of any features being unavailable. Batteries are charged when the camera turns off.
It does align.

A feature, such as protecting the USB port and surrounding with the environmental protective flap would be a lost feature.

I am very content with the detailed work we have completed for electrical PSU, EMC and thermal analysis for the R5.

Canon haven't described this; it would be somewhat within the IP of the camera design. We required to know this for a project.
--
Victor Engel
 
What a clever idea, Ive always been nervous using cables other than for passive charging.

The only one like this i have I have flashy led's on the cables which may not be ideal for wildlife, but I will try this out as a concept for sure.
The DC couplers are another potential solution. They (at least this one) can provide more power than a USB port solution but does also have to double up as the battery.

https://www.canon.co.uk/store/canon-dr-e6p-dc-coupler/6576C001/
I'm not sure what more power would be useful for, unless maybe WIFI.
When the port isn't capable of delivering all of the power.
In my testing, the camera was fully functional on the power brick with a dead battery in the camera. I was not using WIFI, nor do I ever with my camera. The only camera I use with wifi is my security camera set up to record activity around my owl box. I'm not likely to repeat the dead battery test again.
Anyway, when I first came up with this solution, the batteries were not available on their own, so it was a solution for that issue as well. That obviously is no longer an issue.
DC couplers were available at launch in the UK for the R52, not sure about the R5 I didn't get one at the very first days/weeks of launch.

It allows for ports to remain covered up in some cases.

Advice aimed at all users.
That does not align with Canon's documentation. See the USB power section in the manual https://cam.start.canon/en/C017/manual/html/UG-10_Reference_0040.html

"To power the camera without charging batteries, set the camera power switch to

icon_p-on.svg


."
There's no indication that I can find of any features being unavailable. Batteries are charged when the camera turns off.
It does align.

A feature, such as protecting the USB port and surrounding with the environmental protective flap would be a lost feature.
This is a change of subject as Victor was responding to your comment (quoting below):
When the port isn't capable of delivering all of the power.
There is no indication that any features are lost due to not enough power when powering via USB-C.

The biggest functionality "loss" I see is that if you have a USB-C cable in the C-Port, it interferes with the back display. You can still tilt it some, but you can't flip it over without unplugging the Cable. I think you would still be OK with just the magnetic USB-C adapter plugged in.

The flapper door on the R5m2 can still cover the HDMI port with just the magnetic adapter plugged in. The magnetic plug would cover the USB-C port. The R5 flapper door design is different and cannot cover the HDMI port, even with only the magnetic USB-C adapter installed.

Note that any idea of "sealing" up the area with the R5m2 flapper door seems kind of moot, as the flapper door goes right around the cooling air holes on the R5m2.

BTW, I did verify that if you have an "NP" battery in the R5m2, you will lose features that only work with the "P" battery when powering it via USB-C.

I also noticed that with a fully charged battery, the R5m2 does not draw any power from the USB-C port, and the battery indicator will remain white. Only once the battery has been more than slightly discharged will the battery indicator on the display turn gray, indicating that the USB-C port is powering the camera. (This was a little concerning for me as I was not sure my power bank was working at first with the R5m2 as it had a fully charged battery in it and was working differently than my R5, which had a somewhat discharged battery in it.)

Is there any other way of knowing that the USB-C connection is powering the camera other than using a power meter or seeing the grayed-out power indicator on the display?

BTW, I had forgotten that the R5 and R5m2 do not charge the battery when powered via the C-Port and the camera is ON (it had been years since I tried it on the R5). I have not tested this, but I read that the battery will still discharge very slowly with the camera on when powered by USB-C. Therefore, one may not want to wait to use the USB-C port until the battery is nearly flat.

I am very content with the detailed work we have completed for electrical PSU, EMC and thermal analysis for the R5.

Canon haven't described this; it would be somewhat within the IP of the camera design. We required to know this for a project.
 
"Note that any idea of "sealing" up the area with the R5m2 flapper door seems kind of moot, as the flapper door goes right around the cooling air holes on the R5m2."

I suspect any ingress of salt water into any air holes and HDMI ports or the like might be pretty different in possible outcomes, my understanding is its a sealed pipe inside for the cooling.

Not that Id want to test it in practise, but I'd still be using whatever covers I could if I had the choice in boat situations.
 
