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I guess, factory precal should be pretty good to begin with, however XRite or Datacolor kits will do for fine tunning.I use a BenQ PD3200Q, but haven’t been calibrating — probably should. Any recs for an external calibrator?
All you need is a Dell UltraSharp 32 PremierColor UltraHD 8K Monitor: UP3218K. Hopefully your graphic card can drive 8K.It has been a while since we have had a good monitor discussion. As Medium Format shooters, having a new, big 32 inch 4K IPS high color gamut latest-tech studio monitor is very important in terms of editing and enjoying our MF shots (in my opinion).
I am not a monitor expert, and know far less about the technology than many of the guys on the forum, but I do follow the market and always read about the latest in PC and Apple monitors that are 27 inches and bigger.
I just received my copy of the April Maximum PC last night. It is the Gamers and PC Builder's Bible. It has an amazing article this month that talks about the state of PC monitors in 2020. It is full of fascinating information that is very important to MF photographers who want to have the best information about what is available and why. With apologies to Max PC, I would like to jot down for you some bullets about what the article covered. The article is entitled "2020 Vision." It is about the state of PC screen tech in 2020.
Some of you guys need new monitors, and if you don't have at least a 32 inch 4K IPS professional (meaning not gaming) monitor, then you are not getting what you can out of enjoying your MF output (in my opinion). Here is what the article said:
- Screens today offer more innovation, wider choice and far better value than ever before. But, by some metrics (mainly DPI), PC displays are disappointing in 2020.
- The big innovations are mainly for gamers, like extremely high refresh rates and adaptive sync. Support for HDR is becoming more widespread too, but HDR progress has been slow, extremely confusing and disappointing.
- USB Type-C connectivity has made single-cable hookup easier and better than ever.
- Pixel density: It has not moved forward much at all in PC screen tech. Outright screen resolution has been stuck and rarely moves beyond 4K. Pixel density progress has been a huge disappointment. A decade ago, it seemed obvious that high-DPI displays would be the norm in PC screens by now but it has not happened. There has been little to no change from 10 years ago in terms of dpi.
- It is disappointing that LCD technology remains dominant. Five years ago, we all thought OLED would take over but it has not with PC screens. Except for some small laptop PCs, it is virtually non-existent.
- Example: Take the new HP Z38c - a 38 inch ultra-wide 4K 2K monitor at 3840x1600. Do the pixel density math - 109 PPI, which is worse than a bargain basement 20-inch 1080P monitor that can be had for 75 bucks. Compared to our phones, that pixel density is pathetic. Even cheap phones have over 300 dpi.
- But phone and PC screens are not at all comparable because of size and viewing distance. Apple's "Retina" display standard provides a useful metric. The idea behind it is the human eye's ability to resolve individual pixels, the point at which adding further pixels does nothing to improve sharpness and detail. You can achieve the "Retina" point by moving the screen further away or adding pixels. Apple puts that point at about 300 dpi for phones and 200 for desktop and laptop displays. Those distances and suggested DPI levels can be debated, but it is an instructive example. But the point is that the 109 DPI of many high-end 4K screens for the desktop is not even close. Very few PC screens offer any kind of high-DPI experience. Even a small 24 inch 4K display only gets you 184 DPI. The move to 5K with LG's 5K3K monitor, the ultrawide 34WK95u is a 34 inch display gets you 163 DPI. But LG's 27-inch 5K model finally gets you to 218 DPI.
- Apple's 6000 dollar 32 inch Pro Display XDR is 6K at 6018x3384 and gets you 218 DPI. Dell's new 32 inch 8K monitor (UP3218k - 7680x4320) gets you 275 DPI at 3,500 dollars.
- The best way to get high DPI is with laptops and tablets. Many have 4K at well over 200 DPI, but you will be editing images on a 13 or 15 inch screen.
- There is little prospect of things improving. LCD panels are made by only a very small number of companies (like LG and Samsung) and monitor makers can't do much if they are not making high DPI screens. For 2020 and 2021, there are no signs that high-DPI monitors will be brought into the mainstream as we all predicted just a few years ago.
- Bottom line - you have to have way more than 4K to get high-DPI on larger screens. 2010 and 2021 will not be the year for 5K, 6K or 8K. Nor will it be the years that OLED makes the jump from TV to PC screens.
