How?Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
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How?Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
From a quick scan, I can't see where that article answers BasilG's question.https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/t... & PHOTOGRAPHY,such as your camera's aperture).How?Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
I have seen you weigh in on technical questions with answers that appear to make sense but are not quite right several times. This is one of these cases.To be expected, the quantity of diffracted rays is governed by the circumference of the diafragm. That is where they bend around.
The undiffracted image comes from the remaining diafragmsurface.
So a longer lens, having a larger diafragm (at the same 1/f number) has relatively less surface that produces a diffracted image and more that produces the intended image.
The suggestion might originate from an erroneous interpretation of the point spread function.From a quick scan, I can't see where that article answers BasilG's question.https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/t... & PHOTOGRAPHY,such as your camera's aperture).How?Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
Diffracted rays contribute to all areas of the image.https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/t... & PHOTOGRAPHY,such as your camera's aperture).How?Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
I dont know.Isn't diffraction more likely to occur more in the near center 1/3 of the image?
I guess DXO is adding that correction, or is it only lens abberation and distortion corrections?I'd be interested in seeing examples with and without diffraction correction as well.
Me either. But as I was shooting this very cooperative sbject, I adjusted Aperture , thinking I will see what is sharpest from this lens. Came home and looking at the images, I see similar details and f/19 still had feather details, but my bad test had ISO raised , adding noise and NR into the equasion.I've never really worried about it myself.
Thats are goal ehen we shoot.Getting the fastest exposure with the least amount of noise is stressful enough.![]()
Z 50 has that option too, but as you said only for jpeg, and RAW gives me much better results than jpegs with the cameras I shoot. So that setting not applies to my workflow.To be expected, the quantity of diffracted rays is governed by the circumference of the diafragm. That is where they bend around.
The undiffracted image comes from the remaining diafragmsurface.
So a longer lens, having a larger diafragm (at the same 1/f number) has relatively less surface that produces a diffracted image and more that produces the intended image.
Also, there is a menu-item in the Z6/7: diffraction correction (for .jpg's I think).
I think that setting adds some sharpening, not really offsetting the effects of diffraction, but I see a small gradual degrading of details when stopping down, so diffraction most likely not an issue for me and my gear.And doubtless you can also do that in your raw converter. It has always been on on my camera's. Probably the Nikon default setting.
Thats what I seem to gather..so far.This may be because it is "current internet fashion" to say diffraction is worse than a big bad wolf - when often unless enlarging large with close inspection any loss of image quality is often minor.I don't see the softness I read about..especially at f/19. Thought the details would of been way less.
Indeed.Diffraction is an issue though a relatively minor one compared to depth of field ideal for the subject.Is diffraction an issue , and should one buy faster lenses to avoid it?
Yes, diffraction applies to any lens that can be stopped down enough, but some folk buy faster glass to avoid diffraction, say at f/5.6...so they use a f/4 lens, wishing it was a f/2.8Buying faster lenses is unlikely to be a solution as you can get a diffraction issue if you use smaller apertures on a fast lens.
Perhaps "some folk say" - without first doing real life comparisons instead of repeating what they read on the web.Or does it not effect the final output, in real life, the way folk say it does
Both will have more resolution than my 20MP Z 50Despite "diffraction fears" - you should get more image resolution at f16 from 45 MP than from 24 MP...at least not in a way one would wish they had faster glass or had not stopped down as much ?![]()
Seems to me you still haven't explained only repeated a claimYou're right, and so am I, because diffraction (generally a ripple effect) has 50% more impact on the center of an image than the outer 1/3; depending on the subject, lens, and sensors size.
I try to take a more practical/realistic approach to photography. Will most viewers notice the lighter diffraction across the image? I don't fear or avoid stopping down when I need to. I'm pretty confident a Z lens with diffraction will still provide sharper results than an f-mount lens with it. I'm here to learn and I keep an open mind. If I see an image or example that changes my mind, I will accept any changes/admissions I may need to make.
I'm usually stopping down for reasons that override any concerns with diffraction. I'm sure there are instances where it can be an issue.
Where is your evidemnce for that claim?You're right, and so am I, because diffraction (generally a ripple effect) has 50% more impact on the center of an image than the outer 1/3; depending on the subject, lens, and sensors size.
