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This model without viewfinder right? Don't forget you also need to fork out nearly $300 for that EVF-DC2 viewfinder unless it's bundled.For example, Canon M6 II + Adapter EF-EOS M + Sigma 150-600 Contemporary costs 5900+579+5500=11979 yuan (the 2000 yuan budget overrun can be dealt with by saving my weekly allowances for another one or two months) and weighs 408+154+1930=2492g.
I can understand why Booted Cat might be hesitant to go with the RX10iv.Just go with the rx10-4 it will shoot circles around anything else in your budget.
Another thing to consider is battery life , that sigma is going to hammer the battery moving all that glass and why I opted for a Nikon dslr D7200 with its good battery life and 51 AF points and the twin card slot is an added bonus for redundancy and back up add a battery grip for extra power and grab a good quality monopod with a nice fluid head .This model without viewfinder right? Don't forget you also need to fork out nearly $300 for that EVF-DC2 viewfinder unless it's bundled.For example, Canon M6 II + Adapter EF-EOS M + Sigma 150-600 Contemporary costs 5900+579+5500=11979 yuan (the 2000 yuan budget overrun can be dealt with by saving my weekly allowances for another one or two months) and weighs 408+154+1930=2492g.
Thank you so much, I enjoy these types of comparisons in your thread!Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
Thanks, that would be an interesting comparison! Please keep me posted.Will have to compare both at 600mm to see if image size is same of different Like the bird rx.
DA
I saw that-- the P950 images look cleaner and also the image scale seems larger with the P950 (I assume the P900 would be identical in both low noise and image scale)? Maybe the LT-55 is more like 1.5x rather than 1.7x?Jack Graham simply says it may work out ok
Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
hope this helps . I preferred the lt55 over izoom but it was then longer than my Nikon and less convenient to use if wanting to use the whole focal range .
I’m just trying out izoom on my fz2000 just out of curiosity as well.
No it’s not like that , a lot is down to design and distance.I saw that-- the P950 images look cleaner and also the image scale seems larger with the P950 (I assume the P900 would be identical in both low noise and image scale)? Maybe the LT-55 is more like 1.5x rather than 1.7x?Jack Graham simply says it may work out ok
Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
hope this helps . I preferred the lt55 over izoom but it was then longer than my Nikon and less convenient to use if wanting to use the whole focal range .
I’m just trying out izoom on my fz2000 just out of curiosity as well.
But from what I saw in a head to head comparison there was no way to tell them apart. The P950 is subject to the same noise smearing as the P900 in jpgs, it only gets better in RAW and even then only at higher ISO (above 400.)No it’s not like that , a lot is down to design and distance.I saw that-- the P950 images look cleaner and also the image scale seems larger with the P950 (I assume the P900 would be identical in both low noise and image scale)? Maybe the LT-55 is more like 1.5x rather than 1.7x?Jack Graham simply says it may work out ok
Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
hope this helps . I preferred the lt55 over izoom but it was then longer than my Nikon and less convenient to use if wanting to use the whole focal range .
I’m just trying out izoom on my fz2000 just out of curiosity as well.
optics are very complex and the field of view can vary simply due to the distance between the lens and subject , it’s called focus breathing.
And there is a good chance that the P950 will have better noise control compared to the P900 as Nikon improved the processor within the camera as well as autofocus speed .
What you need to remember is that the P950 also does 4k hence the more powerful processor.
so why keep asking me about . I don’t have the 900 to do side by side .But from what I saw in a head to head comparison there was no way to tell them apart. The P950 is subject to the same noise smearing as the P900 in jpgs, it only gets better in RAW and even then only at higher ISO (above 400.)No it’s not like that , a lot is down to design and distance.I saw that-- the P950 images look cleaner and also the image scale seems larger with the P950 (I assume the P900 would be identical in both low noise and image scale)? Maybe the LT-55 is more like 1.5x rather than 1.7x?Jack Graham simply says it may work out ok
Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
hope this helps . I preferred the lt55 over izoom but it was then longer than my Nikon and less convenient to use if wanting to use the whole focal range .
I’m just trying out izoom on my fz2000 just out of curiosity as well.
optics are very complex and the field of view can vary simply due to the distance between the lens and subject , it’s called focus breathing.
And there is a good chance that the P950 will have better noise control compared to the P900 as Nikon improved the processor within the camera as well as autofocus speed .
What you need to remember is that the P950 also does 4k hence the more powerful processor.
