Re: M100 to M50? Worth upgrade?
2
dan the man p wrote:
Mike_57 wrote:
Hi there,
I am new to photography and know my basics and own the M100 with several lenses (kit 15-45, 11-22, prime 22mm and 18-150mm) and am wondering if if worth upgrading to M50?
I am mainly shooting my daughter with the 22mm indoor low light and not satisfied with the IQ. Somehow I don't manage to have a sharp image without any noise :/
The only few clear images would be with the flash and pretty close from her. Any of you experience that as well? If anyone has tips to edit and remove the noise I would be happy. I am removing a bit of noise in Lightroom and also use Topaz Sharpen but somehow the result is not satisfying. The image is sharper but also too "smooth" as well.
So my question is is the M50 worth upgrading for better low light quality? Or is it going to be exactly the same? I am aware of the limitation of the 4k crop video and will still be happy with the 1080p and the viewfinder could be useful.
I am also tempted to buy the prime 32mm 1.4 with M50 for portrait pictures. Please let me know what you think and if it worth upgrading it or if I coul just get the 32mm lens only with my M100? (by trading the kit lens 15-45 and 18-150 since I don't really use them much).
Thanks!
Mike
The M50 won't really give you any IQ advantage over the M100.
True.
The autofocus may be a little faster, but I'm not really familiar enough with the M100 to know.
The 32 f/1.4 would make a big difference over your 22mm for low light photography.
The maximum aperture is only a single stop faster (2 vs 1.4). Being a longer focal length, you will need to use about a stop faster shutter speed. Handheld in low light, differences should be slim to none.
Alternatively, the Sigma trio are also great f/1.4 primes for EOS M. Another huge improvement would be to use DxO PhotoLab 5 or PureRaw with Deep Prime noise reduction. I can get very good results at ISO 6400 with it. Others will tell you that they can go even higher, which is true, but I keep it limited to 6400 because other aspects of IQ (sharpness, color rendition, dynamic range) also start to drop off quickly at 6400 and above.
In terms of settings and techniques, in low light you still need to make sure your shutter speed is fast enough to get sharp results. In Av mode and auto ISO, the camera will try to pick the minimum shutter speed to avoid blur due to camera shake, but if there is subject motion, you may still need to increase the shutter speed. For shooting people in these situations, I normally use Tv or manual mode with auto ISO and set the shutter speed to 1/100 sec or faster. Again, a fast lens and DxO Deep Prime can help you still get great results in such situations.