- OLED? Zero availability for PC monitors, contrary to all predictions. OLED for Laptops? Yes. PCs? No. In fact, it is likely OLED will never be available for PC monitors. PCs will likely skip OLED and jump straight to microLED. OLED just has too many problems for PCs, burn-in and degradation being the biggest. MicroLED is brighter and more stable than OLED with far less burn-in and little degradation. It will be the standard some day, but right now it costs a fortune to produce.
- The big gains in monitor tech now is refresh rates and that is mostly just great for gamers. The article talked a lot about refresh rates and syncing those higher rates with the output (refresh rates of 240 and 360Hz, and the latest G-Sync & Free-Sync to sync it) and the monster GPU cards to drive it all, but I won't cover it here because it is not of serious interest to photographers who want a good and large 4K pro display. (360 sounds ridiculous for a refresh rate because few can see the improvement from 240, but tests have shown that top pro gamers gain a quick trigger-pull advantage at 360. 60 is fine for photographers.)
- Another area of monitor improvement in 2020 is pixel response. In 2019 we had IPS monitors for the first time with 1ms response time. But that was on very high-end displays. It will trickle down in 2020 to more main-stream displays.
So for MF photographers in 2020? (This is me - not the article.) The Pro 32 inch 4K IPS monitor is where it is at. We all need them. And the new ones will hook up to your PC with one little cable that provides everything - display signal, data and charging power. IPS is improving faster than TN. If you don't have one and have spent 15 grand on MF camera equipment, spend another grand and get one now!
I have never used one of the wide gamut monitors - I have always used monitors where you just set it and forget about it - ok maybe run a calibration once in a while.I've been fairly happy with my BenQ monitor, but there's a lot of peace of mind in a monitor that calibrates itself every night while you're asleep.I've been looking for a replacement for the old 32" display I regularly use – an NEC MultiSync 3090WQXi. It's been great but panel tech has moved on and it's definitely showing signs of wear.
I need AdobeRGB but 99% is good enough. I think I'm going for the BenQ SW321C. Seems reasonably priced for what you get. The equivalent NEC's are quite a bit more.
Jim
We do design for print and web, and processing of photos. So we need monitors that cover AdobeRGB, but primarily we need accuracy. Client displays are all over the place. We often hear "That colour you've used for our logo is all wrong" because they have wildly inaccurate monitors and have never seen their logo colours accurately displayed.I have never used one of the wide gamut monitors - I have always used monitors where you just set it and forget about it - ok maybe run a calibration once in a while.I've been fairly happy with my BenQ monitor, but there's a lot of peace of mind in a monitor that calibrates itself every night while you're asleep.I've been looking for a replacement for the old 32" display I regularly use – an NEC MultiSync 3090WQXi. It's been great but panel tech has moved on and it's definitely showing signs of wear.
I need AdobeRGB but 99% is good enough. I think I'm going for the BenQ SW321C. Seems reasonably priced for what you get. The equivalent NEC's are quite a bit more.
Jim
But these wild gamut monitors seem to have different colour modes that one has to select?
Are you changing modes based on your output use? For example, if you are outputting photos for the web - you select the sRGB mode but if you are outputting for print you pick the AdobeRGB mode or if you are doing video you would switch the mode to DCI-P3?
It's not obligatory.I have never used one of the wide gamut monitors - I have always used monitors where you just set it and forget about it - ok maybe run a calibration once in a while.I've been fairly happy with my BenQ monitor, but there's a lot of peace of mind in a monitor that calibrates itself every night while you're asleep.I've been looking for a replacement for the old 32" display I regularly use – an NEC MultiSync 3090WQXi. It's been great but panel tech has moved on and it's definitely showing signs of wear.
I need AdobeRGB but 99% is good enough. I think I'm going for the BenQ SW321C. Seems reasonably priced for what you get. The equivalent NEC's are quite a bit more.
Jim
But these wild gamut monitors seem to have different colour modes that one has to select?
Not for that. If I'm outputting to the web, I convert to sRGB in the image editor. the sRGB gamut is entirely contained within the Adobe RGB gamut.Are you changing modes based on your output use? For example, if you are outputting photos for the web - you select the sRGB mode
If I were proofing video, I'd pick whatever video colorspace was the target, but my video work is infinitesimal.but if you are outputting for print you pick the AdobeRGB mode or if you are doing video you would switch the mode to DCI-P3?
blog.kasson.com
I agree with Greg, ASUS ProArt line of factory calibrated monitors are amazing, and at a good price too. They have 27 inch and 32 inch both sizes. I've been using the ProArt PA328Q since 2014, and have just upgraded to PA329C. I also tried to use the xrite iDisplay Pro calibrator and it always returns a -5 on brightness, everything else is spot on at factory settings.You need a 32 inch IPS 4K. Nothing else will do if you shoot MF. The ASUS ProArt line just keeps getting better and better. Check out their ProArt 32 inch 4K IPS professional wide color gamut color calibrated monitors. They start at over a grand, but you won't believe your eyes.
