Better "Aerochrome" (SD1) with red/yellow/orange filters

Started 3 months ago | Discussions thread
EEvan
EEvan Regular Member • Posts: 252
Re: Better "Aerochrome" (SD1) with red/yellow/orange filters

HiddenRealms wrote:

This is my first post after years of just reading here. It is by far the best source of information on the internet for my project.

I do IR and fullspectrum photography with the Sigma SD1 and in particular trying to emulate the style of Kodak EIR or Aerochrome as simply as possible, without post processing and with repeatability for all.

Maybe there are other users here who are also interested in this. I'd like to share with you what I've found out, and through discussion maybe find out more optimizations.

There are two main methods to get the Aerochroms look with cameras that have Foveon sensors:

1. full spectrum, no filter, custom white balance.
2. Green filter (X1) with around 4100 K

Both methods are ok, but lack (for me) important features of the Aerochrome film: Dark sky, dark water, the general IR reflection effects (hard to pin down to anything) as well as details like yellow-green skin tones and tail lights of cars, red cars appearing yellow etc....

My question: are there ways to get closer to Aerochrome through filters and SPP options and without post-processing?

Especially last summer I experimented extensively with my SD1. I experimented with different filters, X1 (green), as well as K2 (yellow) and 25A (red) and got interesting results using presets and adjustments in SPP. However, I am not a technical specialist and come to my results via trial-and-error.

Further below are some photos and how I made them. I found two things crucial: the Color mode Foveon Classic Blue and the Color Fringe correction in SPP. With the help of these, I came up with the following images. All achieved in SPP with RAW files, without further optimizations.

They are better than just the X1 and/or the full spectrum method (in my opinion), but they still lack some important properties like the changing of colors (red taillights or red-painted things turning yellow for example) or the dark sky (only achievable with red filters) and general coloration. For example, the red filter turns vegetation to red, but there are no nuances or pink/magenta tone like with Aerochrome.

So I ask myself:
What can still be done here? Maybe getting better CWB could be crucial? But how to get it with a red filter on the lens? Maybe a IR cut-off filter could help, a inefficient hot mirror like the Schott KG3?

Has anyone any ideas? Do you think the method with color fringe correction is good?

I hope everything is understandable. I'm happy to answer any questions or give more specifications etc...

Some pictures and the specs

Green and yellow filter:

Hoya Green x1 + Hoya yellow k2... : White balance: Neon... Color mode: Vivid... SPP: Color matrix: G 0.0/A 0.0/M 8.0/B 33.0 Color fringe correction: 0.8/0.8 — 0.5/0.5

Hoya Green x1 + Hoya yellow k2... : White balance: Neon... Color mode: Vivid... SPP: Color matrix: G 0.0/A 0.0/M 8.0/B 33.0 Color fringe correction: 0.8/0.8 — 0.5/0.5

Red filter and polarizer:

Hoya red 25A... White balance: Manual (Custom white balance on white card without filter on – just full spectrum) Color mode: FOV Classic Blue... SPP: Color matrix: G 0.0/A 0.0/M 22.0/B 86.0, Color fringe correction: 0.9/0.4 — 0.5/0.5

Hoya red 25A... White balance: Manual (Custom white balance on white card without filter on – just full spectrum) Color mode: FOV Classic Blue... SPP: Color matrix: G 0.0/A 0.0/M 22.0/B 86.0, Color fringe correction: 0.9/0.4 — 0.5/0.5

I've found setting the WB to Teal and Orange for the Quattro gives the best OOC look with the Green FIlter.

In Camera Settings

You can get it a little more of the Purple or Pink tone in the reds as you found with FOV Blue

But I've found my biggest issue is simply consistency.

I've tried The X1 filter, a NDVI filter, No filter, and an Orange Filter (https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64382231)

And depending how much sunlight there is, and if I accidentally over expose, the effect can be dramatically inconsistent.

So I have switched to shooting in DNG and used Capture One to simply force the colors I'm after:

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