Question about tilt-shift adapting a normal lens.

Started 2 months ago | Questions thread
Truman Prevatt
Truman Prevatt Forum Pro • Posts: 11,645
Re: Question about tilt-shift adapting a normal lens.

HybridN wrote:

Truman Prevatt wrote:

HybridN wrote:

Thank you for your replies, and I specially appreciate your help michaeldawson. The part with the shifted distortions would never go through my mind, and only in experience you would stumble upon it. It was a great point, and maybe a tipping point that shift adapters are not the best idea. That would get other problems for the architecture photography that are not worth the hassle. The simplest way seems like a wide angle lens meant for FUJI and correct the distortions in post. And maybe Fuji line is not the best choice in this line of photography.

The concept of camera movements is to give the photographer the flexibility to control the orientation of the focus plane and subject plane. This has two benefits. First it can prevent geometric distortion as often known as "keystoning." Second it can provide for large depth of field in for example landscape where the focal plane is tilted in space and the DOF is around that tilted focal plane. For examples of this see some of Ansel Adams magnificent landscape shots.

For say keystoning - by shifting the lens all lines will be prevented from converging. If one uses a regular lens and then relies on S/W only one plane in space can be corrected properly as the distortion differs on different planes slicked through the volume the image is projecting. That is while one might correct covering line in one plane - that will not fully correct them in other places.

A good high quality FF manual focus lens should be adequate for a Fuji using a good adaptor.

Probably the best option would be to pick up a Combo Actus for the X mount and a good used RZ/RB Mamiya lens or two to use with your X camera.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1131859-REG/cambo_99010708_actus_camerabody_black_fuji.html

It is the best solution but it is not inexpensive.

Hey thanks for the advices, I appreciate them. I'm an amateur still in photography but I read quite on the practical uses of the cameras. The tilt and shift is not quite unfamiliar to me, as I watch a lot of photographers use Large format film cameras. Those are great!

As for the tilt option I do not need it much, as in digital you can use the focus stacking method I guess.

In some cases but what if there is a stream running down from the top of the frame to the bottom and you want the top of the frame and the big rock in front of you in focus? Now add a few Aspen trees and a little wind - focus stacking would fall apart. Many of the bracketing methods are wonderful in certain situations but most require stationary shots and out doors in the land scape such stationary is not at best a luxury not a given.

And the ACTUS solution I see is really nice, as it would basically turn a Fuji camera in a "large format" style option. I have a Hasselblad 500cm that I use it occasionally, maybe in a future it might be possible to adapt the lenses. Just the price is a little bit too high for now.

I spend a lot of time in my younger days lugging a large camera in the the CO back country. I had my Mamiya RB67 (which focused by bellows ) modified to support tilts and shifts and used it often as a view camera. Then I had my 4x5 field camera. Some times in summer sometimes on skies in the winter I would pack one into the CO backcountry. . I still have a 4x5 field camera, film holders and a couple of lenses. If I really got interested in landscape again - I pull out my 4x5, load up some film holders with good old TriX and head out. The beauty of camera movements with in landscape - there are no compromises. All the "digital bracketing options" are either compromises or only work under limited conditions.

What would the 80 mm of the medium format be on the APS-C, as I still can not visualize how much of that lens would be used (the image circle)?

The image circle on an Hassey 80 mm is designed to cover corner to corner a 60 mm by 60 mm negative. The equivalent FOV is about a 50 mm FF lens (the 80 is the "normal lens for the 6x6). So there is plenty of image circle to cover an APSC - only using the sweet spot of the of the lens. You might want to pick up an adaptor that uses the Hassey on the X mount (if one exist) and see how it works.

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