35-70 vs 32-64 for landscape/walkaround

I have the 50R camera and 23, 50, 32-64, and 100-200 lenses. My backup system is Sony 7r4, 16-35 GM and 100-400 GM.

With the 35-70 current sale, I tempt to pick it up for its lightweight and small size.

When I go out shooting landscape, I normally bring 32-64 and Sony 16-35, and leave 23 home. I hate to bring both 23 and 32-64 since they are both heavy.

If i buy the 35-70 then I think I may bring the 23 or Sony 16-35 and 35-70. The 35-70 is not wide enough for landscape. My only concern is the sharpness/rendering of the 35-70. Will it be as good as the 32-64. When I shoot landscape I use tripod most of the time.

When travel in city like Tokyo, I will use the 50, or the 35-70 if it's capable. If shoot at night, I may use Sony 16-35 GM.

Any comments or advice are welcome. Thanks.
 
Sorry about that empty post - my slow satellite Internet hung up.

Based on all the diversity of opinion in this thread, I would say there's some lens copy variability, OR we're all pixel-peeping at such high X that we're bound to see some differences. I have used the GF 23mm, 20-35mm, 32-64mm, 35-70mm, and 45-100mm, and they're all very good. I frequently don't have to do any chromatic aberration correction in post, whereas that was common with FF lenses.
 
Couldn’t agree more. Gfx is the antacid for my gas.


tdl53 wrote:

Sorry about that empty post - my slow satellite Internet hung up.

Based on all the diversity of opinion in this thread, I would say there's some lens copy variability, OR we're all pixel-peeping at such high X that we're bound to see some differences. I have used the GF 23mm, 20-35mm, 32-64mm, 35-70mm, and 45-100mm, and they're all very good. I frequently don't have to do any chromatic aberration correction in post, whereas that was common with FF lenses
 
I've tried almost all the GFX lenses and bought the 100S to gain in detail and resolution. The use of zooms seems counter-intuitive since the larger captor would be begging for exceptional glass. The question one has to ask is do you want an ability to enlarge an image with just passable sharpness or do you want the image to really pop and maximize the full potential of that wonderful captor of 100m pixels...

Using 3rd party lenses or adapting analog lenses for digital captor is a slippery slope. Of all my close friends who are optics experts, some of whom design elite optics for satellites etc, all tell me the exact same thing - that the exit bundling of the light in analog lenses is not compatible with the requirements of a digital captor. I tested an Apo Makro Planar (Contax) 120mm vs the Fuji 120mm Macro using the exact same scene / camera and the Fuji out-performed it by an observable margin. The GF 30mm however is not the best lens in the Fuji lineup and I found that the 35mm Zeiss (Contax) Distagon performs excellently. I own the 45-100mm GF zoom which doesn't compare to the fixed focal length lenses either. I was extremely disappointed by the 32-64mm GF... Since my images are detail-driven and the rendering of each element is critical, I stay away from zooms and confirmed this after testing the Fuji GF lineup. I will be selling my 45-100mm which gets no use. I would hesitate to use the GFX cameras for handheld images - with the depth of field constraints and need for spontaneity an APS-C sized captor would be best - the lenses are much smaller and have an inherent depth of field which is far more manageable. I would imagine many of the contributors to this forum do handheld photography and accept the slight loss of image quality that occurs from camera shake or using a less than optimum aperture but my work is all done on a tripod and for still life photography, one does not "dumb down" IQ with a zoom when there are fixed focal length lenses which outperform them hands down.
 
I've tried almost all the GFX lenses and bought the 100S to gain in detail and resolution. The use of zooms seems counter-intuitive since the larger captor would be begging for exceptional glass. The question one has to ask is do you want an ability to enlarge an image with just passable sharpness or do you want the image to really pop and maximize the full potential of that wonderful captor of 100m pixels...
There is no utility in using a lens so sharp that it causes aliasing on the sensor you’re using.
Using 3rd party lenses or adapting analog lenses for digital captor is a slippery slope. Of all my close friends who are optics experts, some of whom design elite optics for satellites etc, all tell me the exact same thing - that the exit bundling of the light in analog lenses is not compatible with the requirements of a digital captor.
Whether that is an issue depends on the lens design. It is hardly ever a problem with lenses designed for SLR flange focal distances, unless used outside their design coverage.



I tested an Apo Makro Planar (Contax) 120mm vs the Fuji 120mm Macro using the exact same scene / camera and the Fuji out-performed it by an observable margin. The GF 30mm however is not the best lens in the Fuji lineup and I found that the 35mm Zeiss (Contax) Distagon performs excellently. I own the 45-100mm GF zoom which doesn't compare to the fixed focal length lenses either. I was extremely disappointed by the 32-64mm GF... Since my images are detail-driven and the rendering of each element is critical, I stay away from zooms and confirmed this after testing the Fuji GF lineup. I will be selling my 45-100mm which gets no use. I would hesitate to use the GFX cameras for handheld images - with the depth of field constraints and need for spontaneity an APS-C sized captor would be best - the lenses are much smaller and have an inherent depth of field which is far more manageable. I would imagine many of the contributors to this forum do handheld photography and accept the slight loss of image quality that occurs from camera shake or using a less than optimum aperture but my work is all done on a tripod and for still life photography, one does not "dumb down" IQ with a zoom when there are fixed focal length lenses which outperform them hands down.
 
