Extension tubes are rubbish

c h u n k wrote:

jim mij wrote:

hmm, I did say that image was not a keeper, only that I actually managed to get anything at all

I can get good shots (at least that I like) with the lens/flash/lighting/diffuser/handheld, but i cannot get an acceptable result by adding tubes in the same conditions

eg no tubes

If i add extra stability (resting the lens on a table or a tripod), and / or use stacking, and the subject is not moving, then as i said tubes do help get me closer, but as i've tried explaining thats incompatible when handheld and an alive subject

eg 36mm tube/tripod/led ring of dead bee I found

I prefer the spider shot, it was quick, painless, and the spider and i both moved on. The bee shots took time to set up, time to process, and i'm still not sure about the resulting DoF / stacking affects, but it was fun.

A live bee by comparison (handheld again) just looks happier

Jim

Yes, it is far harder --- EXPONENTIALLY harder to get keeper shots as magnification increases. Especially handheld. But, once again, this is not an issue due to extension tubes. Its an issue with higher magnification macro. All of the issues magnify (no pun intended). PLENTY OF PEOPLE, including myself are able to photograph live subjects, handheld without a brace. My photo below was at nearly 3x, I was holding the camera in one hand while holding the leaf with the ladybug on it up high so I could use the sky as a background. It *IS HARD* and has a high failure rate, but it is very much doable.

Your post is "tubes are rubbish" but what you have really been saying is photography beyond 1:1 magnification is rubbish

DO NOT put such words in my mouth, I am perfectly capable of speaking for myself. if you care to read comments I have written you'll see that I do admire such efforts and appreciate their being posted. Your poor assumption only infuriates, and negates your educational efforts thus far

Once again, under the right conditions extension tubes are NOT rubbish, under the wrong conditions the results are

and I dont think you agree with that when looking at photos by other people. You demonstrated the issue is 1) lighting and not having right lighting rig. Lighting in photography is everything obviously in terms of getting a pleasing image but in macro flash also effectively becomes shutter speed and removes the need for a tripod or really high ISO. 2) learning how to keep yourself steady or get shots in focus because you found some solution in bracing yourself 3) understanding effective apertures and becoming familiar with the sweet spots, but also to what extent software sharpening can help with diffraction softening, 4) When making the post you didnt know why your magnification didnt increase which you havent verified, but I assume my assumption was correct in that you were focused at infinity as that is the only way magnification wouldnt increase with tubes attached...and by other photos you posted, aside from lighting, I think it would help to learn better angles and composition for macro subjects. Getting low when photographing a jumping spider, for instance, doesnt just make for a more interesting photo of being eye to eye(s) with a spider, it also helps in getting a direct shot with a more even focal plane across the eyes/head. That angle of a spider at 2x would always be unusable without stacking.

There may be some issues I would find when using your lens with tubes vs, say, my 2.5x-5x lens, but the issues you are having has nothing to do with those differences. They are issues that may become noticeable after you learn to maximize the capabilities of that setup, which, frankly, you have not yet. The quality of images you would get with an MPE65 or Venus 25mm or Venus 100mm at 2x would be virtually identical, though you may be more motivated to improve because then you KNOW what others produce with the same lens.

I fully understand if you choose to just stay at 1:1 or below because of how challenging it becomes after that, but I wouldnt want to see other beginners in this forum that have the 60mm macro get discouraged from using tubes or any rig that might work for that matter. Ive seen absolutely gorgeous macro photos made with a kit 18-55 reversed and natural light giving around 2x magnification. Another photographer made absolutely stunning images of snowflakes using a very old point and shoot Canon Powershot with a reversed old Russian 50mm film lens which was reversed and extended by bracing the whole setup to a 2x4 piece of wood and then wrapped in black trashbag to keep the light out....

You can make INCREDIBLE images with your kit..if you decide to do it. Period.