2023 big year for Fuji?

michaeladawson wrote:

Jerry-astro wrote:

michaeladawson wrote:

Jerry-astro wrote:

Forgive me, but I never cease to be amazed at the things people choose to whine about here. So, hitting the ISO button, stepping through the ISO levels, and then pressing OK feels like too complex a set of operations for you? Wow. I can’t disagree that there might be some overall ergonomic improvements that could be pursued with X-H2S, but “shameful,” “poor ergonomics,” “lost credibility” feels like a lot of overpositioning to me. I can’t speak to video AF, since I’m strictly a stills shooter, but sorry, I’m not buying it.

Jerry, if that's how changing ISO works then I would agree with the other poster that Fujifilm got it wrong. It may be a minor point, but if I owned an X-H2S that process would bug me no end.

Just compare to Nikon. Press and hold the dedicated ISO button that is next to the shutter release. Spin the back wheel until your desired ISO appears. Let go. Done.

I love my X-E3 and I'll forgive the clumsy operation of going into the menu to change ISO because it's a real scaled back model. But I wouldn't be able to stand the operation described for the X-H2S. Sorry.

OK, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on that. I don't have direct experience with Nikon, but based on your explanation here, I see very little difference in the effort and time required to adjust ISO. Touch the ISO button, hit up or down as needed to set the ISO. If that's not simple enough... well, we'll have to chalk it up to a matter of preference, I suppose, and certainly nothing that would have any influence on a buying decision for me, anyway.

You're missing the extra step of choosing OK. If that is not an accurate outline of the steps I can't say, not owning an X-H2S. But there should be no reason for having to click OK. Press a button. Spin. Done. That's how it should be.

The best sensor performance is at the photodetector base sensitivity which is the base ISO value  of the camera. There is a continual decline in performance above base ISO independent if the value is selected by a photographer, the camera in auto ISO or some nerd after watching too many YouTube videos thinks he can bend the lows if physics to his will.  The best performance will be to pick your exposure components, min shutter speed required for your subject and the min aperture fore the desired DOF and let the camera pick the min ISO required to make the viewfinder bright enough to use. In reality today there is no reason to have an ISO selection beyond base, the ISO of the second level of the dual gain in the sensor ( about 500 to 800 ) and that required for ooc jpegs and or bright EVF. The second and third are handled nicely by auto ISO.

I set my ISO to auto and shoot most of the time at base. In case the light is low the camera will select the ISO with the best photographic dynamic range available based on my min ss setting and aperture.. There is no reason for an ISO dial, wheel, etc,
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