FE SEL24-105 soft focus

Started 7 months ago | Discussions thread
FingerPainter Forum Pro • Posts: 10,954
Re: FE SEL24-105 soft focus

JERumball wrote:

It was definitely not too dark in the arena.

No too dark for what? Typically an arena like this will have lighting about 8 stops darker than sunny 16 light. It is evidently too dark to focus accurately using the AF mode you were in with the subject distance and framing you had, because the image is obviously front-focussed. Can you not see that it is front-focused?

I could plainly see the player

So what?

and the green focus lock on the back screen before exposure.

Yes, the camera thought it had focus. Do the results indicted that it was right?

Whether it used face or eye is inconsequential because where the focus target is, at f8, the face eyes and hair should be tack sharp and it definitely is not.

That assumes that it actually focussed at the distance the focus target would make you think it focussed at. The results in the photo indicated it actually focused closer than that. Things will only be "tack sharp" right on the actual plane of focus - the subject plane. Even if the eyes and hair are still within the normally calculated DOF, they will not be as sharp as things on the actual subject plane. But be aware that the normal calculation of DOF uses a CoC that assumes you are viewing a 20cm x 25cm print from about 30cm away. When you pixel peep this camera's images at 100% on a typical HD screen, you need to use a COC of about 0.004mm, not the 0.03mm used in standard DOF calculations. With such a COC, if you miss focus by 10cm, the eyes will be outside the DOF. I'd say your actual subject plane is at least 10cm in front of the eyes, and that's why they aren't sharp enough when you pixel peep.

One way you can improve your chances of getting accurate focus using eye or face detect is to frame tighter. Your subject is only taking 2/3 the height of the frame. There is no need for all the empty space around him. Get closer and make it 9/10 of the frame.

Another way is to get more light on the subject before the strobes fire.

The sample you showed using a video light was much better-focused. It had much more light on the subject while focussing, and was much more tightly framed.

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