TG-6 Best settings for landscape photos without RAW processing

Started 4 months ago | Discussions thread
smithaa02 Regular Member • Posts: 214
Re: TG-6 Best settings for landscape photos without RAW processing

Blahdi wrote:

Thanks to all

how do I use the ND Filter - just set to Aperture priority mode?

Use aperture priority and choose the small aperture. The last/smallest aperture is actually a fake aperture setting...and actually the ND filter.

your awesome suggestions.
I have modified TG-6 to to these settings below, and now the 'test' pictures are better (see example picture below).
2 Basic Questions:
1. How do I see Peaking color in the LCD screen? Peaking color is set to Red - but don't see it anywhere ion the LCD. 2) how do I interpret the histograms (White, Red, Blue, Green and exposure histogram]
Here are my new settings:

I'm not sure...I think that is covered in the manual somewhere.

Program: P or A mode [either is used] i-enhance low - saturation = +2. [ gradation is normal. I am planning to set gradation = auto]

Gradation is tricky.  In most cases you want it off.  What auto does is in essence do shadow recovery artificially.  In some cases this can look ok...like in high dynamic scenes.  I also use gradation auto for macro to counter the shadows created by the flash.  But for landscape I prefer gradation normal (aka off...the default).

iso 100 [I try to take picture at iso 100 if possible by increasing or decreasing exposure]

You don't need to change exposure to change iso.  You can set iso directly...or you can set a max iso from the menu and/or you can set a minimum shutter speed.

wb auto

AF

3:2 picture size - yes - makes a difference.

I disagree with this.  The native sensor is 4:3...what you're doing is just cropping by using 3:2 which you can do in post anyways.  I suppose if a scene has extreme dynamic range (such as a bright sky) in special select cases it might help to use 3:2...but generally I prefer 4:3.

L-Fine

Stabilizer on

Flash off

exposure=spot

I prefer the default for landscape...but in some cases spot can be nice...especially when your subject is against a strong or weak background.

face priority = on

I keep this off...I suspect it doesn't help for landscapes.  If you do have actual faces it might help...I don't know.

iso auto shift - 100 default, 400 max

Which is ok in sunny conditions...400 in dark conditions might not be enough unless you have a way of stabilizing the camera for longer SS.

lowest ss setting - [Q: what should this setting be?]

I prefer auto.  If you were shorting a fast scene...say whitewater kayakers going down rapids you might prefer a min SS to freeze the action.  But that's dangerous...the camera only has two aperture settings...so a fast SS will simply mean more iso noise...or an under-exposed image.

noise filter off

noise red = off

keep warm color = off

In some cases "keep warm color" can look ok.  Usually "man made objects" (buildings/bridges/etc...) look nice with this setting.  While natural objects (trees/grasses/water) look better without it.  I don't think it is a WB setting per say...rather I think it just boosts the saturation of the reds in the image.

Tips to take picture:
a) modify exposure (using wheel) such that the picture is not overexposed anywhere.

That quick exposure wheel is awesome.  Under-exposing with the TG-6 is a great trick...but not an absolute rule.  When you under-expose you naturally lose some contrast and clarity.  Usually you want to fix this with PP exposure compensation, which not only brightens the highlights but also adds clarity/contrast back into the image.

Sometimes I will do the opposite and over-expose, the fix with dehaze...it just depends on the scene.

b) For A mode, keep focal length to around 2. (for landscapes).

The TG-6 lens does loose sharpness at max zoom.  I would only use zoom if you need to compress foreground elements into your scene.  Otherwise I prefer to be zoomed out.

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MOD Smaug01
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