I didn’t even bother taking moon shots with the Panasonic as it didn’t have much reach as my Nikon cameras .The focus breathing issue makes sense. I think if you do full moon shots with each camera that resolves that issue, because of how far away the moon is?
I don't know-- I just find very limited usage for these super duper zoom cameras with micro sized sensors. Last year I did a comparison with my P900 at 2000mm EFL vs my EM10 Mk 2 with the 75-300 lens with 2x DTC teleconverter and the amount of detail rendered seemed almost exactly the same (bird feathers, flowers and on moon craters.)so why keep asking me about . I don’t have the 900 to do side by side .But from what I saw in a head to head comparison there was no way to tell them apart. The P950 is subject to the same noise smearing as the P900 in jpgs, it only gets better in RAW and even then only at higher ISO (above 400.)No it’s not like that , a lot is down to design and distance.I saw that-- the P950 images look cleaner and also the image scale seems larger with the P950 (I assume the P900 would be identical in both low noise and image scale)? Maybe the LT-55 is more like 1.5x rather than 1.7x?Jack Graham simply says it may work out ok
Take a look at my thread here
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65708007
I’ve tested 600 plus izoom, 600 plus lt55 and then 600 plus lt55 plus izoom
hope this helps . I preferred the lt55 over izoom but it was then longer than my Nikon and less convenient to use if wanting to use the whole focal range .
I’m just trying out izoom on my fz2000 just out of curiosity as well.
optics are very complex and the field of view can vary simply due to the distance between the lens and subject , it’s called focus breathing.
And there is a good chance that the P950 will have better noise control compared to the P900 as Nikon improved the processor within the camera as well as autofocus speed .
What you need to remember is that the P950 also does 4k hence the more powerful processor.
I didn’t even bother taking moon shots with the Panasonic as it didn’t have much reach as my Nikon cameras .The focus breathing issue makes sense. I think if you do full moon shots with each camera that resolves that issue, because of how far away the moon is?
Oh that is a great feature of the Fuji HS series (to record both before and after the shutter is pressed), I wasn't sure if the Nikon P series had this (900 onwards), as I hadn't deeply into the features. Is 4K30 handholdable? I had read that 60 fps produces silky smooth video while 30 fps requires tripod use?But it’s a known fact these bridge cameras are basically designed as an all in one and only any good for daytime use .
The whole idea behind them is been able to take a landscape, a family group shot , a macro and zoom across the bay and have images that are good enough for social media , keepsakes without lens swapping and a big heavy bag.
Your m4/3 set up is to restrictive for my needs with only telephoto and a converter, I’d be constantly swapping lens back and forth on my short walks .
An all in one is never going to replace dedicated kit .
In your case either get higher spec body and 100-400 or the 300mm prime or get an apsc with the 150-600 or a full frame with 800mm prime etc ,
that is the only way you will get a good leg up .
As for SD cards , they are so cheap now that I don’t see it as reason not to update gear.
Your comment on 4K video I found so untrue .
It’s easy to use and converted back to HD makes for much better quality output .
The ability to shoot at 30 fps and save 8mp stills is great . Panasonic will even let you do this at high shutter speeds making it great for these less capable cameras capture action .
Some even record a second before and a second after when you press the shutter down.
The P950 price is simply because it has no competition, it is smaller and lighter than P1000 but is actually easier to use handheld at least for me anyway.
I found I have to use much higher shutter speeds to get a sharp image or a tripod which again defeats the object for me .
I have used the fz330 and the fz1000 that way in the past but AF speed is hit and miss and why I don’t even bother anymore. Both those cameras have now gone.Oh that is a great feature of the Fuji HS series (to record both before and after the shutter is pressed), I wasn't sure if the Nikon P series had this (900 onwards), as I hadn't deeply into the features. Is 4K30 handholdable? I had read that 60 fps produces silky smooth video while 30 fps requires tripod use?But it’s a known fact these bridge cameras are basically designed as an all in one and only any good for daytime use .
The whole idea behind them is been able to take a landscape, a family group shot , a macro and zoom across the bay and have images that are good enough for social media , keepsakes without lens swapping and a big heavy bag.
Your m4/3 set up is to restrictive for my needs with only telephoto and a converter, I’d be constantly swapping lens back and forth on my short walks .
An all in one is never going to replace dedicated kit .
In your case either get higher spec body and 100-400 or the 300mm prime or get an apsc with the 150-600 or a full frame with 800mm prime etc ,
that is the only way you will get a good leg up .
As for SD cards , they are so cheap now that I don’t see it as reason not to update gear.
Your comment on 4K video I found so untrue .
