What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Started 3 months ago | Discussions thread
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,044
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

maltmoose wrote:

Starny wrote:

maltmoose wrote:

Ive got u1 as my primary snap mode. With a minimum shutter speed that is high enough to freeze some movement and aperature high enough to give a good depth of field.

U2 ive been changing around and experimenting. Currently experimenting with the wide dof setting for p mode.

U3 is my long exposure setting, with 2 sec time fixed iso 100 etc.

I have a closeup setting which uses manual mode saved in a box, tbh i never use it as its quicker to just change my manual settings in m mode on dial.

Thanks maltmoose.

Would something like this make sense for an instant must capture (gotta have) photo in U1?

1/250, f2.8, ISO 100.

No i wouldnt use that with snap as 2.8 the dof will be thin, better to use f8 in A mode or P mode with the deep dof setting. Iso100 assumes you will always have plenty of light

1/250 will be ok as minimum for people, faster for faster things like dogs, bikes etc.

Good idea to set auto iso, better to have high shutter to freeze motion and higher aperture like f8 for wide dof to capture more in focus.

A bit of grain with higher iso is better than blurred image.

Can I assume at these settings that if the software feels a scene is blown out that the ND filter will take over if left on Auto? Does the ND filter only work in jpeg? I'm not sure I've ever seen an in-camera ND filter before.

Nd filter is only 2 stops. And works in raw and jpeg. Leave in auto untill you know why you need to change it. but you can still under and over expose. If you exceed the max shutter speed auto nd will save you upto 2 stops over exposure.

I know many people will say, if you gotta have it pump up the ISO very high and close it down some, more or less what you're doing I think.

I would recommend p mode and auto iso until you get to grips with it.

I use p mode for walk around, gets the job done nice and simple, when i need more control i changed modes.

My main thought with f2.8 was to just get light to the sensor no matter the conditions.  If it focuses correctly at least I'd have a photo but little DOF.

On my Sony I have the ISO capped at 12,800, which, hard to believe, is still on the edge of usable.  I'll probably do the same with the GR III unless I hear differently.  However, I would like to try a grainy Hi-Contrast shot some time.

From what I've read P mode is basically the Auto mode for this camera.  So I'm assuming the index finger front dial operates both the shutter speed and/or aperture depending which way you rotate it, right?

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