TG-6 Best settings for landscape photos without RAW processing

Started 4 months ago | Discussions thread
smithaa02 Regular Member • Posts: 214
Re: TG-6 Best settings for landscape photos without RAW processing

Blahdi wrote:

Thanks to all

how do I use the ND Filter - just set to Aperture priority mode?

Use aperture priority and choose the small aperture. The last/smallest aperture is actually a fake aperture setting...and actually the ND filter.

your awesome suggestions.
I have modified TG-6 to to these settings below, and now the 'test' pictures are better (see example picture below).
2 Basic Questions:
1. How do I see Peaking color in the LCD screen? Peaking color is set to Red - but don't see it anywhere ion the LCD. 2) how do I interpret the histograms (White, Red, Blue, Green and exposure histogram]
Here are my new settings:

I'm not sure...I think that is covered in the manual somewhere.

Program: P or A mode [either is used] i-enhance low - saturation = +2. [ gradation is normal. I am planning to set gradation = auto]

Gradation is tricky.  In most cases you want it off.  What auto does is in essence do shadow recovery artificially.  In some cases this can look in high dynamic scenes.  I also use gradation auto for macro to counter the shadows created by the flash.  But for landscape I prefer gradation normal (aka off...the default).

iso 100 [I try to take picture at iso 100 if possible by increasing or decreasing exposure]

You don't need to change exposure to change iso.  You can set iso directly...or you can set a max iso from the menu and/or you can set a minimum shutter speed.

wb auto


3:2 picture size - yes - makes a difference.

I disagree with this.  The native sensor is 4:3...what you're doing is just cropping by using 3:2 which you can do in post anyways.  I suppose if a scene has extreme dynamic range (such as a bright sky) in special select cases it might help to use 3:2...but generally I prefer 4:3.


Stabilizer on

Flash off


I prefer the default for landscape...but in some cases spot can be nice...especially when your subject is against a strong or weak background.

face priority = on

I keep this off...I suspect it doesn't help for landscapes.  If you do have actual faces it might help...I don't know.

iso auto shift - 100 default, 400 max

Which is ok in sunny conditions...400 in dark conditions might not be enough unless you have a way of stabilizing the camera for longer SS.

lowest ss setting - [Q: what should this setting be?]

I prefer auto.  If you were shorting a fast scene...say whitewater kayakers going down rapids you might prefer a min SS to freeze the action.  But that's dangerous...the camera only has two aperture a fast SS will simply mean more iso noise...or an under-exposed image.

noise filter off

noise red = off

keep warm color = off

In some cases "keep warm color" can look ok.  Usually "man made objects" (buildings/bridges/etc...) look nice with this setting.  While natural objects (trees/grasses/water) look better without it.  I don't think it is a WB setting per say...rather I think it just boosts the saturation of the reds in the image.

Tips to take picture:
a) modify exposure (using wheel) such that the picture is not overexposed anywhere.

That quick exposure wheel is awesome.  Under-exposing with the TG-6 is a great trick...but not an absolute rule.  When you under-expose you naturally lose some contrast and clarity.  Usually you want to fix this with PP exposure compensation, which not only brightens the highlights but also adds clarity/contrast back into the image.

Sometimes I will do the opposite and over-expose, the fix with just depends on the scene.

b) For A mode, keep focal length to around 2. (for landscapes).

The TG-6 lens does loose sharpness at max zoom.  I would only use zoom if you need to compress foreground elements into your scene.  Otherwise I prefer to be zoomed out.

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MOD Smaug01
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