Re: Looking for a better way
Saabster wrote:
Gary from Seattle wrote:
Saabster wrote:
Hi all,
Here's my dilemma, I'm tired of trying to do focus stacking with my manual 4 Way macro rail and Pentax K-1/Laowa 2.5x-5x lens. The camera/Lens is too heavy to move smoothly and it's hard to get a consistent set of images.
I've been looking at automated rails and they're a bit pricy, and I was considering a used camera with built in focus bracketing as an alternative. Something like an Olympus E-M1 (mk1) or EM-5. I've seen a few of those going for decent prices for the body only, and then I need to figure out a lens.
Well, I don't use automated Focus bracketing, but I do use In Camera Focus Stacking. I've done this for 5 years or more, first with the EM-1 I, and for the last two years with the EM-1 II. This produces a high quality jpeg, not RAW. But you can bracket with the camera and use an external program to combine the images. I shoot occasionally wildflowers (mostly near the ground as they are less likely to move in the wind) and I shoot a lot of mosses using In Camera Focus Stacking. The results are very good - not perfect - to my eye.
In scenics, I've just done a bit of this, but that is because the DOF is very good in m4/3; and at F6.3 or F7.1 I can usually obtain what I want with a single shot.
Having had and used both the EM-1 I and EM-1 II in this way, I can say that the EM-1 II has less limiting parameters in shooting and also produces in general better images.
The EM-1 II is now at a very low price for a very good camera - good pretty much for any shooting. The 60 macro is what I use on most Focus Stacked shots. It is also at quite a good price for a very good lens.
Sample shot this week (small file size):

What is the best way to go forward, a camera with inbody focus bracketing or an automated rail. I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as possible.
Thanks
Thank you for the information. I've got Helicon Focus, so I can go either way (in body stacking or just focus bracketing and stacking outside the camera). I'd probably go with the EM1 mk 1 as I can find them on the Bay for $250 and under, where as the Mk ii is around $600.
Given the difference in price I'd get the Mk1. Just out of curiosity Do you know anything about the M5? How does it compare to the M1 mk1?
I have not owned an EM-5, but I will say both the original EM-5 and EM-1 had considerably more potential defects. The EM-1 II has a better sensor at 20MP (better also at highlight control) and is very durable. There have been very few reported defects on the EM-1 II. You could ask this question on the m4/3 forum.
Aside from the 60mm Which is way out the budget at $450+ for the M.Zukio version What other macro lenses are supported? I saw the 7Artisans 60mm macro, but that's all manual, and kind of defeats the purpose of getting a camera with internal focus bracketing.
The 60 macro works very well and can be bought new often for $399. Used it is probably quite a bit less. For the above shot (botanical subjects) I prefer MF using Focus Peaking. But I have also lately been shooting lots of bees. Here I use low burst S-AF. The EM-1 II is much quicker focusing than the EM-1 I (birds and bees, etc.)
For the price of the M1 and M.Zukio 60mm I'd be better off just getting an automated macro rail for my K-1.
A macro rail would be a PITA.
With a good body, there is no reason not to shoot handheld in good light. Because both you and the subject likely move, you just shoot a number of shots with the likelihood that you will obtain in good light shots with ideal focus at magnification. Currently with bees I am using the EM-1X (as I might with birds). The EM-1 II is just a touch behind in focus speed.
Something else you can use with more modern Olympus bodies is "Pro Capture" - find a tutorial. I am going to try that with bees, as with high magnification, by the time I press the shutter, the bee has moved in some random direction. I'll bet my hit rate will go up significantly using Pro Capture.