Collapsing Building

Started 3 months ago | Questions thread
Horacecoker Veteran Member • Posts: 3,278
Re: Collapsing Building
1

Jestertheclown wrote:

Horacecoker wrote:

grisog wrote:

Why does this building look like its collapsing inward? (Leaning backwards)

I run into this problem whenever I'm fairly close to my subject.

What am I doing wrong and what should I be doing differently?

Sides leaning inwards

As other forum members have put you right on your ‘collapsing inwards’ problem. I thought I’d mention a more fundamental problem you seem to have with your photography and that’s your choice of exposure settings. Due to the settings you used the image quality is very poor and it doesn’t need to be. Using an aperture of f/25 on a Canon APS-C camera will result in quite severe diffraction issues that reduce image quality as it’s equivalent to shooting at f/40 on full-frame. Also using an ISO of 3200 is also going to degrade image quality due to excessive noise as 3200 ISO will have the same noisiness as shooting at 8,200 ISO on full-frame. It’s this noise and diffraction combined that as resulted in the poor image quality.

I see you were shooting in shutter priority mode and have set a shutter speed of 1/100 second. In auto ISO the camera would have probably then set an aperture of f/5.6 and an ISO of 200. Thereby eliminating diffraction issues and keeping noise to a minimum. (This is the goal of auto settings on most cameras). But as the image was shot at 3,200 ISO it forced the camera to set an aperture of f/25, I can only assume that you have set this high ISO yourself?

The first thing you need to do is put the camera back to auto ISO!

I can't agree with that.

While he settings used here are certainly not ideal,

That's quite an understatement!

switching to aperture and using auto ISO (you don't mention a cap) will, very likely, just lead to equally extreme settings.

In aperture priority, the camera will choose a shutter speed that minimises camera shake then an ISO to suit and chose the lowest ISO possible. There would be no extreme settings involved especially in full sunshine as the OPs image was taken.

In fact, if you're going to automate everything except the aperture, you might as well use programme or full auto.

For general snaps maybe but not for landscapes, portraits and a myriad of other subjects. In full auto mode how would the camera know how little or how much DOF you required and set an aperture accordingly?

I have a user setting on my Z7 using manual shutter and aperture with auto ISO, capped at 3200 which is a particularly convenient way to shoot but it's not a setting that I go to very often.

Most cameras nowadays have such a setting. If you are a fairly experienced photographer and have a rudimentary knowledge of exposure settings, it's an excellent way of working. But I don't think the OP is an experienced photographer and he/she is who my post was aimed at.

Far better, I find, to use aperture but set the ISO myself, depending upon the situation and adjust it accordingly to get the exposure time that suits.

Now, this is where I disagree as it seems backwards to me. How does the camera know what exposure time (shutter speed) is required for any given situation? For instance In aperture priority mode, If you upped the ISO manually to induce a faster shutter speed to freeze motion it makes more sense to use manual mode and set the exact shutter speed you require in the first place and let auto ISO change the ISO as needed. Doing it that way always ensures the lowest ISO possible. Your way seems like a guessing game to me.

For this shot, I'd have used native ISO, 64 in my case, aperture, probably about f8 and let the exposure time sort itself out.

With the camera on a tripod that's a good way of working but handheld is a different story, you could finish up with too low a shutter speed to avoid camera shake.

By using f8 and auto ISO, there's no telling what it might have selected.

In aperture priority using f/8 and auto ISO, the OP's camera (any camera) will choose a shutter speed that minimises camera shake and then chose the lowest ISO possible. There would be no extreme settings involved, especially in full sunshine as the OPs image was taken.

I would also advise you to use aperture priority, not shutter priority with static images like this.

To get the whole image in acceptable focus an aperture of f/8 would have been fine (f/8 on Canon APS-C sensor is equivalent to f/13 on full-frame for the same depth of field). The camera would have then set a shutter speed of 1/60 and an ISO of 200. The result would have been far better image quality. Even f/5.6 (f/9 on FF) would probably have achieved enough DOF due to the wide-angle focal length the shot was taken at. That would have brought the ISO down to the camera’s native setting of 100 and resulted in the absolute minimum noise.

Here’s a 100% crop to illustrate the very poor image quality I’m referring to.

The above is what the camera produced with your exposure settings of f/25, 1/100 sec & 3,200 ISO. Lots of unnecessary noise, a complete lack of sharpness and no detail in the brickwork due to both noise and diffraction.

If you'd used the camera settings I've suggested (f/5.6 1/60 sec & 100 ISO) the difference in image quality would have been huge!

Something like this below only much better because I can only do so much in post-processing, especially with regards to severe diffraction.

You have a very decent camera and lens but you need to learn the basics regards camera settings to get the best out of it.

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