It’s easy to use and converted back to HD makes for much better quality output .
The ability to shoot at 30 fps and save 8mp stills is great . Panasonic will even let you do this at high shutter speeds making it great for these less capable cameras capture action .
Some even record a second before and a second after when you press the shutter down.
The P950 price is simply because it has no competition, it is smaller and lighter than P1000 but is actually easier to use handheld at least for me anyway.
I found I have to use much higher shutter speeds to get a sharp image or a tripod which again defeats the object for me .
With the P900 I have been using BSS (which the newer cameras dont have) and I have found that I can do 1/30 sec shutter speed handheld at 2000mm.
I found I have a weight limit of 1 kg, I get hand cramps if I try to shoot with any combo that weighs above that limit for an extended length of time. So basically, it's either the P900/P950, OM-D set up with the 75-300mm lens or Sony Aseries with the 70-350mm lens. I have not found anything else within my weight requirements.
You're right about the M4/3 set up, what I have done instead is fit 3 lenses and 2 bodies inside one camera bag. I could actually have 3 lenses and 3 bodies and thus never swap lenses, but I hadn't gotten round to getting that 3rd body yet lol. They all use the same battery so it works without having to swap lenses. I have 14-42 and 75-300 covered I just have the 40-150 lens not on a body yet.
The FZ300/330 lets you capture BIF with 4K mode, Paul? So you could extract each file as a separate image?
What cameras do you use now for 4K image extraction and what cameras do you use that have the pre-shutter press picture taking function? As I recall the Fuji HS series was the best in that regard.I have used the fz330 and the fz1000 that way in the past but AF speed is hit and miss and why I don’t even bother anymore. Both those cameras have now gone.Oh that is a great feature of the Fuji HS series (to record both before and after the shutter is pressed), I wasn't sure if the Nikon P series had this (900 onwards), as I hadn't deeply into the features. Is 4K30 handholdable? I had read that 60 fps produces silky smooth video while 30 fps requires tripod use?But it’s a known fact these bridge cameras are basically designed as an all in one and only any good for daytime use .
The whole idea behind them is been able to take a landscape, a family group shot , a macro and zoom across the bay and have images that are good enough for social media , keepsakes without lens swapping and a big heavy bag.
Your m4/3 set up is to restrictive for my needs with only telephoto and a converter, I’d be constantly swapping lens back and forth on my short walks .
An all in one is never going to replace dedicated kit .
In your case either get higher spec body and 100-400 or the 300mm prime or get an apsc with the 150-600 or a full frame with 800mm prime etc ,
that is the only way you will get a good leg up .
As for SD cards , they are so cheap now that I don’t see it as reason not to update gear.
Your comment on 4K video I found so untrue .
It’s easy to use and converted back to HD makes for much better quality output .
The ability to shoot at 30 fps and save 8mp stills is great . Panasonic will even let you do this at high shutter speeds making it great for these less capable cameras capture action .
Some even record a second before and a second after when you press the shutter down.
The P950 price is simply because it has no competition, it is smaller and lighter than P1000 but is actually easier to use handheld at least for me anyway.
I found I have to use much higher shutter speeds to get a sharp image or a tripod which again defeats the object for me .
With the P900 I have been using BSS (which the newer cameras dont have) and I have found that I can do 1/30 sec shutter speed handheld at 2000mm.
I found I have a weight limit of 1 kg, I get hand cramps if I try to shoot with any combo that weighs above that limit for an extended length of time. So basically, it's either the P900/P950, OM-D set up with the 75-300mm lens or Sony Aseries with the 70-350mm lens. I have not found anything else within my weight requirements.
You're right about the M4/3 set up, what I have done instead is fit 3 lenses and 2 bodies inside one camera bag. I could actually have 3 lenses and 3 bodies and thus never swap lenses, but I hadn't gotten round to getting that 3rd body yet lol. They all use the same battery so it works without having to swap lenses. I have 14-42 and 75-300 covered I just have the 40-150 lens not on a body yet.
The FZ300/330 lets you capture BIF with 4K mode, Paul? So you could extract each file as a separate image?
What's Updated
Applications
- The max aperture numbers for "Fujifilm X-T30 + Fujifilm XF 70-300mm + Fujinon XF2X TC" are now corrected.
- A new solution, "Fujifilm X-T30 + Fujifilm XF 100-400mm + Fujinon XF2X TC", is added.
- "BIF solutions" in the title is changed to "fast shooters" to better indicate my applications. A new section "Applications" is added.