I've tried almost all the GFX lenses and bought the 100S to gain in detail and resolution. The use of zooms seems counter-intuitive since the larger captor would be begging for exceptional glass. The question one has to ask is do you want an ability to enlarge an image with just passable sharpness or do you want the image to really pop and maximize the full potential of that wonderful captor of 100m pixels...

Using 3rd party lenses or adapting analog lenses for digital captor is a slippery slope. Of all my close friends who are optics experts, some of whom design elite optics for satellites etc, all tell me the exact same thing - that the exit bundling of the light in analog lenses is not compatible with the requirements of a digital captor. I tested an Apo Makro Planar (Contax) 120mm vs the Fuji 120mm Macro using the exact same scene / camera and the Fuji out-performed it by an observable margin. The GF 30mm however is not the best lens in the Fuji lineup and I found that the 35mm Zeiss (Contax) Distagon performs excellently. I own the 45-100mm GF zoom which doesn't compare to the fixed focal length lenses either. I was extremely disappointed by the 32-64mm GF... Since my images are detail-driven and the rendering of each element is critical, I stay away from zooms and confirmed this after testing the Fuji GF lineup. I will be selling my 45-100mm which gets no use. I would hesitate to use the GFX cameras for handheld images - with the depth of field constraints and need for spontaneity an APS-C sized captor would be best - the lenses are much smaller and have an inherent depth of field which is far more manageable. I would imagine many of the contributors to this forum do handheld photography and accept the slight loss of image quality that occurs from camera shake or using a less than optimum aperture but my work is all done on a tripod and for still life photography, one does not "dumb down" IQ with a zoom when there are fixed focal length lenses which outperform them hands down.
I've always found this theory (use primes for optimal IQ) a conundrum. More often than not, when I am shooting a prime in the field, I end up cropping the image. Sometimes slightly, but other times significantly. For a handful of reasons, but the most obvious being I'm physically unable to frame the composition how I want. So is the marginally better IQ in the corners worth giving up the resolution that gets tossed out?

I don't have the answer. Just noting that it's not an idea that should be easily discounted from my experience.
 
I have the 50R camera and 23, 50, 32-64, and 100-200 lenses. My backup system is Sony 7r4, 16-35 GM and 100-400 GM.

With the 35-70 current sale, I tempt to pick it up for its lightweight and small size.

When I go out shooting landscape, I normally bring 32-64 and Sony 16-35, and leave 23 home. I hate to bring both 23 and 32-64 since they are both heavy.

If i buy the 35-70 then I think I may bring the 23 or Sony 16-35 and 35-70. The 35-70 is not wide enough for landscape. My only concern is the sharpness/rendering of the 35-70. Will it be as good as the 32-64. When I shoot landscape I use tripod most of the time.

When travel in city like Tokyo, I will use the 50, or the 35-70 if it's capable. If shoot at night, I may use Sony 16-35 GM.

Any comments or advice are welcome. Thanks.
I had both but I ditched 35-70mm for portrait uses. However, if you gonna use it for landscape then 35-70 is better.
 
I don't know how someone could say one or the other is better for landscape. There are no rules for landscape photography. There's no one definition. Some people will prefer wider focal lengths, others will prefer longer ones. This alone should decide which of these lenses you choose, if either.

Any differences in optical quality are insignificant compared with the differences in focal length.
 
I don't know how someone could say one or the other is better for landscape. There are no rules for landscape photography. There's no one definition. Some people will prefer wider focal lengths, others will prefer longer ones. This alone should decide which of these lenses you choose, if either.

Any differences in optical quality are insignificant compared with the differences in focal length.
The 32-64 is known for suffering from field curvature which can cause problems in landscapes. But I don’t know how the 35-70 compares here. Might it have less?
 
I don't know how someone could say one or the other is better for landscape. There are no rules for landscape photography. There's no one definition. Some people will prefer wider focal lengths, others will prefer longer ones. This alone should decide which of these lenses you choose, if either.

Any differences in optical quality are insignificant compared with the differences in focal length.
The 32-64 is known for suffering from field curvature which can cause problems in landscapes. But I don’t know how the 35-70 compares here. Might it have less?
I had this problem with most of my Nikon lenses, which is one reason I sold that system. I have not seen any problems in the real world with field curvature and the 32-64.
 
I don't know how someone could say one or the other is better for landscape. There are no rules for landscape photography. There's no one definition. Some people will prefer wider focal lengths, others will prefer longer ones. This alone should decide which of these lenses you choose, if either.

Any differences in optical quality are insignificant compared with the differences in focal length.
The 32-64 is known for suffering from field curvature which can cause problems in landscapes. But I don’t know how the 35-70 compares here. Might it have less?
I had this problem with most of my Nikon lenses, which is one reason I sold that system. I have not seen any problems in the real world with field curvature and the 32-64.
The comments at the end of Jim’s test are interesting.

 

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