Best point-and-shoot camera for motorbike racing

Started 4 months ago | Questions thread
Jestertheclown Veteran Member • Posts: 3,517
Re: Best point-and-shoot camera for motorbike racing

bobn2 wrote:

none of the three cameras I have with an EVF is any good at all, for those, a DSLR is a much better option. That's a personal thing, when I've said this before others have said that they find an EVF fine.

And I'm one of those people!

I was at Santa Pod Raceway last Sunday, fairly close to the start line but the fuel cars were still passing me at more than a hundred miles an hour.

Admittedly, my panning was a bit hit and miss; I don't do it very often but my success rate was pretty high.

I was using a Z7 with, obviously, an EVF but had none of he problems that get mentioned, blackouts, smearing, lag etc. that certain posters keep on about on here.

In fact the biggest problem that I had was being able to manoeuvre the 100-400 lens on the front of it.

I'd suggest something like a Nikon D7500, or Canon 80d or 90D, even an secondhand 7D. Couple that with a good 'consumer grade' 70-300 zoom, and you should be able to grab some pretty good shots.

I think you're right re. the D7500. I've no experience of Canons.

I've had quite a lot of success with my D7200 at air shows; not quite the same thing, I know but you're still picking up and chasing your subject, however, using a 'consumer grade' 70-300 was what limited that success.

I used to use an AF-P 70-300 DX and while it generally produced excellent results, I found that it was slow to find focus at, well, air shows.

I'd imagine you'd find the same limitations at the IOM.

But, whatever you get, you'll need to practice.


Spend some time before just practising photographing the traffic on a reasonably fast road.

Best place I found to practice was the approach or exit roads from a busy roundabout. Depending where you stand, you'll get traffic accelerating or braking.

Motorbikes, braking and turning in make great subjects on which to practice. They're usually moving quickly and they're nimble enough to make your work for your shots.

Learn how to pick up focus, track and pan, and how to judge when to fire off the shutter. You don't in fact need a huge burst rate if you get the knack of knowing when to press the shutter. If you have 6FPS, you'll pick up maybe four versions of each event, with 10 FPS it will be five, with 14 maybe six, so not an enormous difference.

'Spray and pray.'

I suppose that method will work, but also try to get one shot at a time. You'll be surprised just how much time you have to compose and get each shot. And it saves you trawling through hundreds of shots that you're going to throw away.

Good luck.

I envy you a trip to the Island!

"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

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