G9 vs. Z6 @ 2.8 in low light

Started 3 months ago | Questions thread
rich_cx139 Senior Member • Posts: 2,390
Re: G9 vs. Z6 @ 2.8 in low light

Sundre wrote:

I spent some time googling this + reading forum threads. It all got a bit too technical for me. Would anyone be able to give a simple, non-technical answer to this question:

If I shoot the same low-light event (concert etc.) with these two combos, how many stops do I gain with the Z6? Image stabilisation does not matter much since the subjects are moving.

Combo #1: Panasonic G9 + PL 35-100/2.8

Combo #2: Nikon Z6 + Nikon 70-200/2.8

I would love a really simple answer, something like "1/50s with #1 will look more or less like 1/125s with #2". I don't need a technically perfect answer, just a rough ballpark figure.

Unless I have misunderstood something, the two components involved in making the Z6 the better combo for low light is the sensor and the lens. I don't really understand the technical aspects of that, and I would prefer not to have to understand them either.

The reason I'm asking is, I've been offered a used Z6 for 1,000 €, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much. I realise it's a good price for a Z6 mark I in good condition, but I'm not rich. Getting some decent glass for it would be so expensive...

If I can get "good enough" results with something like the PL 35-100/2.8 or the Olympus 75/1.8 with my G9, I'm not sure I want to spend that much at this time.

Thank you

I have already posted here but going back to your original post I have a few more thoughts:

A Z6 for 1000 euro may not be look such a good deal in some months. Although it is temping, best to decide what you actually need first - step back first - there will always be offers.

If you need to shoot stage close ups in a large auditorium or theatre or stadium from away the front then you need a FF body + lenses - if they will allow them in. There is no sensible alternative.

If you are shooting inside, in lower light in a more confined space, then m43 can give you as a good a result,

The key is DoF control. I explained this in an earlier post but to get the same depth of field with the same angle of view requires an equivalent aperture depending on the sensor and so you need to go, for example, from f5.6 on a FF to f2,8 on m43 to get the same DoF. Surprisingly, this is ( ballpark) the same perceived noise level ( although a FF sensor at 14 bit has an advantage over m43 ).

Again, unless you are a professional photographer in which case just get what works best for your colleagues, or else have a play around with the suggestions we have given you for m43

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