X-E2 + 23mm f2

misterodd wrote:

TangoMan wrote:

misterodd wrote:

rla1022 wrote:

misterodd wrote:

For those of you who have some experience with this combo, is this pair fast enough for street action? Thanks in advance!

My first Fuji was an xe2 with the xf 35 f2. They worked great together. Can’t see why it would not work.

I have tried some street with my x-e2 and 35mm 1.4, but could never get moving people in focus. Thanks for the feedback!

If possible could you post a street photo or two with this combo?

The camera will not focus on moving people. If you want to shoot fast action or from the hip, you have to use manual focus: prefocus at a known distance and shoot when your subject is at the correct distance.

For example, focus on a street sign, and when you see people walk by the sign, you can shoot. Or you focus at 2m-6ft, and when you think people are at that distance from you, you can click and the shot will have the correct focus.

With some practice, in good light, with f8 or f11, it works quite okay., Photographer have done it for decades.

Tangoman, thanks for the detailed suggestion! Actually, I have considered doing this, but have been too lazy to set it up. It doesn't take long, does it? Also, I'm more of the type that doesn't want to be in one place for more than a few minutes at a time. I like running and gunning, if you will. That said I really think I need to try this out in the near future.

Do you know if the 23 f2 is a big improvement over the 35 f1.4 for quick street action?

Happy to help

The 23 is more forgiving than the 35 because the depth of field is deeper and the angle of view wider.

As for focusing, I suggest you autofocus on a stationary object and keep in your spatial memory where it was in relation to you. Then engage manual focus and you are good to run and gun. It's really very fast, especially using the back-button focus (because no need to change the focusing mode) but you need practice to evaluate the distance of your subject and know when they are in focus, without looking at the camera. Re-calibrate your visual memory often by redoing the focus-memorize distance thing once in a while.

I should add that you will have a LOT more sharp pictures with a static position and a visual clue (a line on the sidewalk, a fire hydrant, etc) to help you know when people are in focus. Evaluating peoples distance while walking requires a lot of practice.