What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

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ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,840
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

Congrats! Sorry, I'm getting confused bc any number of members here are starting to see highly anticipated boxes on their front entry ways. Keep us informed on your thoughts vs the III.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

I'm not hard on my stuff so I hope that keeping track of the ring is not going to be an issue. But it must be enough of a prob that the new one has a click.

Not sure I understand what this click is. My GR IIIx ring looks exactly the same as the GR III one (only thicker).

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

The one video I saw shows two guys, one with a III and one with a IIIx. The first guy was complaining about the loose ring on the III. The guy with the IIIx said that as the ring is screwed on and just as it tightens all the way there is a click (detent), which helps secure the ring.

That'd be Kai Wong. There have been some complaints about the GR III ring. I've not had a problem irl. But in terms of clicks etc., What Lok said in that video makes no sense. They might have tightened the ring in the IIIx but it locks in exactly the same way. Nothing has changed.

Interesting. So everything I see on YouTube is not necessarily fact?

Heh. So it seems. In general I've seen other criticism in online reviews for the GR III (and other cameras I've owned in the past) that I've never found in actual usage. I live in a really bright country (Greece) and have never had any issue seeing the LCD screen of the GR III outside, and I've never even used the +2 brightness setting. Yet, it's one of those criticisms it gets all the time.

On my Sony I find it largely unusable in bright sunlight without being increased to the max brightness setting. I'm not sure what Ricoh is doing differently but good to know that it is usable in the default brightness setting. It sounds like the battery does not need any additional drain. One reviewer, also on YouTube, suggests that you need between 2 and 5 batteries a day. However, he was trying to compare a Leica Q2 to the GR III for some reason so I'm taking his battery comment with a grain of salt.

I turn my camera off between shots, unless I'm in a very dedicated shooting situation. I have 2 official batteries and never have I had to use the second one in the same day because the first one died.

This is awesome to hear. I'm planning to buy two after-market batteries (Wasabi?) and a dedicated charger, just in case. I always turn off the instant preview feature and try to use any energy saving features like power-off time, etc., in an effort to prolong battery life.

The greatest reason I ended up unhappy with my Olympus cameras was the power button being to the left. I like to just turn on, shoot, turn off.

I read one review where a guy put a piece of tape or something under the ring that helped secure it from falling off.

if you have a similar problem that should fix it. I've had 2 rings (because I also bought that 3rd party green one) and both were secure.

I like OEM equipment and hope not to lose the two rings that are supposed to come with it. But I will take a look around at some of the aftermarket stuff. I'm probably going to look for something similar to the GC-9 leather belt case too.

Again, I have not received my III yet and hope that it's not an issue. But with regard to tape, I have found that the adhesive on any tape mucks up after while due to age and heat, etc., so I do not plan to use that so-called remedy.

Worst case scenario, get yourself another ring. The 3rd party ones are cheaper and metal.

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Cheers,
Vittorio
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