I think a lightweight long-zoom fast shooter (e.g. Canon R5 + RF 800mm F11 which at 2.0kg can reach 1200mm EFL when cropped to 20MP) can find 3 applications:
A list of the lightest long-zoom fast shooters
- BIF, but not small bird in flight: Small birds like the kingfisher fly fast and generally I won't try to follow them in flight even with a long-zoom fast shooter. Most people's reflexes simply can't catch up with them.
- In-place fast action: Imagine a kingfisher is eating a fish while perching on a branch. The eating process takes merely seconds if it's a small fish, and every second in this process the beak and fish are constantly moving. So aiming and AF won't be a problem (as the bird perches in the same place) but a high shutter speed is essential. This is when the solutions greater than 1000mm on the list below can come into play.
- Handheld shooting of "in-place fast action" or a stationary target: Imagine a kingfisher is eating a fish while perching on a branch, or is simply perching still on a branch, and you want to take a handheld snapshot. Likewise, aiming and AF won't be a problem as the bird stays in the same place, but a high shutter speed is required to reduce/eliminate camera shake caused by shaky hands.
All focal lengths below are adjusted as if cropped to 20MP.
600mm+
800mm+
- Sony RX10M4 (1.1kg, 24-600mm, F2.4-4)
- Sony a6600 + Sony E 70-350mm (1.1kg, 115-575mm, F4.5-6.3)
Some people regard this as the successor to the RX10M4, with the new Real-time Tracking autofocus technology which can "seamlessly and reliably transition from subject tracking to face detection and finally to eye detection".- There are other approaches to reach 600mm with a light weight, for example: Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 75-300mm II (0.8kg, 150-600mm, F4.8–6.7)
1000mm+
- Olympus E-M5 III + Panasonic Leica 100-400mm (1.4kg, 200-800mm, F4.0-6.3)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 100-400mm (1.5kg, 200-800mm, F5.0-6.3)
- (Discontinued) A Nikon 1 series camera (here represented by Nikon 1 J5 as it's the only one in the series with >=20MP) + Nikon 1 70-300mm (0.8kg, 194-830mm, F4.5-5.6)
1120mm+
- Fujifilm X-T30 + Fujifilm XF 70-300mm + Fujinon XF2X TC (1.1kg, 239-1026mm, F8-11)
Courtesy of Fzuseruk (Labe) and Martin_99. This article has more information on the mentioned lens and teleconverter.
1600mm+
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 100-400mm + Olympus MC-14 1.4x Teleconverter (1.6kg, 280-1120mm, F7.1-9.0)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 300mm F4 Pro + Olympus MC-20 2x Teleconverter (1.8kg, 1200mm, F8.0)
- Canon EOS R5 + Canon RF 800mm F11 (2.0kg, 1200mm, F11)
- Fujifilm X-T30 + Fujifilm XF 100-400mm + Fujinon XF2X TC (1.9kg, 342-1368mm, F9-11)
Courtesy of Fzuseruk (Labe) and Martin_99. This article has more information on the mentioned lens and teleconverter.
2000mm+
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 100-400mm + Olympus MC-20 2x Teleconverter (1.7kg, 400-1600mm, F10-13)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 150-400mm F4.5 TC1.25x Pro + Olympus MC-20 2x Teleconverter (without using the internal 1.25x TC: 2.4kg, 600-1600mm, F9.0)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 150-400mm F4.5 TC1.25x Pro + Olympus MC-20 2x Teleconverter (using the internal 1.25x TC: 2.4kg, 750-2000mm, F11)
The P950 and P1000 are ultrazoom slow shooters that work best on a tripod:
Nikon P1000, 2000mm, 1/15s, own work
So naturally their owners here may want long-zoom snapshooters for sports, action and BIF to complement these ultrazoom slow shooters, and wise, lazy people want solutions that are as light as possible.
Sony RX10M4, 600mm, 1/2500s, an official sample photo from Sony
I just completed an exhaustive study on lightweight long-zoom snapshooters and actually I didn't find anything new. The usual 3 lightest solutions are:
* F7.1-9.0 (with TC) is according to this YouTube video at 2:46.
- Sony RX10M4 (1.1kg, 24-600mm, F2.4-4)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Panasonic Leica 100-400mm (1.4kg, 200-800mm, F4.0-6.3)
- Olympus E-M5 III + Olympus 100-400mm + Olympus MC-14 1.4x Teleconverter (1.5kg (without TC) / 1.6kg (with TC), 200-800mm (without TC) / 280-1120mm (with TC), F5.0-6.3 (without TC) / F7.1-9.0 (with TC)*)