19mm PC what?

Started 2 months ago | Discussions thread
OP ExpatSooner New Member • Posts: 23
Re: 19mm PC what?

Flashlight wrote:

ExpatSooner wrote:

i really appreciate all the help I’ve gotten here.

OK, one from me:

It's important for straight verticals right out of camera that the camera is exactly level. The go-to method for this is to use a water level but those sold for photography are small, hard to read and notoriously inaccurate.

The easiest is when you can see the horizon, just aim the center focus point at the horizon. Then the camera is level.

Suppose you're in front of a building and the street is level (which happens here in the Netherlands more than in other places around the world) and your camera is on a tripod at eye level. You then aim the center focus point at the entrance door in the building at the place where your eyes would be if you were standing in front of that door. This will give you a very accurate leveling of the camera, as you use a a very long reference path, much longer than the short photo water level. If your camera is lower, like at hip level, aim where your hip would be when in front of the building.

If the street is not level you can use your own in-built organ of balance by just looking at the scene to guess where your eyes or hip would be when standing at the building. This is usually, certainly with practice, more accurate than using a small water level.

If you're indoors set up the camera at the desired height and place your finger on your body (typically hip) where the center of the lens is. Then walk to the opposite wall and mark the height where you have your finger with a yellow post-it or something. Go back to the camera and aim the center focus point square at the post-it. (And don't forget to remove the post-it )

When either of the above is done use the shift function on the lens to frame the building / interior as desired.

This way you can create an almost perfectly leveled image, the only thing to do in post is to correct for the small but inevitable perpendicular rotation of the image, as that is most accurately done in post on the monitor.

Ok. Quick question. When I got the L bracket I got it for the D850. I wanted to use the highest MP camera I have to shoot landscapes and architecture. Is the virtual horizon in the D850 accurate enough? The RRS BH-55 also has a very small bubble level which I look at when setting up the shot. It shows I’m ok too but I’m not sure if I should trust these measurements. The streets in my little Asian mountain town are anything but level. Nineteenth century cobblestones abound which doesn’t make it easy to get the tripod level.

On another note when I was out shooting the other night somehow I got the lens barrel turned around 180 degrees. I started the night with the nameplate facing the prism but at the end of the night it was facing down and I was looking at the “Made in Japan” on the bottom of the barrel. When I rotate the lens on the body the gold nameplate is facing off to the left. I don’t know how it happened and I don’t know how to get it back the way it was at the beginning. No, I didn’t drop it and I didn’t dismount the lens all night which makes this doubly frustrating.

Seriously, thank everyone who has helped me in this thread. It’s a fun lens to use and I’m looking forward to getting good with it.

 ExpatSooner's gear list:ExpatSooner's gear list
Nikon D3S Nikon D5 Nikon D850 Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR Nikon AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8G ED +15 more
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