Two More things to try - Exposure Comp and Burst
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Chris_From_Holland wrote:
I'm stunned.
I'll give a try with the trial version. It does bring a visible improvement.
Thanks!
DxO completely changed the way I shoot now and why I (and many others) highly recommend it. My default mode is Manual with Auto-ISO. I know any ISO up through 12,800 will look very good on the R5. In a pinch, I wouldn't mind going to 25,600 or even 51,200, and it should be better for you with the R6. In this way, I can control the depth of focus with aperture and the shutter speed based on subject motion and let the camera pick the ISO. Previously, it was a bad compromise to shoot aperture with as much ISO as I could tolerate, and I hope there was not too much subject motion blur.
Also, I have tried playing with the knobs in Adobe RAW to reduce noise, and invariably you play a bad game of losing saturation and resolution to reduces noise. You can't get the detail back with sharpening. With DxO, it is just a few button clicks, and it comes out with lower noise and much better detail than Adobe RAW.
A couple more suggestions to get a better focus in though lighting:
- The AF system on the R5/R6 is tied to the exposure you see in the viewfinder. In the case of the photos you gave, the subject was a bit dark. Your exposure setting, I think, was evaluative, and so whatever is bright in the scene is going to tend to drive the exposure. You might want to set the exposure to about +1 EV IF the subject is darker than other things in the scene. You have about 2 stops of headroom when you shoot raw, so this will give up one stop of headroom, but you can't recover bad focus (yes, there is software, but it is not a great option).
- Shoot a burst of photos (say 3 to 5) in a high-speed mode. This will give the AF system more changes to lock on. You also give yourself a chance to get a better pose if the subject is working or a chance to make a montage of the sequence. I'm trying to train myself to shoot in bursts more, even with moderately still subjects.