G9 vs. Z6 @ 2.8 in low light

Started 1 month ago | Questions thread
Anders W
Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 22,144
... so what?
2

jwilliams wrote:

Sundre wrote:

I spent some time googling this + reading forum threads. It all got a bit too technical for me. Would anyone be able to give a simple, non-technical answer to this question:

If I shoot the same low-light event (concert etc.) with these two combos, how many stops do I gain with the Z6? Image stabilisation does not matter much since the subjects are moving.

Combo #1: Panasonic G9 + PL 35-100/2.8

Combo #2: Nikon Z6 + Nikon 70-200/2.8

I would love a really simple answer, something like "1/50s with #1 will look more or less like 1/125s with #2". I don't need a technically perfect answer, just a rough ballpark figure.

Unless I have misunderstood something, the two components involved in making the Z6 the better combo for low light is the sensor and the lens. I don't really understand the technical aspects of that, and I would prefer not to have to understand them either.

The reason I'm asking is, I've been offered a used Z6 for 1,000 €, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much. I realise it's a good price for a Z6 mark I in good condition, but I'm not rich. Getting some decent glass for it would be so expensive...

If I can get "good enough" results with something like the PL 35-100/2.8 or the Olympus 75/1.8 with my G9, I'm not sure I want to spend that much at this time.

Thank you

If you regularly shoot in low/challenging light then just go for the FF camera system. It is simply the best tool for that task. I could tell you a lot about sensors and how lenses compare across formats but in your case I don't think it really matters. GreatBustard has probably done a good enough job there. The bottom lime is the type of photography you are doing is challenging and needs the best high ISO perfromance you can get. That is a FF camera not a m43 camera. These type of questions come up here frequently and in some cases you can argue one way or the other but for the work you want to do the FF camera is the correct tool for the job.

Can you please explain how gaining roughly one stop with respect to shadow noise (see the DR graph below) at the expense of two stops worth of DoF would make this a better concert photograph?

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