Feedback on my x-t2 checklist

dpmd wrote:

I am a casual vacation photographer, shooting raw only for the last 3 years. I use Capture One for processing. I have developed a mental checklist that I sometimes forget because I go too long between my shoots. So I decided to write it down now. Would appreciate your feedback on what I am doing. I am sure I am missing tricks, and perhaps doing a few things wrong.

My equipment:

• X-T2
• 18-55 kit lens
• XF 55-200
• XF 35f2

I have the following "Auto" settings

1. 200-12800 ISO, ss 60+
2. 200-12800, 200+
3. 200-12800, 500+

With rare exceptions I shoot in aperture priority.

Always 200-12800 ISO limits for me too. No reason to limit it - if it needs to go that high, it needs to go that high, and the X-T2 is a great high ISO camera. I usually tweak the 3 presets as needed for the lens I’m using and situations I find myself in. I almost never go as low as 1/60” handheld unless I’m using a very wide focal length (my Viltrox 13mm). It’s usually 1/80”, 1/160, or 1/320” with my 16-55, 1/160” being my go-to for typical slow moving people photography. 1/60” is just too slow, IMO.

Landscape

• Use manual focus till the blue DOF line just touches infinity for hyperfocus

I would ignore the useless distance scale, it just isn’t accurate at all. With a landscape, I often use MF with Focus Peaking to place the areas of sharpest focus where they need to be - typically where your eyes are drawn to first, then stop down if necessary to spread the DOF where it needs to go. I prefer to not stop down any more than necessary, f/5.6 is typically a lot sharper than f/11.

• Higher aperture values => higher DOF, but don't exceed 10

Unless I’m trying to produce a sunstar, I rarely go beyond f/9 or f/10.

• Use Auto 1 (ss = 60+)

Unless I’m using a tripod, I wouldn’t go that low - faster is sharper. There are exceptions, but there’s almost always something moving in a landscape (including you).

• Short focal length

Pretty much any focal length can produce great landscapes. I find the 16-55 especially versatile for this.

People outdoors -- static

• Auto 1 (ss=60+)
• Short focal length to include background, long to deemphasize background
• low aperture for low DOF

People outdoors -- moving

• Auto 2 (ss=200+) for short focal length, Auto 3 (ss=500+) for long focal length

If your longer lenses have OIS, you can usually get away without bumping up the SS significantly (for the same level of action). I have lots of tack sharp images at 1/80 - 1/125” with my 50-140 at 140mm shooting low light theatre.

• Short focal length to include background, long to deemphasize background
• AF-C with Zone AF or Wide/Tracking AF. 325 points.

People indoors -- static under normal lighting

• Auto 1 (ss=60+)
• Low aperture numbers (but not too low)
• Manual focus if lighting is poor
• OIS on

Sports

• Lowest aperture
• Auto 3 (ss=500+)
• Max zoom (200)
• AF-C with Wide/Tracking AF. 325 points.

I use AF-S for almo