I'm really not digging my head in the sand on this issue. Every visualization and diagram I have found researching visualizations based on the Airy Disc and the circle of confusion. I haven't seen proof that it doesn't impact the center of the image more than the rest either.Where is your evidemnce for that claim?
Unless you have other sources, I agree with BasilG that you may be misunderstanding something.
These ripples are extremely small (a few pixels at worst), so even if your logic were correct, only a few pixels at the very edge of the sensor would be spared. However, diffraction is not a sensor effect, it's an optical effect that is independent of the sensor, so the ripples from rays hitting just outside the sensor will also affect the pixels at the very border of the sensor.You're right, and so am I, because diffraction (generally a ripple effect) has 50% more impact on the center of an image than the outer 1/3; depending on the subject, lens, and sensors size.
This is a flying spaghetti monster argument.I'm really not digging my head in the sand on this issue. Every visualization and diagram I have found researching visualizations based on the Airy Disc and the circle of confusion. I haven't seen proof that it doesn't impact the center of the image more than the rest either.Where is your evidemnce for that claim?
Unless you have other sources, I agree with BasilG that you may be misunderstanding something.
That is something I'd agree with in many cases.Regardless, I'm still under the overall opinion/impression that the benefits of stopping down outweigh any practical loss in detail.
Ah, nice article, thanks. I was trying to simplify.The above is not correct.To be expected, the quantity of diffracted rays is governed by the circumference of the diafragm. That is where they bend around.
The undiffracted image comes from the remaining diafragmsurface.
So a longer lens, having a larger diafragm (at the same 1/f number) has relatively less surface that produces a diffracted image and more that produces the intended image.
For non-macro distances the size of the Airy disk at the film/sensor plane due to diffraction is entirely down to the F/number and has nothing to do with the focal length.
For macro distances the particulars of the lens design, specifically pupil magnification, is another factor in Air disk size.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_disk#Cameras
For the OP:
Diffraction is proportional to F-number so it doesn't just suddenly rear its head. You just slowly lose resolving power the smaller the aperture. You can make up for a bit of that with sharpening in post processing. If you are downsizing the image it may end up being hardly noticeable. Yes, by F/8 one can "detect" the effects of diffraction with a high resolution FF sensor or a 20MP APS-C sensor and a very high quality lens. Whether it is of any consequence in the final processed image viewed at output size rather than 100% pixel peeping is another matter.
Here's a more controlled test from a long time ago with a 16MP m43 sensor shot at F/2.8 and F/16:
Clearly everything is much softer at F/16. Notice for the stars on black that you can also see the effect of wavelength - the red star is more blurred than the blue star since diffraction is also proportional to wavelength. The comparison between F/2.8 and F/16 is of course dramatic. The comparison between say F/16 and F/11 would be more subtle.
Yes. Settings for sharpening were the same...but noise levels are more in last shot ( ISO 4500)Third shot looks like it's been sharpened in PP a lot more. Are you sure you are putting all of these through the exact same PP pipeline?I read at times about diffraction and how it can lessen details as aperture is stopped down.
I also read that the smaller the sensor, the more this can become an issue.
Some even say at f8 details are already effected by diffraction...yet I have seen some very detailed images at f8 with a pinhead superzoom camera at 3,000mm.
Honestly ..I really don't see the impact when stopping down.
I shoot 90% wildlife...maybe diffraction shows up more with other type scenes?
Here's a quick non lab test.
I was shooting a very cooperative Great Blue Heron.
Took some shots at different apertures:
The last shot, at f/19, forced ISO up and in removing noise, some of the fine hair details most likely were smeared a bit.
I agree.......this is a flawed test.....but It didnt start out as one.Each image you posted is softer than the last -- I can even see a noticeable difference between f/6.7 and f/8. But each is also with less light in a lower light scenario. So your images can't show anything about diffraction.
Not that I would ( unless I buy the TC1401 1.4x TC for this lens...and I read it can also be used with some Nikon lenses).You will definitely notice the effects of diffraction regularly shooting birds at f/11 though.
Yes...but also DOF increased...a tradeoffAnd especially with macro shots where the effective aperture is magnified.
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