"Note that any idea of "sealing" up the area with the R5m2 flapper door seems kind of moot, as the flapper door goes right around the cooling air holes on the R5m2."

I suspect any ingress of salt water into any air holes and HDMI ports or the like might be pretty different in possible outcomes, my understanding is its a sealed pipe inside for the cooling.
A mistake on my part. You are correct; there is a sealed-off, L-shaped chamber between the bottom vent and this side vent. It can be seen in this teardown photo (the chamber is white with a black seal strip, and the metal plate that covers/seals the chamber is below it): https://kolarivision.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Lifestyle-Photos_20223159.jpg
Not that Id want to test it in practise, but I'd still be using whatever covers I could if I had the choice in boat situations.
Agreed, if it's a wet or rainy location.

For me, this will be an emergency backup if the R5m2 runs through my three "P" batteries, plus my ability to recharge them with a USB-C Neewer charger. In my quick test, the R5m2 appears to drain its batteries faster than the R5, which concerns me for an upcoming trip/air show. My R5 would go through about 2 "NH" batteries in a day of shooting (about 8,000 pictures). With pre-shooting and a higher frame rate, I'm wondering if three "P" batteries will be enough.
 
Victor,

After 10 months, I'm convinced to try a magnetic USB-C as an emergency backup for my R5m2. I decided to go with the model linked below, as it features a right-angle design and includes a plastic tool for removing the one in the USB-C socket (so no need for the two-connector setup you showed). I like that the right angle will cause the USB-C cable to dangle down rather than out.
Yeah, I looked for one like that and didn't find it at the time I made my purchase. That plastic puller tool would be handy.
I got the kit today (link below), which included two right angles with 2 magnetic couplers and the removal tool.

The removal tool did not work as intended because there is a step-down recess around the R5 & R5m2 cover areas. You have to remove it from the sides with only one ear of the tool. The step-down lip of the adapter encircles the entire part, allowing Mark-1 finger nails to remove it without difficulty. A plastic pry tool also works well (used on one end and pressing with a fingernail on the other side).

Victor - does your adapter part have the same lip/step-up, or does it go flat against the USB-C port in the camera?

Something nice I wasn't expecting is that there is an LED that lights up in the right-angle portion when it is getting power.

With the right angle installed, it interferes with the back display tilt if the display is open. However, if you remove the right-angle part, the remaining adapter does not interfere with the connection.

I would say the magnet strength seems about the right amount. It will clearly release before applying much force to the USB port, but it takes a bit of pulling for it to let go if the cable is pulled downward (due to the weight of the cable, for example), because of the way it wraps around the adapter, but not so much force that I think it would break the camera's USB-C port or pull it off a tripod.

Unfortunately, with just the adapter installed, neither the R5 nor R5m2 cover flap will close to cover the HDMI port.

I definitely prefer this solution over the Canon-supplied kludge screw protector. It feels much safer and removes the risk of damaging the camera if the USB-C cable gets pulled.

36dce43c470044c9bc7c0c0f165a3578.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DSDHRZC5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2XNDEO9JT1Z9E&th=1
 
I bought a pair to see how it works, I didn't realise you could get them as adapters for any USB-C cables, so thank you all very much for this. If nothing else Ill use them on my laptop for something I remove a lot.
 


I also noticed that with a fully charged battery, the R5m2 does not draw any power from the USB-C port, and the battery indicator will remain white. Only once the battery has been more than slightly discharged will the battery indicator on the display turn gray, indicating that the USB-C port is powering the camera. (This was a little concerning for me as I was not sure my power bank was working at first with the R5m2 as it had a fully charged battery in it and was working differently than my R5, which had a somewhat discharged battery in it.)
I conducted further testing, and I believe the result above was somehow related to my USB-C power meter. I thought I had checked without the power meter, but apparently I did not.

On further testing, it does appear that if the R5m2 has a fully charged battery and you connect a PD USB-C power supply, the camera will run off the USB-C port and gray-out the battery bars on the back/viewfinder display (the only indication I know of that the camera being powered off the USB-C port) when the camera is on.
 
Victor - does your adapter part have the same lip/step-up, or does it go flat against the USB-C port in the camera?
I'm not sure I understand the question. Does this photo answer it?



Protective cover pulled back slightly to reveal details

Protective cover pulled back slightly to reveal details



--
Victor Engel
 

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