Andaman Sea Blackwater

Barmaglot_07 wrote:

gokhankuzu wrote:

I will load two photos I took 10 years ago to explain the f value below.

I'm not seeing anything resembling blackwater.

I couldn't find enough small objects in the night shoot. I didn't do the Blackwater dive either. If I do, you'll see very good photos.

Let's say you have a 5 cm DOF, you have a range of 2.5 cm forward to 2.5 cm back. If the subject moves 1 cm forward or backward after focusing, that is, at the time of the shooting, the sharpness will deteriorate. A 1 cm movement within a 5 cm range disrupts the clarity. Shooting with f25 instead of f11 will not gain you anything. It makes more sense by shooting consecutively. Acceptable sharpness is unacceptable for a good photo.

Shooting small apertures helps keeping the deterioration below the floor of which the camera sensor can resolve.

At values above f11, it is not possible to take good photos according to the laws of physics. There is diffraction. It does not provide you any benefit in Dof range, on the contrary, it gives bad photo always.

Are you using your pop-up flash to trigger?

No.

Then why 1/160 ?

You told me you have UW Technics TTL converter and I checked it has HSS support, your camera also has HSS support.

Yes.

Go HSS with your converter and flash.

If you use TTL converter 1/200 and even 1/1000 does not get you black exposure in macro shooting.

If I don't explicitly enable HSS on the strobes - yes it will. Enabling HSS requires loading it into the U1 or U2 custom mode banks, then twisting the mode knob to the appropriate position.

Flashes must have a large battery, my YS250s can burn easily at 10 fps

Not at anything resembling full power; its recycle time at full power is specified at 1.8 seconds, and manufacturers routinely lie on this statistic, claiming recycle time to 70-80% of charge as 'full'.

I'm using Retra Pro strobes with supercharger battery packs, so 8xAA per strobe. This gives me a sustained 3fps at half power. At 75% power, 3fps starts missing shots. 11fps works at up to 6% power.

If your flashes are 8xAA, it's great.

and fully synchronized even at 1/2000 in HSS.

YS-250 does not support HSS. It does have an unusually long pulse duration, with approximates HSS to a certain degree, but that is not true HSS.

YS 250s shoots 10fps and continuously burn. I will post a video about it. The battery matters. I triggered YS250s over on 580EXII (in housing-6 pin) TTL-HSS mode, 1/2000 perfectly synchronized.

Power loss in HSS is valid for long distances.

Distance has nothing to do with it. A strobe in HSS mode flickers at a rapid pace (typically 40kHz) rather than producing a single continuous pulse. This severely constrains the overall brightness - usable range drops as a consequence of that, not by itself.

If the HSS is high, the range of action flashlight decreases. This is what I'm talking about.

For shots from 3-5 meters away, there is no problem with TTL.

For one thing, 3-5 meters away, underwater?! Are you kidding me? May as well be in a different ocean. For another, HSS and TTL don't work together, at least on my system. HSS is manual-only.

For macro shots, the power of the flash does not decrease in HSS, you do not feel it. The flashlight is effective up to 3-5 meters. HSS and TTL work together. For example580 EXII in housing. It may not be working in your flash. There are strobes with an auto mode on them and triggered in HSS, but they no longer produce.

Weefine or Kraken S05 and Isotta Red 64 are very good and has big powerful battery.

That Weefine strobe is terrible, somehow they managed to design a circular tube strobe that leaves an unlit spot in the middle of the frame, and has a narrow beam. Its only standout feature is long battery life. Isotta RED64 is good, but huge, heavy, extremely expensive, doesn't have any accessories, and doesn't support HSS either.

If you trigger HSS, and Flash triggers as slaves, there is no point in having HSS support in a flash. I've heard that Red 64 (HSS ready) is triggered in HSS.

I took this 10 years ago in Arabian-Basra gulf. (these are untouched original copy) This is a larval juvenile boxfish. It is very difficult to notice with the eyes. The length of the cardinal fish on the back is 5-6 cm, its head is 1.5-1 cm. Guess the size of the boxfish. Full focus and f22, inspect sharpness.

That's a juvenile, not larval stage, and I've seen them smaller, when they're still totally round - yours is starting to grow ridges. Besides, your first shot seems to simply miss focus completely, if not by much - the tailfin appears sharper than the nose. The second shot is focused on the target's face, but the tail is completely out of focus, as a consequence of reduced DoF.

ISO 100, TTL and f8 -f11and HSS always make a difference..

Difference? Sure, but Kazimir Malevich has done his 'Black Square' over a century ago; it's not really innovative in 2022.

I don't know what you re talking about.