X-rite iDisplay Pro is a really good one.I use a BenQ PD3200Q, but haven’t been calibrating — probably should. Any recs for an external calibrator?
For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration. So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
Hi,For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration. So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
I've also found in many youtube videos about printing, they recommend to push the histogram before printing in an attempt to compensate for the fact the monitors are back illuminated whereas prints are front lit. I've found that pushing image luminosity before printing is a flawed method, because there is a hard limit for the white level that can be achieved in prints: this hard limit is the photo paper itself. So, I don't over brighten my images for printing, I only adjust for centering of image histogram. My solution to overcome the difference between back lit/front lit was to project a good amount of light on the prints themselves when viewing them, using arrays of high CRI 4000K led lights. So, far, I'm very satisfied with the results.
Short of saturation, that is surprising. The LCD filters are not affected by brightness, just the backlight. Well done LED PWM should not have this issue.For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
I think histogram is a great tool for getting good exposures, but a lousy tool for soft proofing.So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.
I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
Ah, the old self-luminous thing. I deal with it through experience and tweak the last bit in with hard proofing. I don't have the space for a viewing booth that negates the self-luminous psychological effect.I've also found in many youtube videos about printing, they recommend to push the histogram before printing in an attempt to compensate for the fact the monitors are back illuminated whereas prints are front lit.
I don't brighten my images for printing at all.I've found that pushing image luminosity before printing is a flawed method, because there is a hard limit for the white level that can be achieved in prints: this hard limit is the photo paper itself. So, I don't over brighten my images for printing, I only adjust for centering of image histogram.
--My solution to overcome the difference between back lit/front lit was to project a good amount of light on the prints themselves when viewing them, using arrays of high CRI 4000K led lights. So, far, I'm very satisfied with the results.
Turns out I'm not alone:I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
Yes, this is surprising, I would have thought the system to be rather linear especially when lowering luminosity, but apparently it's not. My 10 years old IPS monitor has a default factory hardware calibration setting mode, any change of monitor parameters automatically disable the factory hardware calibrated mode, then it is not possible to reach as much gamut volume when the default factory setting is disabled (I've tried many times, trying different things), the default factory cal mode is what give the best starting point for a software based calibration.Short of saturation, that is surprising. The LCD filters are not affected by brightness, just the backlight. Well done LED PWM should not have this issue.For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
- How are you measuring the volume? CIElab? CIELuv?
- How are you calculating the reference?
- Where does the gamut change?
- Are you claiming nonlinear effects?
Unless printers have a limited dynamic range like digital sensors...I think histogram is a great tool for getting good exposures, but a lousy tool for soft proofing.So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.
So what do you do then in soft proofing? Black level only to compensate for paper dmax?I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
Ah, the old self-luminous thing. I deal with it through experience and tweak the last bit in with hard proofing. I don't have the space for a viewing booth that negates the self-luminous psychological effect.I've also found in many youtube videos about printing, they recommend to push the histogram before printing in an attempt to compensate for the fact the monitors are back illuminated whereas prints are front lit.
I don't brighten my images for printing at all.I've found that pushing image luminosity before printing is a flawed method, because there is a hard limit for the white level that can be achieved in prints: this hard limit is the photo paper itself. So, I don't over brighten my images for printing, I only adjust for centering of image histogram.
My solution to overcome the difference between back lit/front lit was to project a good amount of light on the prints themselves when viewing them, using arrays of high CRI 4000K led lights. So, far, I'm very satisfied with the results.
We can find a lot of things online, mostly superficial, mostly refactored from prior online content, various versions of the same superficial content. You can go much further by doing your own tests, and solving you problems yourself as opposed to asking solutions to google search engine.Turns out I'm not alone:I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
https://imagescience.com.au/knowled...ong experience shows that an,80 and 120 cd/m2.
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1387586/
But that's not enough unless you use an appropriate surround. With a black image-editing surround, your prints will still be too dark.
Thank you for your sagacious general comments.We can find a lot of things online, mostly superficial, mostly refactored from prior online content, various versions of the same superficial content. You can go much further by doing your own tests, and solving you problems yourself as opposed to asking solutions to google search engine.Turns out I'm not alone:I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
https://imagescience.com.au/knowled...ong experience shows that an,80 and 120 cd/m2.
