How to Shoot With Kodak TMax P3200 at 6400 or More With Xtol?

Started 6 months ago | Questions thread
Autonerd Senior Member • Posts: 2,982
Re: How to Shoot With Kodak TMax P3200 at 6400 or More With Xtol?
1

Sourov wrote:

Ok first, in the world of Film photography , I am a new born baby who is learning to walk. So, apologies in advance.

I've been shooting film for years and some say I still act like a baby...

What is (or are) the best ways to shoot Kodak P3200?

In a camera! YUK YUK YUK. No, seriously, I think P3200 is meant very low light photography or action (ie sports) photography with a long lens that doesn't have a very large max aperture, and where the grainy/contrasty look isn't desirable (hence the choice of a T-grain film). Probably good if you're a private investigator still shooting film, too...

Me, I'd probably use it for indoor photography -- if I was going to use it. My go-to for low light is HP5+ (a 400-speed film) that I push to 1600.

2nd: if I shoot for 800iso (set the iso 800in camera) and develop for 3200 as par the Kodak requirements, am I pushing it for 4+ stops by over developing?

Well, that's not the Kodak requirement. Kodak says the film is nominally 800 ISO (1000 with T-Max developer) which I suppose is its "box" speed (even if they don't put it on the box).

Regardless: If you haven't already (and I think you have), you should look at the Data Sheet (which you will find here). Page 4 shows the development time for various developers depending on how the film was exposed.

If you shoot it at 800 ASA, you should develop for 800 ASA (so, assuming 68 degrees, 14 minutes in Xtol diluted 1:1). If you want to run it at 3200 speed, you should set the camera for 3200 and develop for 3200 (18.5 mins).

While I haven't tried this, I believe if you shoot the film with the camera set at 800 ASA and develop for 3200, your negatives will come out two stops overexposed.

Here's the deal with pushing (and I hope I'm getting this right; my understanding is tenuous): When silver halide crystals are exposed to light (exposure), some molecules reduce to metallic silver. More light, more reduction; less light, less reduction. This is not enough to see, so (generally) if you were to fix the film (remove unreduced silver halide crystals) without developing you'd get what looked like a blank frame.

Developer does the same thing light does: Reduces silver halide to metallic silver. It works faster/harder/more (however you want to think about it) on crystals that have already had some reduction due to light. So crystals that got a lot of light in exposure get reduced a lot by the developer (lots of silver, dark spot on negative, light spot on print/positive scan). Crystals that didn't get light don't get much reduction, so little silver/light or clear spot on negative/dark spot on print).

Fixer comes and washes away the unreduced silver halide, and the silver spots are the dark bits on your negative.

Pushing works by underexposing the film, then increasing developing time, giving the developer more time to reduce the silver halide crystals that got exposure to light. The dev times are calculated to allow for this.

If you shoot TMax 3200 at 800 and use the longer development time for 3200 ASA you're giving the developer too much time to work. It'll reduce too much silver and you'll get a dark, dense negative and hence a bright/light (overexposed) print/positive scan.

Shooting at 800 and developing for 800 will give you a proper exposure. To do 3200 ASA, you need to shoot at 3200 and develop for 3200 to get the proper ratio of exposure and development.

"Pushing" is a bit of a tricky word with TMax 3200 because of its name, but let's consider it an 800 ASA film per the data sheet (1000 ASA with T-Max devleoper, apparently).

If you were to expose it at 3200 ASA, and develop for 3200 ASA, you have effectively pushed it two stops (a stop doubles the numbers, so 1 stop is 800 x 2; 2 stops is 800 x 2 x 2, or 3200.

If you expose it for 800 ASA and develop it 3200, you've merely overdeveloped it by two stops. With C-41 film, this would be the equivalent of shooting 800 ASA film with the dial set at 200 ASA and developing normally.

A more "conventional" example is my beloved 400-ASA HP5+. If I shoot it at 800 (and develop accordingly), that's a 1-stop push; 1600 is two stops; 3200 is three stops.

Does this make sense?

And finally,

What are the recommended ways to shoot for 25000 iso?

We can find that in the data sheet. First, you'd have to set your camera's dial to 25,000 ASA. If your camera tops out at 6400, like many of mine do, you'd simply take the meter reading and reduce the exposure by two stops. (6400 doubles to 12,800; that doubles to 25,600, so two stops is close enough.) So if your camera meters 1/250 @ f/8, you'd shoot at either 1/60 @ f/8 or 1/250 at f/16 or 1/125 @ f/11.

Then, we look on the Data Sheet -- development time 25000 ASA for Xtol 1:1 is 25 mins. (Bring a book!)

Hope this helps!

Aaron

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