Started Nov 18, 2020 | Discussions thread
viewfindr2 Junior Member • Posts: 30
Re: PEN F for OMD-EM10 IV ?

Raist3d wrote:

viewfindr2 wrote:

>> "One thing the Fuji taught me was to not be a RAW only snob."

Raw-only-shooters aren't snobs, they just understand that raw files offer so many more options to access all the data a file has.'

I wouldn't say raw-only shooters are all snobs, but in that statement often lies some snobbery. What if the JPEGS are simply good enough? What if you don't want more options but what you saw and captured? Everyone is different.

I remember reading of a Canon wedding photographer that would use JPEGS because he nailed the exposure and got what he wanted. That guy has a huge advantage over RAW shooters as his post processing workflow will most likely be far faster.

It really depends what one is doing. More options is not always good. I find the PenF B&W and Color JPEG engine fantastic for many shots and replicating these on RAW sometimes is just a cumbersome exercise I rather spend shooting around.

But to re-iterate - not all shooters are like that. But if I had to take a guess, the OP was referring here to those that tell someone that if they are shooting JPEGS they are doing something wrong.

I shoot Fuji (XT10) and Olympus (PEN-F, EM10 MKIV), and while all their JPGs are excellent, the in-camera processors don't come close to accessing the full-potential of a raw file.

Yes, JPG has its place. An even better choice is shooting Large Superfine JPG + raw. Especially when shooting with the PEN-F and opening the ORF files in Olympus Workspace.

If the JPG produced by the camera is good, and it's all you need: great. Then go with it. Stop there.

However, to access the full exposure latitude of a PEN-F image, in-camera custom profiles or Art Filter effects are recognized when opened in Workspace, and then applied to the raw file in the develop module "Edit/Basic/Picture Mode."

You can even make your own custom profiles either in the camera or in Workspace. Here's a tutorial:

Or, if you want an Art Filter but didn't use the in-camera ones, just apply the identical ones as the camera in "Edit/Effect/Art Filter."

Then, if additional adjustments are needed (ie; clarity, dehaze, highlight/shadow, or selective noise reduction and sharpening), they can be done in Workspace, or you can save as a TIF to adjust further in another editor.

Of course you can do all this on a JPG, but it results in a far inferior final result, not just due to lack of access to the full dynamic range of the file, but you're saving an already compressed JPG a second time.

One other advantage to shooting raw: I've re-edited raw files years later and always get a better result than done initially. So I always recommend keeping them.

IMO, this isn't snobbish. It's just using the PEN-F to its full potential.

I think you missed where I said this:

"If the JPG produced by the camera is good, and it's all you need: great. Then go with it. Stop there."

-- hide signature --

Landscapes & Travel: @tom_freda_photo
B&W street: @viewfinder_bw
Colour street: @viewfinder_clr
Infrared: @viewfinder_ir

 viewfindr2's gear list:viewfindr2's gear list
Fujifilm XF10 Olympus PEN E-PL2 Olympus PEN E-PM2 Nikon D610 Olympus PEN-F +42 more
Post (hide subjects) Posted by
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow