Nikon D3500 or Sony A7 III ? (Also Sony A6600 or Nikon Z50) for absolute beginner

Started 4 months ago | Discussions thread
Craig Gillette Forum Pro • Posts: 10,845
Re: Nikon D3500 or Sony A7 III ? (Also Sony A6600 or Nikon Z50) for absolute beginner

sonic123 wrote:

Thank you all very much. I've made my mind and bought a NIKON Z50. Everything you all have said about is the "photographer not the camera" is absolutely true BUT over a week I've been seeing a lot of "sample galleries" of many cameras and, don't know why, the Nikon photos stand out to me. Don't know if that's what is called "color science" and that each camera manufacturer have their own one or what but all the Nikon photos had color renditions that I really liked.

I understand what you are telling me about that an iPhone can take better photos than a professional camera if the professional camera is in the wrong hands, more in my case in which I change my iPhone every year (replacing my iPhone 11 Pro Max with the iPhone 12 Pro Max) but I would really like to take a further step onto photography being that specially iPhone are very limited in the tweaks you can do in the photo shooting.

One thing to consider is you can save files in camera as RAW, JPG or RAW+JPG.  RAW+JPG allows you to select some in camera adjustments, like "Picture Controls" that will be applied to the JPGs but also have the RAW files available if you you should want to do more with them.

I don't like the idea of post-processing. I mean, if I have a whole of things yet to learn about using the camera, I don't even want to begin thinking about the big learning curve of programs like Lightroom. Curiously enough, I "played" with some RAW files that I downloaded from DPREVIEW and applied the filters of a most basic free program like WINDOWS PHOTO and the preset filters made wonders to the original RAW pictures. Guess that's easy when the "source" is a good as those RAW files.

These filters can often be similar to the in camera "Picture Controls."  The advantage to having the RAW files is that you can make changes and go back where with only having JPGs, there can be limitations to some of the corrections you can make.  What you may want to do is read up on what the filters/picture controls, scene modes, etc., are doing so you can begin to recognize scenarios where you could make those changes on your own either in direct settings or in "editing."

Even if you choose to set in camera adjustments, photo editing programs can be valuable.  Things like cropping, "correcting" little problems like red-eye or spots.  Downsizing for on screen sharing.  I typically crop images to 16:9 when I'm going to "share" because that fits TV screens, etc.  The methods or approaches in the basic/simpler editors are often easily moved to the more comprehensive programs, or, the more comprehensive programs can be used on a fairly basic level, too.

I will try to learn and practice with my Z50 and hopefully, at one time, get good results. I know I won't get immediate results.

Explore what changing aperture and shutter speeds does.   As the aperture is opened/closed, the depth of field of field changes. As shutter speed changes, motion may be recorded as blur or frozen.  Both aspects have benefits or problems.  Sometimes freezing motion is more important than depth of field.  Sometimes more depth of field is desired.

BONUS CURIOUS QUESTION: In the responses to my post, I've read someone saying that one of the photos he was most proud of when young, was a b&w photo he took with a basic film (not digital) point-and-shoot camera. The QUESTION is: Back in those days, when you had to take the negatives to the shop for them to print them, how did you got a b&w photo? Do they have to use a special paper? A special program? Or was that you actually had to buy a special b&w film so all photos you take with that film were going to be b&w ones? Thank you.

Film was/is a chemical process.  Light energy causes chemical changes to the chemicals on the "film" or the paper being printed on.  Light changes "color" as the frequency of the radiation changes so it's possible to create filters or chemistry sensitive to different frequencies.   "Black & White" films/papers are typically simpler and less expensive than color so usually one used/uses b&w films and papers for b&w uses and color films /papers for color.  One can use color "film" and print as black and white.  It's more complicated but not impossible to use "black and white" and get "color" results.  Films and papers were tailored for specific applications.

Thank you all. Best regards,

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