Konica Minolta Dynax 7D in 2020 as a digital companion for the film Dynax 7

Nice start with your new camera .

With regard to your focussing issues , on the sample shown she is wearing what's effectively a camouflage jacket .

Wide AF on cameras with just a handful of fairly large focus points can also be known as "do you feel lucky AF mode "!

The camera has locked focus on the nearest clearly defined object , the tree .

With modern cameras that have a couple of dozen to a few hundred selectable AF points , you can select what's important to focus on .

On all my older cameras I have them set to centre spot AF , lock focus and recompose , in this case the eyes .

Or if the target is quite away from the centre I might select another focus point .

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WRT the AntiShake .

It's a fairly common fault with with IBIS where the rods that move the sensor around can break , especially if the camera is dropped .

FFB and a broken AS unit are the two main issues with these cameras .

The easy way to tell is first off looking in the viewfinder .

On the right hand side are 5 vertical dashes that light up to indicate the amount of correction being applied .

These are activated ( with AS on ) when you press the shutter button . Initially all 5 will light up and depending on how steady you hold the camera and the focal length of the lens used they will go out leaving just one or two on .

So a 50mm lens , in good light , with a large aperture , only 1 bar will be lit up .

A 200mm lens on a dull day , with a small aperture selected , most of the lights will be lit up .

The steadier you hold it , the less lights lit up , if you have the shakes , more lights will light up .

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If the AF unit is faulty , all 5 light are lit and don't go out .

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The other way to check is to set the camera to manual exposure and take a shot lasting more than a few seconds .

Fire the shutter and hold the rear LCD to your ear , if on , you'll hear a constant buzzing noise .

All that means its working just fine .

Turn AS off it's on a tripod or you'll have a blurred picture . Early cameras couldn't work out they were on a tripod and still try to correct for the natural movement in a human body .

So if the cameras on a firm tripod , and the sensors moving , it does the opposite .

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With regards to lenses , as Joseph suggests , you definitely want to look at getting the 70-210mm f/4 beercan .

Another one to look out for is either the Minolta 24-85mm or 24-105mm , between one of them and the beercan your pretty much sorted .

For 50mm lenses I also have the Sony 50mm f/1.4 , sure it's sharper stopped down a little , the f/2.8 macro is sharper wide open than the f/1.4 at f/2.8 .

However the 50mm f/2.8 macro lens is terrible at taking shots at f/1.4 but the f/1.4 can always be stopped down the f/2.8 !

For portraits f/1.4 is useful .

If your looking for a 50mm macro , also take a look at the f/3.5 version . Only goes to 1:2 ratio rather than 1:1 of the f/2.8 , but it's my most used macro .

Very sharp and lovely bokeh . Cheaper than the f/2.8 too .

Broom . Minolta 50mm f/3.5 Macro

Orchid , Minolta 50mm f/3.5 Macro