Best point-and-shoot camera for motorbike racing

Started 4 months ago | Questions thread
bobn2 Forum Pro • Posts: 69,811
Re: Best point-and-shoot camera for motorbike racing

Mike200927 wrote:

Next year I will visit the famous Isle of Man TT motorbike race.

For this event I want to buy a point-and- shoot camera. I'm not a pro and don't want to carry a large camera with all kind of different parts.

I know point-and-shoot has it limitations but I am ok with that. I assume I must have a camera which is fast and has a good burst mode.

Can someone advise me which camera's can do this, specific, job?

Thanks a lot, Mike

I've done a fair amount of photography with road racing, and I think that it depends on you, and the type of shot you want to take. To get a decent hit rate some kinds of shot demand top level AF and an OVF. Others are well within the reach of a compact. For close-in shots trying to track the action, none of the three cameras I have with an EVF is any good at all, for those, a DSLR is a much better option. That's a personal thing, when I've said this before others have said that they find an EVF fine. For other kinds of shot, where you're tracking a bike at distance, and the movement is quite predictable, an EVF can work OK. Road racing is likely to have more shots in the first category than the latter. In circuit racing if you haven't a press pass you can't get very close and the tracks are predictable, so you have more of a chance.

The thing is, you don't have to carry a camera with 'all kinds of different parts'. One camera and lens will do it. But it wants to be one with decent AF, and I really would go for an OVF. I'd suggest something like a Nikon D7500, or Canon 80d or 90D, even an secondhand 7D. Couple that with a good 'consumer grade' 70-300 zoom, and you should be able to grab some pretty good shots.

But, whatever you get, you'll need to practice. Don't think that you'll be able to just turn up and get excellent shots. You'll have spent a day or two there and most of what you get will be rubbish. Spend some time before just practising photographing the traffic on a reasonably fast road. Learn how to pick up focus, track and pan, and how to judge when to fire off the shutter. You don't in fact need a huge burst rate if you get the knack of knowing when to press the shutter. If you have 6FPS, you'll pick up maybe four versions of each event, with 10 FPS it will be five, with 14 maybe six, so not an enormous difference.

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