Quick way to get rid of blue tones on white background/shadows?

Started 4 months ago | Discussions thread
Sailor Blue
Sailor Blue Forum Pro • Posts: 15,527
Re: Quick way to get rid of blue tones on white background/shadows?

I agree, it is chromatic aberration caused by your lens. Your post processing software should be able to get rid of it, or at least dramatically reduce it.

Auto WB is great if you are in an environment where the WB of the lighting is changing all the time. If your lighting is fixed then it is nothing but trouble.

Put a red subject up against a black background and take a shot with Auto WB. Auto WB will see all that red and not nearly as much blue or green and increase the WB color temperature, adding blue and green to the subject. Do it for a blue subject and the opposite happens with Auto WB, added red and some green.

In either of the above cases the subject colors will be wrong.  You can fix the color in post but it is easier to just get it right to begin with by using the correct fixed WB.

Get yourself a cheap WB card and use that to set a Custom WB in your camera. Doing this will eliminate a lot of hassle in post by giving your colors that are as close to those of the subject as possible for images from your camera.

B&H - Porta Brace White Balance Card WBC

Every camera sensor has color biases, every lens has a tint, and every software editor has color biases. If you want even more accurate colors then use a X-Rite color checker target to color calibrate your camera and lens combination. This will eliminate color biases from the camera sensor, the lens, and the editing software. Unfortunately you can only do this easily if you are using Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, or On1 software.

X-Rite ColorChecker Passport – X-Rite Photo – X-Rite Passport

If you are shooting against a white background don't use that to set the Custom WB. The background may not be really white and if you use it then the WB of your product will be incorrect.

For seamless white backgrounds find the subject exposure first.

Turn on the camera's Highlight Alert.

Start with the background lights at a low enough power that the background comes out gray in a test shot. Increase the power of the background lights in 1/3 stop increments until the background just starts to blink, indicating it is overexposed.

If the entire background isn't blinking your background lighting isn't even and you can try to adjust the lights to get the entire background blinking but that usually isn't critical. As long as there is a blinking halo around the subject it only takes a couple of seconds to paint the image edges and corners pure white in post.

Don't increase the power of the background lights any more. You want the background to just barely be overexposed. If you make the background too bright the light reflecting from it onto the subject's edges can cause those edges to be overexposed and "bleed" into the background. Too bright a background can also cause broad light source lens flare that shows up as a loss of contrast in the subject image.

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