Night photography tips

Nipar wrote:

Dear friends,

I am an old m50 owner and in my backpag there are three lenses: 11-22, 32, 55-250.

The  EF-M 11-22mm and EF-M 32mm f/1.4 lenses can certainly be used.  The EF-M 55-250mm lens can capture decent moon+landscape shot but is not suitable for Milky Way photography.
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The 11-22mm lens is fairly dim at f/4-5.6 so you'll be forced to use a much higher ISO setting and that's going to result in smeary details.  So you'll lose many of the fainter stars and a lot of the fine structure details will be lost with that lens.  But it can still be used and it performs better on cameras like the M50 rather than on the earlier EOS M model camera bodies.
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In the last trip I realized the beautiful 32mm hasn't IS..:D

This lens doesn't need Image Stabilization because of the wide f/1.4 aperture.  Most super-bright lenses tend not to feature I.S.  And Night photography of this nature demands that a Tripod be used.  The EF-M 32mm f/1.4 is the fastest native lens available in the EF-M mount but it's also a more narrow lens, producing a less-than ideal field of view (FOV).   So you can either use it to take a narrow shot of the Milky Way or you can tile several images together into a Mosaic with it.
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A Mosaic of 4 images taken with the EF-M 32mm f/1.4 lens on the EOS M6.
* A NiSi Night Filter was used for this photograph.

A two-shot vertical panorama, taken with the EF-M 22mm f/2 lens + EOS M6.

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The incoming trip I'd like to be ready for a kind of photography I'd like to shot:

Is it possible according to you to get something similar with our camera and these lenses?

The image at the top looks to be a composite made from two photographs.  One for the vehicle and one for the Milky Way behind it.  There's a lot of people taking a similar type of image recently and they use the same method, sometimes sharing their techniques online.
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As for being possible, yes indeed.  It will help if you can get to a Darker Sky Location.  This would be a location away from city lights.  Sometimes you can find them in the Mountains or on a beach where there's no nearby city lights.  City lights cause so-called "Light Pollution" and this is simply a term to describe lights from the city striking tiny participles in the air, washing out a scene and making it much harder to see the Milky Way, even with your camera.  Your camera will always see much more than your eyes can, especially with a longer exposure. There's a chart called a "Bortle Sky Index Chart" which shows what you can expect to see of the Milky Way from these locations.  Some Bortle Sky Index charts are more detailed than others but this one is more visual and may help you with your expectations.  I tend to only have access to a Bortle 3 or possibly a Bortle 2 sky location and I have to drive about an hour from my home to access them because I live near a major city...
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Bortle Sky Index chart for determining what you can see from your location.

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In particular - do you have any nice tutorial to learn some skill to take pictures similar to the second one with the lamp light beam?

Taking pictures with a flashlight in the scene as a prop is easy enough for anyone.  You may find that you need to turn off the flashlight after a couple of seconds, even if your exposure is much longer.   You can turn the flashlight on and off at any time during the duration of the exposure.
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EOS M (2012 model) + EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM lens. I took this picture back when digital astrophotography was only just becoming popular, and the use of flashlights for a prop was not as common. It's now becoming something of a cliche these days.

EOS M (2012 model) + EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens.

The tiny an EXTREMELY affordable EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens (on the EOS M camera).

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I tried with the 32mm but I couldn't stand so much as 20-30seconds (with ISO 400) without moving and at the end the beam burnt the picture...

The ideal exposure time for the EF-M 32mm lens is going to be under 15 seconds.  You can take a longer exposure if you want, but the Earth is turning and this will cause the stars to produce trails.  So instead of dots for stars, you'll seen lines forming.  The brightness of your lens (ie widest aperture) and the focal length of your lens will determine how long your maximum exposure can be without the stars trailing.   A few pictures down, I have shows the ideal settings for the four EF-M lenses that I have on hand.  You can use the same for the same (or very similar) results.  I used a Bortle 3 location (rural) for those shots.
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This shows how much of the Galactic Core (the brightest part of the Milky Way) can be captured with the EF-M 32mm f/2 STM lens.

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Any help will be appreciated

PS:

this is so far what I achieved to get with the 11-22:

Thank you!

The EF-M 11-22mm lens is a WIDE lens at 11mm but it's also a DIM lens because it has a smaller aperture, even when open wide to f/4.  The smaller the f-number, the wider the aperture is.  This is why your EF-M 32mm f/1.4 STM lens is so much brighter and can take a photograph in shorter time than other, dimmer lenses.  I'd also strongly recommend that you consider the EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens for Milky Way exposures because it's bright and sharp and offers exceptional value for the low price.  It's one of the best Astro lenses out there for the EOS M camera system.
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A 20 second exposure from the EF-M 22mm f/2 lens (+ EOS M6) - edited for contrast and to enhance detail.  Shots like this one were taken with a Tungsten White Balance - hence the blue sky hue.

How much field of view your EF-M 11-22mm has compared to the EF-M 32mm lens.

Ideal settings with the EF-M lenses I had on hand. Shot in a Bortle 3 location.

The EF-M 11-22mm lens is WIDE at 11mm... so you'd think it's going to be ideal.  But it's really too dim to be effectively useful.  You can capture the bright core of the Milky Way with it but you'll have to edit the image aggressively to get near this shot... and the finer stars & details will still be smeared.

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If you're interested in taking pictures like the ones you posted, the methods or techniques vary only slightly, depending on the lens used.  The same camera settings can usually be shared between lenses of a similar type.
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The only tools you'll need are your camera, (1) a suitable lens (bright if possible) and (2) a tripod.  You'll want a flashlight to see what you're doing in the dark and you'll want to plan your shot so that there's no Moon in the sky at that time.  The moon will impact your shot if it's there... even a small crescent moon will do this.  I'd recommend downloading a free program for your computer or your smartphone called "Stellarium" and this will enable you to plan for when and were the brighter areas of the Milky Way will be in the night sky when you are out there.  The version of Stellarium for your phone is simpler.  The version for your home computer offers a lot of professional features but is still easy to use.
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There's usually part of the Milky Way visible in the sky at any time, but since the Earth's position is changing throughout the year and because the Earth is rotating, different areas of the Milky Way will not always be visible in the same part of the sky all year around.  This also applies to the bright core of the Milky Way.  So for shots where you need it to be behind people or props like a car, you may need to plan your shots long ahead of time.  And hope the weather is good.  But sometimes clouds in the sky can create a wonderful effect if you can still see the Milky Way though gaps between them.  Use the built-in self-timer on your camera to avoid camera-shake when taking your images. Astrophotography is about learning lessons as you go so don't be afraid to experiment and try new settings to see what the results will be.