Exposure settings for BIF

Started 2 months ago | Questions thread
Makingtrax Contributing Member • Posts: 836
Re: Exposure settings for BIF
1

kunalchak wrote:

Morris0 wrote:

kunalchak wrote:

Morris0 wrote:

You have subject in frame and sharpness down and those are the hardest parts for BIF. Spot metering requires you to keep a small focus point on the subject and very few people can do this and I'm not one of them. There are two approaches that most people use.

- Use the Metering Mode Multi (Matrix on other camera brands) with expose compensation. +1 EV works well for a typical bright blue sky with the sun behind you. On a cloudy day or if there is haze you may need to up the exposure compensation. As you are using a mirror-less camera you can see your exposure in the viewfinder and adjust the compensation as necessary. I usually use aperture priority shooting wide open yet you can let what ever you like. As you are using shutter priority allowing the ISO to vary is popular (auto ISO). There are challenges to using this method. As your subject moves it may go from front light to back and this requires a change in the exposure compensation. This is most obvious if there is haze or clouds. Also, if the background changes because the subject has become lower enough to have terrain or foliage behind it exposure compensation will not be needed except if it's white. That will be a separate discussion.

- Use manual exposure. This might sound hard yet it's quite simple on a day with even light. On a sunny day you can chose any Sunny 16 equivalent exposure. You can point your camera at a blue sky with the sun at your back and adjust till the exposure is neutral. You can also meter off the palm of your hand winch is a perfect 20% gray no matter what race. Natural foliage will also work. Once your camera is set like this you can forget about exposure, it will be perfect unless the lighting changes due to a cloud or shadow on your subject. If you learn to adjust your shutter speed or ISO based on clouds or shadows this will produce the most consistent results.

I use both of the above methods depending on conditions and my mood.

White subjects need special attention. Typically you need to use -1 EV for a white bird so if using the first method you would use +0 EV. In manual exposure you must dial this change in to your shutter speed or ISO. With practice you can make these changes very quickly and with the dials on the top of our Fuji cameras it's a joy to make the change.

Have fun!

Morris

Thanks shall try. So the main idea is to keep the histogram in the centre, right?

No, you need to forget the histogram and pay attention to the subject's brightness. On a cloudy day this may require clipping highlight detail in the sky. If you want to protect this then expose the histogram all the way to the right and and bring up the shadows in post processing. More advanced would be to use fill flash. Don't go there yet, you need to get your exposures correct first.

Morris

Hi,

I worked on the setings.. Made some adjusments. Used Matrix / multi-mode, EC..Shutter Priority, Auto ISO. Some pics . Multi-cloloured sky...Overcast / blue/ grey. Windy weather..Slight editing done in CaptureOne. In-camera sharpness set to 0

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Nice shots. Not missing your focus is one of the hardest parts of BIF and you seem to have nailed that. Exposure is the easy part. As I said in my other post, shoot manual. You know you want to shoot wide open, you pretty much know your shutter speed . . dial them both in and you've only got ISO to decide. A couple test shots and you're good to go. Then forget your exposure. With weather/sky conditions like this it's really not worth using Auto modes. Get the camera decisions out of your way.

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Steve

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