Andaman Sea Blackwater

Barmaglot_07 wrote:

gokhankuzu wrote:

I couldn't find enough small objects in the night shoot.

In other words, having shot underwater for 25 years, you have failed to produce a single postable image using the settings that you advocate others using. That's, uh, inspiring confidence, oh yeah.

I didn't do the Blackwater dive either. If I do, you'll see very good photos.

Uh huh.

I'm not shooting at f25. I know what DOF is, you still don't. LOL.. All photos above f 20 uploaded in that your Facebook group are garbage.

At values above f11, it is not possible to take good photos according to the laws of physics. There is diffraction. It does not provide you any benefit in Dof range, on the contrary, it gives bad photo always.

Bwahahahahaha.

LoL. This is bad quality.. You do not understand. I showed you the f8 and f22 photos taken at the same time. Do you have a comparison photo taken F8 and above f20 that will make it easier for you to understand? Never in your life you have taken a photo like this and compared it.

Are you using your pop-up flash to trigger?

No.

Then why 1/160 ?

Because 1/160s is the maximum normal sync speed of all Sony Alpha APS-C cameras. Sony Alpha full-frame cameras can do 1/160s with manual triggers and 1/250s with TTL triggers that have more precise timings. Sony A1 can do 1/400s in full-frame mode and 1/500s in APS-C crop mode.

You could shoot at a speed higher than 1/160 with your HSS supported TTL converter and Retra flashes. Why did not you do it?

You told me you have UW Technics TTL converter and I checked it has HSS support, your camera also has HSS support.

Yes.

Go HSS with your converter and flash.

I feel like I'm arguing with a brick wall here. I'll try to make it as clear as I can.

This wonderful close-up image of a sofa cushion is taken from about 15 centimeters away with a 90mm macro lens, using a single Retra Pro flash firing at full power in manual mode, f/22, 1/160s, ISO 100:

The next image was taken with everything exactly the same (camera position, strobe position, focus, strobe settings, etc), but with exposure set to 1/250s:

And this is, again, the same image, still at 1/250s, but with HSS mode activated on the strobe (still doing a full dump):

See the difference?

Yes. Your TTL converter is not enough. Unsuccessful. There is still a blackout at the bottom.

YS 250s shoots 10fps and continuously burn. I will post a video about it. The battery matters. I triggered YS250s over on 580EXII (in housing-6 pin) TTL-HSS mode, 1/2000 perfectly synchronized.

YS-250 does not do HSS, and it does not do 10fps at anything above minimal power levels.

No, you don't know. You didn't use it, you didn't experience it. With enough capacitors and batteries, all flashes are triggered in HSS. There is no need to write HSS on it. Even the Nikonos SB 105 fires 1/2000 in HSS. It is not at minimum power, it is effective in all macro shots up to 3 meters.

The YS 250 Pro does 10fps at half power. I just spoke with the Sea&Sea distributor and he confirmed what I said. I just shot a video for you, watch it.

https://youtu.be/EZQz4o6moKM

My camera takes 5 frames per second. The YS250 pro fires nonstop at half power.

In addition, similarly powerful Ikelite DS 230, Supe D Max ..etc.. flashes can fire up to 15 fps.

For macro shots, the power of the flash does not decrease in HSS, you do not feel it.

Examples I have posted above to the contrary.

You don't have enough knowledge and you're tiring me. I took it for you an hour ago. Triggered TTL and HSS on 580EX II with fiber optic cable to YS250Pro. I took it wide-angle so you can see the sync too. 1/200, 1/500, 1/1000, and 1/2000.

P.S: Currently there is a problem with DP, it does not add photos. I uploaded it to my gallery. I'll add it when the problem is fixed.

OK, look from here;

1/200 https://flic.kr/p/2n12eqA

1/500 https://flic.kr/p/2n12erh

1/1000 https://flic.kr/p/2n18Qig

1/2000 https://flic.kr/p/2n17aQU

The flashlight is effective up to 3-5 meters.

The hell it is.

Do not talk nonsense.. Even 3 meters is enough for macro shooting, even more.

HSS and TTL work together.

Not always. On my system, HSS is available only in manual power adjustment mode.

It's the inadequacy of your flash. If it receives TTL information with electrical connection, it triggers. It triggers if S-TTL is sensitive.

I

I've heard that Red 64 (HSS ready) is triggered in HSS.

You heard wrong. The only underwater strobes currently on the market with HSS support are Retra Prime/Pro (and the X refresh models) and Seacam SeaFlash 60D/160D. Seacams can do TTL with HSS, but they only support Canon and Nikon TTL; Retras rely on external triggers (UW-Technics and Turtle are the most popular) so they're brand-agnostic, but HSS function is manual-only.

No, you know wrong. As I wrote above, almost all flashes trigger HSS. Even my 40-year-old Sea&Sea YS 20 flash also triggers HSS. If you use the original flash of the camera..