If you know to use it it will amaze you.

Meebers wrote:

rurikw wrote:

Congrats on your purchase. I have all 3 Merrills I shoot mostly b&w so don't have to deal with much of the quirks. Got them for 1 030 € which I consider a bargain (though I missed an even better one).

The IQ is stunning: acutance, seemingly total lack of noise (at ISO 100 anyway). The biggest problem I have with them is the fixed screen as I rarely shoot eye level. Looking for a suitable way to attach a hinged mirror to the tripod mount or maybe there is a better way?

The histogram on my DP3M is totally nuts. I've even found myself consulting sunny 16 to see if the exposure is in the ballpark. Guess I will just go with the meter and add compensation according to subject. Chimping is the only place where the slowness gets annoying so better just bracket. Usually the exposures turn out just fine.

Have read that the Sigmas have low DR but I find the files quite flexible. I use SPP only to make sure the wtong highlights don't blow and other minor tweaking of lightness, rest in PS. That way it's not particularly time consuming. Can often batch process (it pays to try getting reasonably consistent exposure). I find the controls and menus very well thought out. Though I love the minimalistic design, I have added an L bracket+grip to each one.

The FL range is rather limited, particularly the 2 and 3 are a bit close together. Wonder if there's a decent tele converter. I know there's a Ricoh wide converter that gets the 1 down to about 19mm equivalent IIRC.

I really am starting to love the dp2m. I'm not sure if this is a sigma thing or not but the LCD doesn't reflect correct exposure if it's in Manual mode. I can shoot on f16 and it will look like f2.8 on the lcd. I'm already thinking of getting the sd Quattro and start playing with different lenses. I bought one of those eye viewfinders and may try and justify the cost of a Voigtlander 40 mm viewfinder. Have you tried any long exposures?

Checked mine, same thing. Never noticed before since I'm always in A mode which does give some visual clue. OTOH never put much weight on the appearance of the image on the LCD as it's just a coarse approximation anyway. The histogram is what I go by on most of my cameras (which sadly lack live blinkies/zebras). But as I said, on the 3 at least I've felt the need to check against my experience of how much +/-compensation is appropriate for a certain scene and/or bracket. No, never tried long exposures. Would be interesting.