Quick manual outdoor macro stacks of living insects

Dear macro friends

In these days, I've managed a few quick outdoor stacks of living insects. The topic was recently discussed.

My principle is that I consider myself as an observer. It is not allowed to harm the insect in any way. I leave it where it is. No fridge, no cooling spray, etc.

This is my equipment and best practice (which still develops):

• My camera is a Fujifilm X-T20 (probably not so important what Fuji model exactly - but that one happens to be my camera, and I love it). So, I have no IBIS; however, I think the greater problems in outdoor stacking are wind (unbelievable - even on the sunniest day!) and moving subjects (bugs!). You see, I also have no auto bracketing function, but if I had it, I couldn't use it anyway with my manual macro lenses.
• My lenses are the Laowa 65 mm f/2.8 APO 2:1 Ultra Macro (this lens is just amazing; here's a collection of threads on the Laowa 65 mm lens) and the Laowa 25 mm f/2.8 2.5:1-5:1 Ultra Macro. I use the latter with a Fotodiox Pro adapter w/ detachable tripod mount.
• In almost all cases, I use the 65 mm at f/5.6 and the 25 mm at f/4. These are the sweet spots or at least close to.
• For stacking, I don't use a flash. Just daylight. So it's good not to stop down too much not only to avoid diffraction (.... yes I know this is a potential discussion topic ...) but also to get enough light! Don't forget, with increasing magnification, the light loss due to the effective aperture comes more and more into play.
• I usually try to get 1/250 s. Ideally, shorter, of course.
• I accept maximum ISO 3200; ideally, way less, of course.
• If I cannot make this, I underexpose a few f-stops (of course there's a limit to everything) and recover the missing f-stops with darktable. With darktable, I use LUTs to emulate the Fujifilm styles. My standard style is Provia. I add +1 sharpness on the X-T20 resp. a bit of sharpness in darktable.
• I use ES to avoid shutter shock.
• I use a cable release.
• For quick outdoor stacks, I use my 40 years old Novoflex Castel rail. This is the quickest method. I do no calculations of the ideal step width - I just gently turn the wheel in very small steps, wait a few secs until the system steadied and take the image. I routinely use my Castel down to 2:1.
• I started w/ the free Picolay from Prof. Dr. Heribert Cypionka which is really not bad but one day bought Zerene Stacker. I usually calculate both, PMax and DMap; in the end, I mostly choose the DMap because PMax often delivers too harsh images. But - there is no general rule.
• I just get out and try it when I have a little time (time is always a limiting factor for hobbies) and am ready to throw unsuccessful stacking series into the garbage can. Reasons for an unsuccessful stack are an unexpected wind gust - unexpected clouds during a series - or, of course, a bug that suddenly starts to move. It is incredible how lively the aphids are - you don't see this without magnification!
• Bottom line: Playing a complex Bach fugue on the piano is a greater challenge (at least for me) than stacking a living insect

Here are my sample photos. They are also on 500px but there is no magnifying glass. C&C welcome!

Manual stack, 18 frames, Fujifilm X-T20, Laowa 65 mm f/2.8 APO Ultra Macro at 2:1 magnification, ISO 640, 1/250 s, images OOC, Provia, Zerene stacker.

Ladybird larva during molting, manual stack, 28 frames, Fujifilm X-T20, Laowa 65 mm f/2.8 APO Ultra Macro at about 1.3:1 magnification, ISO 3200, 1/250 s, images OOC, Provia style, Zerene stacker.

Ladybird larva more or less after molting, manual stack, 33 frames, Fujifilm X-T20, Laowa 65 mm f/2.8 APO Ultra Macro at 2:1 magnification, ISO 2000, 1/250 s (deliberately underexposed about 2 steps), raw files developed w/ darktable, Provia style (Stuart Sowerby's LUT), Zerene stacker.

Aphids (Aphis fabae) and exuvias, manual stack, 27 frames, Fujifilm X-T20, Laowa 25 mm f/2.8 Ultra Macro at 5:1 magnification, ISO 800, 1/120 s, images OOC, Provia style, Zerene stacker.

Kind regards,

Martin