E-5 internal battery change

Started Apr 14, 2019 | Questions thread
MarkMLl Junior Member • Posts: 25
Re: E-5 internal battery change

I am pleased to say that I now have a working E520, which retains its state.

Detailed instructions follow.


DISCLAIMER: If you choose to follow these instructions you do so at your own risk. It's your camera, if you break it you get to keep all the bits... and there's likely to be lots of them.

Do not consider attempting this if you are unfamiliar with fine mechanical and electronic work, or if you lack experience handling flexible PCBs.

You will need Phillips 000 and preferably 0000 screwdrivers, plus tweezers etc. It is desirable that these not be magnetic. You will also need suitable storage for screws etc., since incorrect reassembly will cause damage.

Orientation is looking at back of camera, i.e. battery/cards on right.

Do not remove the rubber thumb pad from the back of the camera, there is nothing useful under it. If you already have, refit it using thin double-sided tape.

Remove memory card(s) and battery.

Remove screws as below:

2x 11mm screws from behind the card cover, noting that these are fine-pitch thread.

1x 6mm from top of card compartment, noting that this is coarse-pitch thread.

2x 5mm fine screw from the tripod bush.

1x 5mm coarse screw from RH bottom next to the battery cover finger recess.

1x 4mm fine from LH bottom.

1x 4mm coarse from LH end.

4x 4mm coarse from around viewfinder.

While pressing grey card eject, carefully pivot back rightwards and upwards.

EXPECT card cover to come free and a fragile electrical connection (gold-coloured flex PCB) between back and body.

On the body, identify a (green) PCB at the right-hand end with (silver) card receptacle.

At the end of the flex PCB on the green PCB, remove silver flat-head screw and black tape over connector.

The connectors for the flex PCBs have a black locking bar, which can be gently pivoted upwards to ease removal/insertion.

Extract the flexible PCB from its receptacle on the green PCB.

Re-fit the viewfinder window to protect its optics using one screw.

Identify a wide flexible PCB between the PCB and mirror/sensor assy, and 2x soldered wires one of which might be under black tape. Except for these, remove seven flex PCBs around the edge of the green PCB.

Remove 3x silver screws from the PCB, plus one with a different thread to the left of the USB connector. Do not remove 2x larger flat-headed screws.

The green PCB is now held to the sensor/mirror assy by a flex PCB and 2x wires which do not need to be removed, and a connector.

Pry the green PCB towards the back of the camera (not towards the card door) to separate the connector.

The green PCB and attached card receptacles etc, can now be gently pivoted upwards to expose the battery, which is SMD soldered onto the PCB.

During repair operations, mask the adjacent connectors to protect them from contamination.

Check the pillars from which the PCB has been unscrewed for cracks. In my case one of the pillars at the top of the camera was broken, and the other had a hairline crack. These can be fixed using cyanoacrylate noting that it might soften and "weld" the plastic to some extent but it will probably be necessary to use some sort of reinforcement, allow 24 hours to harden fully.

The solder on the battery connections doesn't shine, so is probably lead-free. Be warned that mixing leaded and unleaded will cause problems.

The battery should unsolder easily since the contacts are only "laid onto" the PCB.

The "can" (+ve) of the battery connects towards the top of the camera, and the centre contact (-ve) towards the middle. The centre contact lies on the PCB but is insulated from it by a layer of lacquer, the legs extend to the right.

The battery is 6.7mm diameter, 2.1mm thick (excluding contact straps) and is identified as "Sanyo Japan UT621". Expect a residual voltage of around 0.9V, but that doesn't mean it is any use for anything since the nominal voltage is around 3.0V.

Expect the replacement battery to have an off-load voltage of roughly 2.9v.

CHECK POLARITY and solder the new battery, this is sufficiently light relative to the soldered area that it does not need adhesive which would make repetition of this exercise in another 5-10 years less easy.

When reassembling, identify the orientation of the grey two-part connector between the green PCB and the remainder of the camera.

Fit the 3x flex PCBs at the top of the green PCB, pushing them in then flipping the locking bar. Take your time, this is fiddly.

The next step is tricky, since you can't see the connector that you're trying to get to mate.

Insert the green PCB FROM THE BACK OF THE CAMERA, NOT THE CARD COVER END, to engage the connector. Note two small locating pegs next to the card door.

If you get the above step wrong, your camera will appear to be dead at the end of this sequence.

Screw down carefully.

Fit the remaining flex PCBs.

Put the camera back in the right orientation, and fit the flex PCB together with its flat-head silver screw.

Remove the temporarily-fitted viewfinder window, work the camera back slowly into place remembering the card door.

Check for dust, refit the viewfinder window with four screws.

Refit screws, the order is unimportant but getting them in the right place is.

Factory-reset the camera using the sequence given at https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/38383391

-- hide signature --

1. Select P on the mode dial.
2. Open the card door and turn on the camera.
3. Hold down the Menu and the OK buttons at the same time for 5 seconds.
4. Olympus E-520 is displayed.

  1. Release and again hold down the Menu and the OK buttons at the same time for another 5 seconds.
  2. Reset has been done is displayed
  3. Press the OK button.
  4. Shut the camera off

Set the date and time from settings menu 2.

Settings should now persist and the RTC run for a few days, even with the main battery removed.

Your camera is now better than new, since battery technology has improved over the last 15 years.

(c) Mark Morgan Lloyd 2012. Licensed Creative Commons, CC-BY-SA-2.0.

Have fun everybody, and if that sequence works for you I'm glad to have contributed something to the community.


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