Started Nov 18, 2020 | Discussions thread
viewfindr2 Junior Member • Posts: 30
Re: PEN F for OMD-EM10 IV ?

2ndact scene1 wrote:

viewfindr2 wrote:

>> "One thing the Fuji taught me was to not be a RAW only snob."

Raw-only-shooters aren't snobs, they just understand that raw files offer so many more options to access all the data a file has.

I shoot Fuji (XT10) and Olympus (PEN-F, EM10 MKIV), and while all their JPGs are excellent, the in-camera processors don't come close to accessing the full-potential of a raw file.

Yes, JPG has its place. An even better choice is shooting Large Superfine JPG + raw. Especially when shooting with the PEN-F and opening the ORF files in Olympus Workspace.

If the JPG produced by the camera is good, and it's all you need: great. Then go with it. Stop there.

However, to access the full exposure latitude of a PEN-F image, in-camera custom profiles or Art Filter effects are recognized when opened in Workspace, and then applied to the raw file in the develop module "Edit/Basic/Picture Mode."

You can even make your own custom profiles either in the camera or in Workspace. Here's a tutorial:

Or, if you want an Art Filter but didn't use the in-camera ones, just apply the identical ones as the camera in "Edit/Effect/Art Filter."

Then, if additional adjustments are needed (ie; clarity, dehaze, highlight/shadow, or selective noise reduction and sharpening), they can be done in Workspace, or you can save as a TIF to adjust further in another editor.

Of course you can do all this on a JPG, but it results in a far inferior final result, not just due to lack of access to the full dynamic range of the file, but you're saving an already compressed JPG a second time.

One other advantage to shooting raw: I've re-edited raw files years later and always get a better result than done initially. So I always recommend keeping them.

IMO, this isn't snobbish. It's just using the PEN-F to its full potential.

To clarify my comment, I used to dismiss jpegs completely. More than once I found my camera set to jpeg after experimenting with a scene mode and been very upset. so I was the RAW only snob. What my experience with Fuji has taught me is that the jpeg sometimes needs no further processing. Furthermore, my skill at postprocessing the RAW (and interest in spending a lot of time acquiring additional skill) hassometimes not been sufficient to reproduce the tones in monochrome jpegs SOOC. Obviously, you need a RAW file to deal with significant issues with an image, but sometimes you get it right in camera! Not to bore you, but I am dropping Lightroom when my subscription runs out and I have gone all in on DxO PhotoLab. It works great on Canon and Olympus files but can only handle Fuji JPEGs, many of which actually turn out to benefit from some processing (such as contrast, shadows and color within limits).

Someone pointed out that the Olympus software applies the JPEG color profile to the RAW files duplicating the look of the JPEG. So that might be the best of both worlds. In fact I will try it out on some TG 6 RAW when I get chance today or tomorrow.

So just to be clear, I will shoot RAW plus JPEG and choose which to process on case by case basis.

You don't have to pay for Lightroom to process Fuji raw files. Every camera comes with a basic raw converter that'll get you a usable TIF file from the raw, which then can be edited in another editor like DxO.

This is Fuji's:

There are also many free editors that'll do a superb job of converting Fuji raw files: ie: Darktable, LightZone, RawTherapee, Gimp.

Then, of course, there's Adobe's free DNG Converter, that'll convert any raw file to a DNG raw file that can be edited in DxO or any other editor.
So, it's not an "either-or." You can - and should - shoot both. Then delete the raw later if you know you'll never need it.

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 viewfindr2's gear list:viewfindr2's gear list
Fujifilm XF10 Olympus PEN E-PL2 Olympus PEN E-PM2 Nikon D610 Olympus PEN-F +42 more
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