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1387586/
But that's not enough unless you use an appropriate surround. With a black image-editing surround, your prints will still be too dark.
I've long hung on answers from internet search engines, trying to find solutions from what other people have published online, until I realized that I can do better, much better by using my own problem solving skillsVery often, answers from the web are popular answers , but often not the best answers.
You didn't answer any of the first three questions.Yes, this is surprising,Short of saturation, that is surprising. The LCD filters are not affected by brightness, just the backlight. Well done LED PWM should not have this issue.For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
- How are you measuring the volume? CIElab? CIELuv?
- How are you calculating the reference?
- Where does the gamut change?
- Are you claiming nonlinear effects?
That's pretty old. What is the backlight technology? If it's CCFL, there could easily be nonlinearities.I would have thought the system to be rather linear especially when lowering luminosity, but apparently it's not. My 10 years old IPS monitor has a default factory hardware calibration setting mode,
If you'd answer the questions above, I might be able to comment on your specific case.any change of monitor parameters automatically disable the factory hardware calibrated mode, then it is not possible to reach as much gamut volume when the default factory setting is disabled (I've tried many times, trying different things), the default factory cal mode is what give the best starting point for a software based calibration.
Actually, the correct raw exposure has nothing at all to do the the dynamic range of printers; it is the exposure that gets the most photons to the sensor while avoiding clipping in areas that the photographer cares about.Unless printers have a limited dynamic range like digital sensors...I think histogram is a great tool for getting good exposures, but a lousy tool for soft proofing.So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.
I know some people do that. I've done it to test the idea. If your monitor is too bright, it's better than nothing.My choice was to edit my images so that they look how I want them to look on display. Then, in order to compensate for the backlit/frontlit effect, I boost the lighting on the prints, and it works amazingly well.
That's certainly true. Many museums and galleries, including most of the ones where I've displayed my images, limit the lighting level to protect the images. Some of them have archival responsibilities which dictate that.I've been really impressed by how much quality added light can make prints look outstanding.
First, I use the monitor brightness that I've described.So what do you do then in soft proofing? Black level only to compensate for paper dmax?I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
Ah, the old self-luminous thing. I deal with it through experience and tweak the last bit in with hard proofing. I don't have the space for a viewing booth that negates the self-luminous psychological effect.I've also found in many youtube videos about printing, they recommend to push the histogram before printing in an attempt to compensate for the fact the monitors are back illuminated whereas prints are front lit.
I don't brighten my images for printing at all.I've found that pushing image luminosity before printing is a flawed method, because there is a hard limit for the white level that can be achieved in prints: this hard limit is the photo paper itself. So, I don't over brighten my images for printing, I only adjust for centering of image histogram.
That's right. I'm afraid I experimented with the color cal. of my monitor several years ago, so I don't remember how the calibrated gamut changed when I tweaked monitor settings. I'd need to get into this again to answer your questions , and I don't currently have the time/will to do it, sorry. But thanks for trying to help.You didn't answer any of the first three questions.Yes, this is surprising,Short of saturation, that is surprising. The LCD filters are not affected by brightness, just the backlight. Well done LED PWM should not have this issue.For my monitor, I've found that the luminosity setting has an effect on the max volume of color gamut that can be achieved by calibration.I do normally keep my monitor much brighter than when I do soft proofing, which I do at 80 -100 cd/m2. I've got a different setting for that:
- How are you measuring the volume? CIElab? CIELuv?
- How are you calculating the reference?
- Where does the gamut change?
- Are you claiming nonlinear effects?
I fully agree, the correct raw exposure has nothing at all to do with the dynamic range of the printer. I would also add that monitor brightness is unrelated to the brightness of the print which depends on paper and front lighting, beside the lose link of subjective changing human perception. That's why I think relying on monitor soft proofing is a very weak method , yet popular method. Matching the content of the export file (histo+range of colors) to the capabilities of the print process is however much more robust than soft proofing with the eyes via a monitor that can't show the range of printed colors. Yet, everyone mess around soft proofing and always get surprised that the prints that never quite match what they see on their monitors. I jumped out of the soft proofing bandwagon, I use printer+paper color spaces and hard proofing, I have no surprises.That's pretty old. What is the backlight technology? If it's CCFL, there could easily be nonlinearities.I would have thought the system to be rather linear especially when lowering luminosity, but apparently it's not. My 10 years old IPS monitor has a default factory hardware calibration setting mode,
If you'd answer the questions above, I might be able to comment on your specific case.any change of monitor parameters automatically disable the factory hardware calibrated mode, then it is not possible to reach as much gamut volume when the default factory setting is disabled (I've tried many times, trying different things), the default factory cal mode is what give the best starting point for a software based calibration.
