Selecting pictures on R5 Mark ii

wbcamera

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With the pre capture and 30 fps I'm burning through 5000 photos quickly. I start to star (Rate) the pictures. My thought is the protect the starred photos and delete the others so I don't have a ridiculous number being imported onto my HDD.

How do protect the starred photos?

How do you scroll through only the starred photos?

Any better ideas on the process?
 
With the pre capture and 30 fps I'm burning through 5000 photos quickly. I start to star (Rate) the pictures. My thought is the protect the starred photos and delete the others so I don't have a ridiculous number being imported onto my HDD.

How do protect the starred photos?

How do you scroll through only the starred photos?

Any better ideas on the process?
Yes. I sort by stars in DPP4, Lightroom also honors the star system. Copy off only what’s a star or higher. Culling in camera by star-ing keepers is my go-to.
 
With the pre capture and 30 fps I'm burning through 5000 photos quickly. I start to star (Rate) the pictures. My thought is the protect the starred photos and delete the others so I don't have a ridiculous number being imported onto my HDD.

How do protect the starred photos?

How do you scroll through only the starred photos?

Any better ideas on the process?
Yes. I sort by stars in DPP4, Lightroom also honors the star system. Copy off only what’s a star or higher. Culling in camera by star-ing keepers is my go-to.
I don't have the R5II but I had the R5 and now have the R6II and R7. I don't rate using the camera but if I have time I'll delete OOF, etc shots.

I also use DPP to pre-cull files before importing to LrC. Currently I only delete unwanted files but I will give rating a shot since LrC honours it.
 
With the pre capture and 30 fps I'm burning through 5000 photos quickly. I start to star (Rate) the pictures. My thought is the protect the starred photos and delete the others so I don't have a ridiculous number being imported onto my HDD.

How do protect the starred photos?

How do you scroll through only the starred photos?

Any better ideas on the process?
I don't use stars until I use LrC yet but using DPP under Edit you can select ratings.



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I use DPP's Quick Check - Full screen mode to delete unwanted files. I press X for the files I don't want. With the Edit menu click on "Select Rejected Images Only" and then File - Move to Trash. Not sure how to protect them.

If you use LrC there are all kinds of options in the metadata field so there are many limits to only see what you want.

--
I roll with pleasing colour
 
I can't find the option to only import starred photos into LR. Don't want to add another software to the mix.

Found this info on the the R5 which also applies the Mark ii

Select the star rated photos in the camera and protect only the selected photos. Then delete the photos that are not protected.

Only confusion is dealing with multiple folders. Do you select each folder and then do search conditions/protect selected images or can you search across all folders with the search conditions?
 
I'm surprised to hear that people cull in-camera based on the EVF or screen. I could never do that because the camera's display isn't detailed enough compared to my computer screen. Many times an image will look sharp on the camera's screen (even after magnifying) only to find out later focus is misplaced. Similarly it's difficult for me to select between two similar pictures with slight different background movement -- for example a duck splashing. I never look at my shots in the field, because it just takes time from shooting and it's not like I can reshoot if I missed.

I'm still getting my sea legs with the R52 too and know what you mean about picture bloat. The first thing I did was dial back from 30 to 20 FPS. There will be times when 30 FPS will be more useful but 20 is fine for most birding and animal opportunities, and like you said, I have no need or time for 1/3 more culling workload.

As for pre-shooting, my muscle memory is only do a full press when ready to shoot since I use BBF, so I'm still trying to train myself to half-press when shooting perched birds, so that hasn't created a glut of photos for me yet. Also since I dialed back to 20FPS pre-shooting only takes 10 shots that's 5 frames less there too when I remember to use it.
 
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I'm surprised to hear that people cull in-camera based on the EVF or screen. I could never do that because the camera's display isn't detailed enough compared to my computer screen. Many times an image will look sharp on the camera's screen (even after magnifying) only to find out later focus is misplaced. Similarly it's difficult for me to select between two similar pictures with slight different background movement -- for example a duck splashing. I never look at my shots in the field, because it just takes time from shooting and it's not like I can reshoot if I missed.

I'm still getting my sea legs with the R52 too and know what you mean about picture bloat. The first thing I did was dial back from 30 to 20 FPS. There will be times when 30 FPS will be more useful but 20 is fine for most birding and animal opportunities, and like you said, I have no need or time for 1/3 more culling workload.

As for pre-shooting, my muscle memory is only do a full press when ready to shoot since I use BBF, so I'm still trying to train myself to half-press when shooting perched birds, so that hasn't created a glut of photos for me yet. Also since I dialed back to 20FPS pre-shooting only takes 10 shots that's 5 frames less there too when I remember to use it.
The focus is amazing on this camera so I'm not as worried about the eye being out of focus. Cutting back to 20 fps is something to consider. Can see lighting on the bird and wing/head position star those. Select the starred photos and then protect them. Delete all the others so I'm critically view a smaller number. I agree in the past I downloaded the entire card and did the culling on my computer monitor but I think the workflow has to be adjusted.
 

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