EOS R6 M2 : few questions after reading the manual

Dual pixel RAW

It gives

1. fine-tune apparent resolution (using depth information)

Above point can possibly be obtained using focus braketing

1. shift the camera viewpoint slightly

Above point - not sure: very rare it'll be required and probably even if executed the word "slightly" normally means: barely noticeable. LOL. I checked some articles and there was this use case where eyes were brought into focus. Really it's like potato / poh-tah-toh.

1. reduce ghosting

I think majority of software gives already sufficient controls to tackle this anyways.

However, one can not use:

1. HDR shooting
2. Multi Shot Noise Reduction
3. Multiple exposures
4. RAW burst mode, continuous super hi-speed drive modes
5. focus bracketing
6. electronic shutter
7. one-touch image quality setting

Thus - personally I feel Dual pixel disadvantages out-weigh the benefits.

HDR PQ

This basically effects the gamma curve of the input signal for displaying HDR images. HDR PQ settings enable the camera to produce HDR images conforming to the PQ specifications, It can capture as HEIF or *RAW images.

Nice Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiAC7Ef0rEo

However - there are limitations.

• Expanded ISO speeds (L, H) are not available in HDR shooting - {This probably can be a show-stopper for some but for most the suggested max out is 12,800 ISO starting from 100. Thus it's not a show-stopper probably for most}
• Some scenes may look different from how they appear on an HDR display device {This is a big-ticket item. If in an HDR display photos look different usually creates problems especially if commercial.... }
• Unused signal values are roughly indicated by image areas in gray in the histogram {This can confuse many ....}
• Disp. performance] defaults to [Smooth] {This is a good thing actually}
• DPREVIEW R5 though: User reports by turning this ON and using the mobile App (iPhone) fails to download RAW files using this option.

Thus - personally I'd test this out (last point) and also any other transfer capabilities like direct from camera to cloud / FTP / etc. and then try opening the files. I'd also verify test shots by trying to load them into both computer / TV displays as-is before deciding if this is worth it. A professional photo print if worth it would be the final step.

HDR Mode

This most already know. However, its clearly mentioned HDR images are captured as HEIFs or JPEGs. So: not *RAW. As others above suggested, using exposure bracketing seems most apt here.

Auto Lighting Optimizer

Brightness and contrast can be corrected automatically if shots look dark or contrast is too low or high. The use case probably will be photos having high contrast i.e. high back-lit areas.

However, the biggest limitations are:

1. Noise may increase.
2. Even if exposure/flash exposure compensation used to darken the exposure, the image may still come out bright.
3. Different shots may need AUTO vs LOW vs HIGH vs Disable. As these are menu items hidden away and needs change POST photo, its cumbersome.

Thus - personally I don't see use case for it, except probably in rare occasions.

Highlight Tone priority

Mostly used to to control over-exposed highlights. Need to take photos (test) of whitish objects and then decide if worth it. I feel there are sufficient controls in post processing software to take care of this.

As it seems mostly used when using HDR PQ = Enable and after going thru some articles, etc. the effect is extremely subtle, personally - I think its best to just keep it off.