Actually, the correct raw exposure has nothing at all to do the the dynamic range of printers; it is the exposure that gets the most photons to the sensor while avoiding clipping in areas that the photographer cares about.Unless printers have a limited dynamic range like digital sensors...I think histogram is a great tool for getting good exposures, but a lousy tool for soft proofing.So, I use the luminosity setting that allow the largest color gamut on my monitor, and I rely on histogram for the images I want to print.
Yes, and if your monitor is too dim, you just push the histogram to the left until it clips because you can't go further. So, why not just forget about monitor and just center the histogram in the middle of the range printable by the print process?I know some people do that. I've done it to test the idea. If your monitor is too bright, it's better than nothing.My choice was to edit my images so that they look how I want them to look on display. Then, in order to compensate for the backlit/frontlit effect, I boost the lighting on the prints, and it works amazingly well.
For my prints' show room, the lights are switched on only during show times, otherwise in near darkness (room closed). Given 30 (and much more for pigment inks) years archival rating at 10 hours daily light dose, it's not a few weeks of illumination per year that are going to age the prints very much. In addition, the remaining time outside exhibition times, prints are stored in the dark. And, if print aging is a problem, say if you exhibit 6 months per year, you can even have a second copy permanently stored in the dark, you can even re-print if necessary.That's certainly true. Many museums and galleries, including most of the ones where I've displayed my images, limit the lighting level to protect the images. Some of them have archival responsibilities which dictate that.I've been really impressed by how much quality added light can make prints look outstanding.
Yes. Thanks a lot for the clarification.First, I use the monitor brightness that I've described.So what do you do then in soft proofing? Black level only to compensate for paper dmax?I've been using that since 1992, when I had a $20,000 Barco monitor and a $40,000 Dupont 4Cast printer. Glad that prices have come down.I'd be interested to know how you came up with your choice of 80-100 cd/m2 for soft proofing?
Ah, the old self-luminous thing. I deal with it through experience and tweak the last bit in with hard proofing. I don't have the space for a viewing booth that negates the self-luminous psychological effect.I've also found in many youtube videos about printing, they recommend to push the histogram before printing in an attempt to compensate for the fact the monitors are back illuminated whereas prints are front lit.
I don't brighten my images for printing at all.I've found that pushing image luminosity before printing is a flawed method, because there is a hard limit for the white level that can be achieved in prints: this hard limit is the photo paper itself. So, I don't over brighten my images for printing, I only adjust for centering of image histogram.
Second, I use a light surround that's wide enough to simulate the end viewer's surround.
I use a monitor hood.
Third, I control my visual adaptation with the ambient room light. I don't soft proof in darkness.
Then, paper Dmax simulation can come into play. If the profile is designed properly, that can be done in the profile. However, Dmax depends on viewing geometry, and there's really no substitute for taking hard proofs to the venue to make sure you've got it right.
Jim
Museums and some galleries have a responsibility to preserve the object. To them, a second copy is a different object. I know prints can look a lot better when the light is brighter, but that's not in the cards for many exhibit spaces.For my prints' show room, the lights are switched on only during show times, otherwise in near darkness (room closed). Given 30 (and much more for pigment inks) years archival rating at 10 hours daily light dose, it's not a few weeks of illumination per year that are going to age the prints very much. In addition, the remaining time outside exhibition times, prints are stored in the dark. And, if print aging is a problem, say if you exhibit 6 months per year, you can even have a second copy permanently stored in the dark, you can even re-print if necessary.
blog.kasson.com
Actually, the correct raw exposure has nothing at all to do the the dynamic range of printers; it is the exposure that gets the most photons to the sensor while avoiding clipping in areas that the photographer cares about.Unless printers have a limited dynamic range like digital sensors...I think histogram is a great tool for getting good exposures, but a lousy tool for soft proofing.
In that case, I am confused by the point that you're making above. Can you explain?I fully agree, the correct raw exposure has nothing at all to do with the dynamic range of the printer.
Can you at least tell me if the backlight on your display is CCFL or LED? If it's CCFL, I understand why it could be nonlinear.That's right. I'm afraid I experimented with the color cal. of my monitor several years ago, so I don't remember how the calibrated gamut changed when I tweaked monitor settings.