Best NR software for High ISO on R5

Started 7 months ago | Discussions thread
johncal Contributing Member • Posts: 507
Re: I Tried a "shootout" with DXO today

xtam667 wrote:

Hoka Hey wrote:

johncal wrote:

Thanks for explaining your process.

In DXO the first thing I do is the Geometric corrections in one exposure, and then copy and paste those settings to all the other 6 exposures. Then I adjust each image to specifically bring out the different areas such as windows, center room, and hall in this case. then everything is brought into Photoshop and cut and spliced from there.

Are you hand brushing in the layer masks to "splice" or are you automating that?

The typical image takes from 1/2 to 1 hour to complete, but I only spent 60 seconds in the room to take the shot.

Considering that the new DXO 4 is superior not just in NR to Photoshop but also sharpening

Better than using a layer with the High Pass Filter and the overlay blending mode with adjusted opacity?

I used to do that but switched to Smart Sharpen as a Smart Filter over a copy of the base layer and masking as necessary. Smart Sharpen is pretty smart indeed... but Topaz AI Sharpen is smarter still so now that's my favourite for recovering less than ideally sharp pictures. It can create detail out of thin air in Stabilize and Focus modes but in PS I just mask out those artifacts and the results are really good. I do not bother with all this if the picture is reasonably sharp, though. LR sharpening or DXO Lens Sharpen is good enough. DXO is better than LR at sharpening too but the difference is not as obvious compared to noise reduction performance.

Generally l do all my layer work by hand since one time I'm cutting out windows , and another time larger areas, so they all those types of things require a different feather with a different offset. Everything is totally dependent on the image. There is nothing that will automatically do exactly what I need. But that's the artistry in it, so I like that. It's what gives different people different styles.

Also, I usually do "global sharpening" in DXO using the micro-contrast tool. It doesn't actually sharpen, rather it increases the contrast at the very edge pixels where the image changes like along a door frame edge, a grille, or tree branches against a sky. So it really doesn't sharpen but looks sharper. It's an amazingly effective tool when used sparingly. That is how I get bird feathers to Pop. I'm just increasing the contrast along the edges of the barbs of the feathers. By doing this it looks sharper, but it doesn't make it look fake. Rarely, I will use P/S smart sharpen if I need it somewhere.

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