Canon pro 100s printing issues

Jonneymendoza2 wrote:

Jonneymendoza2 wrote:

Simon Garrett wrote:

Jonneymendoza2 wrote:

Simon Garrett wrote:

Jonneymendoza2 wrote:

Simon Garrett wrote:

Jonneymendoza2 wrote:

Simon Garrett wrote:

bmoag wrote:

I agree that the best way to suss out if its the printer or software is to print a test target just using the printer driver, no color management or user changes.

But there are many variables in printer settings. Without knowing the printer driver settings, what will this show?

You could turn off any printer adjustments (in the case of recent Canon printers that means going to the driver, Main -> Color intensity, check manual then Set -> Matching -> None).

That turns off all adjustment in the driver. But with no colour management, that absolutely guarantees false colour unless the image has the same colour space as the printer, which is pretty unlikely. Otherwise the result will depend on what driver settings are.

If that print looks like the one posted the problem is in the printer.

A contaminated/plugged print head is not that hard to fix. No amount of cleaning cycles can fix it, the head needs to be soaked and rinsed, injecting water or cleaner through the most problematic head can speed up the process.

If willing the OP can watch how to remove and clean the print head. That has resurrected Canon printers for me when they sat idle for too long.

I think all bets are off until the OP tells us the brightness to which the monitor is calibrated. The xrite software will say that.

I am currently using DisplayCAL as the Xrite software calibration tool diddnt seem to work correctly on Windows 11 on my machine when i had upgraded it recently.

On my previously installed windows 10, i stil had the same issue with the printer.

How do i check the calibration brightness on DisplayCAL?

On the second tab (Calibration) check "Interactive display adjustment", then set White level as "Custom" and set the white point. If you leave "Interactive display adjustment" unchecked, thatn white level is "as measured". Not sure if it reports the actual measured brightness at the end of calibration, but it should do.

I have done the above and set white level as custom and 120 cd/m2 appears

With is calibrated at 120 cd/m2, how do prints look? If still too dark and dim, then next check is probably colour management.

What software are you using to view images? Does the monitor profile (the one created at 120) show in Windows control panel -> Colour Management as the default profile?

What software are you using to print images? Make sure you do colour management in the print program or the driver but not both (preferably the former).

I am using Lightroom CC

I'm not sure whether that's the cloud-based version (aka "Lightroom" or "Lr" in Adobe documentation) or the stand-alone version (aka "Lightroom Classic" or "LrC"), but I use only Lightroom Classic.

in Lightroom Classic, I find the best way to get reliable colour is to set the printer profile to a profile for the printer and paper being used (as opposed to setting the profile to "Managed by printer") in the print module dialogue:

I assume there's something similar in Lightroom CC version. And I set the printer to "none" in colour adjustment, as I posted earlier, which I think goes for many modern Canon printer drivers:

Provided the monitor is calibrated (to a level of around 100-120 cd/m2) and profiled, and the monitor profile is set at the default profile in Control Panel -> Colour settings, and provided no monitor settings have been altered since, that should produce accurate printed colour that should closely match the screen.

Note the last proviso: after calibration, if you touch any monitor control other than the on/off button, the calibration generally won't be valid. Especially don't change brightness, contrast, colour, gamma or anything that alters the display in any way.

Lightroom classic is what I used.

I don't know if I mentioned it in my original post but I downloaded the colour profile for the paper I use to print on and applied that to the same example drop down box shown in your pic

Here is a sample test print

you can see that you can barely see the yellow... this is a test print on plain paper

My Pro-200, which has similar inks, produces a vertually identical test print.  The yellow is almost invisible viewed under warm light.  It's slightly more visible under daylight or other more light with more blue, but still pretty hard to see.