Thoughts on the M11

Started 6 months ago | Discussions thread
SrMi
SrMi Veteran Member • Posts: 3,245
Re: Thoughts on the M11

VfxByArt wrote:

Swordman wrote:

What do you guys think of the upcoming M11?

So far, we know that it doesn’t have a removable bottom plate and it doesn’t use any brass. I feel those things are fundamental to the M experience.

One thing I would’ve like to have seen is a return to using sapphire crystal for the LCD screen, but I don’t think that’s ever coming back.

Swordman wrote:

What do you guys think of the upcoming M11?

So far, we know that it doesn’t have a removable bottom plate and it doesn’t use any brass. I feel those things are fundamental to the M experience.

One thing I would’ve like to have seen is a return to using sapphire crystal for the LCD screen, but I don’t think that’s ever coming back.

I shoot fuji bodies with leica M glass.

leica needs to take a page from fuji’s book. They have an extended dynamic range called DR400 mode.

The dr400 mode, in short, distributes the exposure more evenly thru the exposure of the images, removing the necessity of underexposing for highlights. It does this by requiring you to shoot at iso 640 or higher. This allows the camera to underexpose the hi lights of an image while boosting the mid tones and shadows…. basically what you eventually do in post if you underexposed your images. It does all of these calculations prior to the analog to digital conversion, so it works in RAW!

To find out about this technique, check out Pal2tech video on this mode in detail:

https://youtu.be/RjjCa73XxsY

Whats great about this mode is that you no longer are required to underexpose your images to retain hi lights… something that generates, often, underexposed jpgs. It uses the computer in your camera as it should be used. As a photographer, you’re not supposed to alter your photography because digital sensor tech is bad at retaining highlights. You ALTER the tech to conform how you shoot for the scenes. Fuji dr400 mode does this.

For additional street photography tips, I make sure to get it right in camera. This allows for immediate use as jpgs (I shoot raw + jpg). I uses a -4 on sharpness and and -2 on the highlight and shadow tone curves. This LOWERS the contrast on the jpg, allowing me to add contrast in an iOS photo app. I use MaxCurves to do that as it allows for sophisticated curves to be used discreetly as highlight, midrange and shadow tone curves to tweak the image.

Losing the brass, bottom plate etc on the M is kinda pointless. So is hyper resolution. My recommendation?

1) offer a 25mp and 40mp option. For the street photographer, 25mp is economical, allows for dynamic range extension, and lower processor overhead.

2) updated, lag free vizoflex that is 5k. For those who want f.95 precision focus and leverage mirrorless tech for street photography. Do this instead of getting rid of the bottom plate and brass.

3) newer maestro processor mated to a backlit stack sensor. Do that before upping the rez. Thats what fuji did from the the xt2- xt3. Same megapixels, 4x the processing speed. Make Leicas take photos at the speed of film again.

4) dynamic range. Spoke about this earlier with fuji dr400 mode, something I shoot exclusively in. The randomness of street photography necessitates this flexibility. Exposing fir highlights is a recipe for dark useless jpgs. Theres a computer in the camera, use it! Fuji proved it with their dr400 mode. I never worry about hi lights. Just composition and light.

5) bring back ala carte and custom engraving

6) continue the monochrome tradition.

digital Rot is the same in Leicas as is with any other camera. Removing the brass and bottom plate brings it closer to digital rot when you first open the camera box.

thx for reading this!

I never use %DRxxx mode on my Fujis (and similar settings on Nikons), and I do not recommend it for raw shooting. Rico Pfirstinger recently described a somewhat helpful scenario where using %DRxxx helps keep the EVF and final image bright enough to evaluate the scene when heavily 'underexposing' to preserve highlights. I prefer to have more control over what my camera is doing. However, it can be helpful in JPGs.

The point of Leica is to offer only the most essential functionality. IMO, the shorter the manual, the better designed a system is.

What is hyper resolution?

How does 25MP allow for "dynamic range extension"?

The higher the EVF resolution, the more power it draws. The rumored +3k EVF resolution is a good compromise, though I find the resolution a less critical component in EVF quality (refresh rate, contrast, colors, no flickering are more important).

What is digital rot in the context of keeping the removable bottom plate?

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